gfinneran

Jamie you might be better off looking in the Passat B5.5 forums there is tumbleweeds blowing through here, use a multi meter to check power and continuity, It's either: - the fuse - the resistor - the motor - the switch - the wiring in between those parts.

'Water Ingress Problem'........SOLVED! - Skoda Superb Mk I - BRISKODA As a new owner read this thread cover to cover and check all the possible water entry points and repair them asap, you will have cheap reliable motoring. S0054190020-Maintenance.pdf

Mine just broke the 400,000 km mark during the week, its a 2005 1.9Tdi AVF 130 Auto Elegance top Irish spec car, I have owned it since 2012 and put 250,000 km of those on it, though a lot less per week in the last year with covid lockdowns! Its had the usual water ingress issues, door locks replaced, rebuilt the alternator, a couple of cv joints each side, shocks all round, full suspension arms up front, multiple tie rod ends, heater core leaking which was a dash out job to replace not difficult just time consuming and help needed to do it. I have had the egr and intake off to clean them out but everything on the engine is still original. Reverse started slipping around the 200k mark and just after I had replaced the fluid, so I have lived with it that way since and not changed the fluid since, just careful where i park avoiding having to reverse up inclines etc, I think its the reverse drum issue but i am not spending 1500 to fix it and will drive it till its unusable, all forward gear changes are smooth and no issues. Used car prices are going up here with the import tax changes following Brexit so I think I will run it on till till its demise, with their weak points addressed and the 1.9tdi 130 engine they will go a long time, considering it is almost a 30 year old design originating with the B5 Passat in the 90s . I know a lot of the old heads on here have moved on to greener pastures but who else has a high mileage superb still working away daily?

As above fill slowly till it starts to come back out the filler hole, make sure the car is level, as these cars go it is a cheap fix for piece of mind, the output shafts on the gearbox can leak at the seals, if you use the search function it will throw up some threads.

Definitely worth doing if never done should help the shifts especially when cold, MAKE SURE you can open the filler plug before draining should be hex possibly a 17mm for both plugs, use the correct oil from Skoda/VW, they will be able to give you the capacity figure, make sure the car is level when you are draining/filling and add the oil slowly until it starts to come out the filler. The clutch uses brake fluid and is unrelated, I would leave the clutch to a professional unless you have the skills they are not easy to bleed and generally dont need work unless there is air in the system or the clutch master is faulty. Clutch wear is dependent on driving style, but should last longer than that unless there is a parts failure.

'Water Ingress Problem'........SOLVED! - Skoda Superb Mk I - BRISKODA +1 for jimbof's call read this from start to finish my money is on corrosion in the wiring, convenience module soaked in water under the carpet

Passat from 1996-2005 B5/B5.5 should fit cross check the part numbers.

Try banging the door near the lock while pressing the lock/unlock button it might be enough open it, if you do get it open disconnect the electrical plug in the going through the rubber bellows from the B pillar to the door, this will alllow you to lock/unlock manually until you have a chance to replace the lock mechanism, they are available on ebay they are common problem cracked solder joints.

Nice job, you really like a toasty seat!

Make sure you fix all the areas of water ingress properly or all your hard work will will be wasted, there should be lots of these in junk yards these days for parts, not sure that you will be able to get the value out of 300hp as even with the best original engines 130 AWX, AVF they are a cruiser not a car that handles well on the twisty stuff because of their size and nose heavy weight distribution. It looks the part, use the search function to sort out the issues, its quiet in here the last few years but there is great info in the archive.

Read this thread from start to finish, it sounds like a corrosion in wiring issue, could be the drivers door lock, convenience module is under the carpet and will be the first to be affected with the water intrusion.

Steering rack bolts loose? There are a total of 3, Two visible from the top (one under the battery, need to remove) from memory they are 12 sided 10mm bolts (get the right socket and extensions to reach) and one from underneath. Google loose steering rack bolts Passat B5.5 and you will get some hits.

Have you load tested the battery? They can cause issues as they get weaker, get the correct spec battery from a decent manufacturer if it needs replacing. Test the glow plugs if they haven't been done they will need replacing. Test the output of the alternator to make sure it is charging the battery as it should, pay particular attention to the alternator clutch pulley as they usually only last 60-80k miles and will take out the drive belt tensioner if they fail, if the tensioner if hopping a lot a idle that will be a sign its on its way out.

