Greenliner1

The flat bit with the tang on is towards the top, but not quite vertical if I remember correctly, check the other lamp if you are not sure. Did SWMBO Yeti when the drivers side decided to blow just before it’s MOT (you can’t write it), luckily I have a bulb kit so a quick swap out. Easy job especially compared to the DRLs which require a fingertip contortion act!

All sorted! The hose that runs through the top left bellows had split resulting in a water leak when operating the rear wash (nothing seen in boot) and breaking of two cores next to it as it became a point of flexing. Water had also contaminated the plugs further down the loom resulting in bad connections / corrosion on the wiring to the tailgate. A good auto electrician by me found this out and replaced the broken wires, replaced the section of washer tube (so no connectors inside the bellows) and sorted out the plugs / sockets. All working again and major boot issues narrowly avoided. On reflection the only external tell-tale of this happening is that the rear washer jet sort of drained down after use, dribbling on after use. I initially put this down to old age (from personal experience 😀) but it was a sign that the pipe was leaking and air was getting in after use. So if you see similar be warned to get it sorted sooner than later to minimise damage.

Thanks, I’m guessing as you say lots of trim off. I’ll get the wooden spoons back out! My friend has done similar repairs on a Superb and tells me the loom is tightly bound. We’ll see soon enough. I suppose it’ll depends on what I find to the extent of repair needed, fingers crossed.

After a bit of prodding this evening it appears to be a broken wire or wires in the top left hand loom flex. Now all I’ve got to go is work out how to access the break and repair / replace the loom. I can’t leave it for too long as there’s a risk of further breaks and possible shorting / failure of other boot parts.

@Forty45 I’ve changed the boot latch too previously when the white plastic worm drive sheared (common issue), the latch is the easy bit, and as you say the unclipping is the issue. I used wooden spoons😀 Everything worked OK after. Again it’s accessing the parts without stripping the car to pieces or snapping plastic tabs off. I’m an electrical / electronic engineer by trade but cars are something else…

Same issue last night, no boot lights but removable / rechargeable lamp comes on very dimly so connection to boot lock ground seems OK. Glove box light working, but no live at boot lights. Earth OK. Can’t see the diode but I suspect that it’s the culprit or a dodgy connection. Maxidot can’t see boot status anymore. SWMBO reported the lights flickering before failure. I don’t have the precise electrical drawing. Well you could blow me down with a feather! Just checked this morning and the light is working again and the maxidot can see it. The live to the boot light is switched on this model and the earth is permanent. The issue now is the removable torch stays dim when the boot is closed, the torch appears OK as I swapped it with the Kodiaq and it’s just the same. Now to get the torch holder out and investigate this.

Rattle came back and diagnostic found stretched chain this time round. Had it all replaced at my cost £824 after a little negotiation with my dealer who dropped the diagnostic fee, so not too bad but who wants to spend that on a part which should last much longer and was redesigned due to premature failure. SUK were sympathetic but no offer of assistance, car is too old now. Not what should happen on a 2014 car with 57k miles (the rattle started well before this but after the 5 year extended warranty ran out of course) and with a full dealer service history, no wonder they changed to a cam belt! So if you’ve a 2012 onwards 1.2 TSI engine with the redesigned chain (not the newer belt unit) then you are not immune. PS car has so far been rattle free on start up and seems a bit quieter when running.

+1^^^ I’ve had the both the boot lock fail open, (quite simple to change, hardest part is getting the boot trim off) and the filler flap lock mechanism fail to lock (stayed open luckily) after the graunchy sound, and that was very easy to change, just search the forum. Pre-emptive on the fuel filler lock would be strongly advised as I understand it can be very tricky to get open if it fails locked. The boot has an emergency release.

Just filled my Kodiaq 2.0 TSI up with Sainsbury’s fuel and surprised to see pump was marked E10, I was aware it was being introduced in September in the UK and of course the car is marked suitable for E10. I keep a log of my fuel consumption so we’ll see how it goes, but interesting about the active charcoal filter, I’ve also seen a webpage (Google translated from German) that suggested the possible higher water content may affect the life of the engine oil too resulting in more frequent oil changes.

