Bazmcc

My answer is still the same. What you've drawn is the exact same as what happens with the standard seal. It'll evaporate away anyway (the amount of water that will collect in that gap is insignificant). The issue with the standard seal is that it's make from very soft crap foam. If you seal it with waterproof sealant you solve the problem.

Just seal the carrier exactly where the original seal was. The excess water will run out the bottom of the door through the drain holes like it was originally designed to do.

Yes use rivnuts if you can.

The rotation is something which has to move as the car moves up and down too through so it's not critical. It's a crap design. Not to mention the fact that the jacked up position is a long way off what the static normal height and angle of the wishbone will be. Getting away from the console bush thing, I have 2 new cupra bushes in and there's no clicks , clunks, or knocks over bumps or humps in the road.

So the console bush? There's just a back and front on a cupra bush.

I take the entire driveshaft out when I need to work on any part of it. I always pop the driveshaft out of the hub if the ball joint or wishbone has to be disconnected, Which bushes were put in upside down?

New wishbones, Cupra rear bush and poly front bush. No play in the wheel bearing. The inner CVs and Wheel bearings are the only things I haven't changed.

Has anyone had any issues with inner CVs on a VRS? I've had a progressively worsening noise coming from the left side of the car and I think it's the inner CVs. Basically when I take off from a stop I get 3-4 loud clicks. Not clunks, clicks. Then when I slow down to stop I get 3-4 loud clicks again. It happens every time. Not when I'm driving, just when the car is speeding up or slowing down. The outer CV is new, the engine mounts are new, all bolts are torqued, ball joints and track rod ends are new, drop links are new, etc etc etc you get the idea. The clicking is driving me nuts. Checked the brakes and nothing seems to move their either. What other inner CVs are the same as the fabia 6 speed ones? I have a service to do and another CV boot on the drivers side to change so I might as well try and sort everything at once.

The same god damn clicking noise that annoys me on every drive I do in the car. As I take off from stopped.... Click, click click click. As I slow down to stop..... click click click click. it doesn't continue as I'm driving, just 3 or 4 clicks each time on launch and slow down. it even clicked when I started the car a couple of days ago. Only thing I haven't changed is the inner CVs and the wheel bearings. It seems to be predominantly from the front left. has anyone got the same issues? Has anyone fixed the same issues?

Nope, i'm happy enough with the oem badge on there. I just stuck the steering wheel on temporary as i lent my standard wheel to a mate who's wheel had got a bad rip in it. It makes a hell of a difference to The driving experience.

Quick couple of pics. An R32 steering wheel and the black faux suede pillars have been sorted.

I must have seen this scenario dozens of times after a new turbo was fitted. In every case it's because the garage fitting the turbo didn't know how to set up the actuator and didn't bother their ass testing the car or even checking the actuator and map duty cycle. I'd be surprised at a dealer not checking it. But then again, they get a turbo back from a refurb and assume they don't need to set it up.

Turned out pretty good. Need to get it fitted over the weekend if I get time.

For more than half of those miles yes.

My car is on 160Kish on it's original turbo.

So your turbo is fine but you want to know if you should replace it? 50K my arse. Who is the 'VW specialist' so we can avoid them? P.S. there has to be slight play in the thrust bearing and shaft so the oil can flow around it. As long as it's not spraying oil out it's fine.

Forgot to ask. Are the genuine Xenons Hella, Bosch, or other?

Awesome. Thanks for checking that out. At least I know I can get one now. Just need to see if the dealer sells it or if I have to go elsewhere.

I'll have a look at it if the weather is reasonable over the weekend. I'd probably go with 2" stainless pipe. I have a mate who can TIG them together if I need that done. I have a few bits of spare pipe and stuff laying around. Ideally I'd be trying to leave only the weak points in the system being the connections to the intercooler, just because the ends are plastic.

Not an impact gun for this one. See this thread: http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/55809-public-service-announcement-jom-coilovers-knocking-not-terminal/

Yes they were torqued to spec and then given an extra half turn just to make sure. The only suspicion I have over that bolt is that the hole in the subframe which it goes through may have got mis-shapen and there's a chance that the bolt may be able to just move a tiny amount. I might just put a camera under the car at some stage to check it. An alternaive method to fixing it would be a tack weld on the bolt to the subframe. If I do discover that's the problem i'll weld a washer onto the subframe so the hole is round again.

Is the rear wiper seal persished? or there at all?

1 silicon coupler on each section should be enough to cover the flexing. I think the reason we have so many pipe problems is because there's too much movement, hence the lugs wearing off the couplers.

Seepage from the egr means it's either a bit blocked up or the diaphagm has split. You can do a vac test to check the seal. Otherwise, just clean it out.

You have a couple of points there where you have way more joints than what's needed. I've been planning mine and the entire top section from the egr flange to the coupler on top of the intercooler will be one piece. You seem to be using 4 parts there like the standard system. Same with the bottom section. you can go with a single hard pipe between the intercooler coupler and the turbo outlet pipe. The less joints you have the less problems you have. Don't forget you'll have the cost of 2 T bolt clamps for every coupler and connector between pipe sections and one more at each end. The less pieces you have, the less clamps you need.