Use the search function there was discussion about these pumps and related issues, very quiet in hear lately and not too many of them left running.

Hi all, I recently took a long road trip after months of local pottering around, the emissions workshop light came on a descent after a long hill pull, on for a few days then cleared itself after so many ignition cycles, came on again on my return journey and I cleared it with the laptop, and it has not reappeared since with local trips. I have checked for charge air leaks other than oil residue on the CCV pipe and the normal oil seep at the EGR nothing out of the ordinary. The exhaust has had bad fumes at idle but not smoking and mpg is down but I had put that down to the short trips, is driving and pulling well through the rev range otherwise. I changed the MAF with a new Pierburg sensor prior to the road trip, no specific issues with the old original Bosch senor other than car is 15+ years old and is coming up on 400,000km and I figured it was getting a bit tired. Has anyone had a blocked/restricted cat on one of these? 2005 1.9Tdi AVF Auto.

Sealing around will work, taking off the metal panel is more time/work, if you seal around the edge you can always remove it later if the window regulator or door locks fail both of which are common faults that require the metal panel to be removed.

B6 Bilsteins are the way to go but as Nackuk above they are a motorway cruiser not a sporty handling drive , as above the correct psi/bar pressures are on the filler flap or in the service manual, I have 225/45/17s on mine same wheels and the ride is good over everything except poor road surfaces. Read the water ingress thread stickied at the top and sort out the water leaks asap as they all leak and cause a world of hurt in corroded wiring and electrical nightmares.

Mine turned out to be a broken wire behind the drivers kick panel relay block, probably damaged when pulling the dash to replace the heater core/matrix.

These cars all leak read this thread completely too and fix it correctly, pollen filter housing seal, door regulator panel, hood release cable grommet, sunroof drains etc etc

I have the same issue left side (Passenger) main beam stopped working, as Tdi1.9 says above they are fused separately, I have no voltage at the fuse so I think the issue is between there and the headlight dipper/flasher switch will have to get the steering cover off to access the switch to check. The rest of the lights all work fine, it coincided with pulling the dash to replace a heater core/matrix so possibly related I may have pinched a wire. As far as I can see power goes from the battery to the ignition switch and from there to the dipper/flasher switch then to the fuse and out to the headlight from there, get a multimeter and a wiring diagram and go from there. Downloads available here https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do you have to pay 7 euro for an hours access but you can easily download all the PDFs related to your car not just the wiring in that time get them all while you are in there!

Hi all hope everyone is staying safe trying to get through this tough time, looking at a 2014 2.0TDI L&K Auto, what are the things to look out for, weak points, maintenance that should be done at this point? Thanks, G

Have you checked for water ingress? Any other electrical issues? Have a read of the thread at the top of the page.

Some light bedtime reading for you 😁 see the attached PDF, at your low annual mileage I would replace on time interval rather than mileage. S0054010020-Inspection_and_Maintenance.pdf

A heads up for anyone doing this job, car still ran (tandem pump able to compensate) but no sound from the pump priming when key was turned. My car 2005 1.9 Tdi AVF access was through a panel in the boot floor, made easier by folding the rear seat if you have this option. A lot of dust and dirt had accumulated on top of the pump so be prepared to vacuum this clean before you release the retaining ring. There are supply and return fuel lines with quick connectors and these are marked on the top of the pump, have plenty of rags to keep things clean. The retaining ring can be released without a special tool but obviously it is preferable to have the correct tool. I replaced with a VDO pump which comes as a complete assembly with pump and level sensor and is a direct replacement for the original factory fitment which was also VDO. This doesn't come with the seal so I reused the old one but probably better to replace that too, mark the orientation before you remove and replace in the same position. Be careful when putting it in that the level sensor does not get damaged, may require manoeuvring to work it into the correct position. Make sure the tank has 1/4 or less fuel in it and reconnect the lines and electrical connector, 3 screws holding the access cover and you are good to go. Mine lasted 14 plus years and 376,000 km so they are reliable, of course fuel quality and operating conditions will have a bearing on this.

No experience of that engine that must have been the last engine offered pre the MK2, does it have a DPF? If so I would avoid it those early dpf models were troublesome.