^^^ +1 I think within 10 seconds though. I always disable Kessy this way when parked at home without fail. Works every time. You must unlock it with the key fob of course. Otherwise it’s just too easy to defeat with a relay attack. Keep safe

^ +1 He did a great job with my reversing camera.

@Blorin I’m not sure how the parking position of the wipers is done on the Kodiaq, but there must be some form of indexing in the motor (years ago on my past cars it was just a low tech switch with a diode on a maintained supply) so that the blades stop in the down position. I’m wondering if it’s to do with that kind of system. I’m aware that the wipers on the Kodiaq are more hi tech and do all the usual functions like jogging when parking and the service position etc. Perhaps it thinks the blades are not in the park position for some reason? Anyhow, hope you get it sorted, and let us know what they find, I’ve not heard of this before. Best wishes.

@chesneyville Just to add to the other posters helpful information above, I changed to the Kodiaq from an Octavia VRS estate and interestingly the OEM Octy rubber boot mat fits almost perfectly when rotated 180 degrees in my 7 seat SEL, so aside from the small side pieces it’s almost the same footprint. Hope this helps.

8 days post servicing and quite a number of sub zero days, and lots of starts, not a rattle yet. Looks like it was a dodgy filter (or fitting). I’ll be much happier after a month of cold starts with no rattle!

@Madket Thanks for the link, yes I was aware of your thread and it makes interesting reading, I hope you have it pretty much sorted. There’s lots of info for this fault on the earlier CBZ type engines, but not so much after they beefed the timing chain up in 2012 as I understand it. I don’t like to say this too soon, and have probably damned myself in doing so, but since the service (and initial rattle at the garage), it hasn’t missed a beat, and not rattled once, and it’s been pretty cold here (around zero C) so I’m rather hoping it was the filter letting back. Only time will tell, I have my fingers crossed 🤞 Good luck and thank you for your post.

@Westbury63 Thanks for the comment, well it’s logged that they did an investigation - just in case. Yes, I hate rattles and totally agree about once you hear it, but this is quite noticeable, so much so that my wife picked up on it! Seems to be quite random when it happens too, but mainly from cold. Had the video of the underneath from the dealer - looks mint - 50k easy driving. I think the car would get frightened if it went over 50mph😀 I’ll feedback if and when I get to the bottom of it. Thanks again

Well, service and MOT fine, but diagnostic for cam chain rattle - nothing found. Hopefully this means the cam chain isn’t worn or stretched. On the upside the garage didn’t charge me for this diagnostic as they didn’t find anything- which is appreciated, but on the down side it rattled a bit on starting it at the dealers to bring it home 🙁 so I don’t have much hope, all I want is it fixed, and any potential engine damage from a skipped chain being avoided. I think all I can do is monitor this now and see if it’s the same / worse / better. Theres a good VAG Independent nearby that could look at it too, so I may try them. I don’t know if there’s any particular TPI on this for a 2014 model (after cam chain issue was supposedly fixed). If at first you don’t succeed....

Going to the dealers on Friday for a service and investigation.

SWMBO Yeti is a 2014 1.2 TSI and has an occasional timing chain rattle on start up, only 50k miles. I’m thinking it may be the valve in the oil filter, but I think I’ll get the garage to check it out when it goes in for annual service next month. Perhaps when the filter is changed the fault will disappear (or not). If it’s not the filter, I was under the impression that they sorted this weakness out in 2012. As it’s intermittent (about 1 in 5 cold starts) I’m wondering if that points more to the valve in the filter or the start of more ‘classic’ timing chain failure.

Also worth checking if it has a silica bag in the header tank. They are known to burst on VW vehicles and block the heater matrix, lots of posts about it see below. Not sure if it is fitted to yours. At least the garage should be able to sort it out for you. Hope you enjoy the car.

@juan27 Thanks for detailing this fault, hopefully it will help others in the future. Great that you’ve got it sorted. Bit of a head scratcher- It really looks like some kind of liquid corrosion, though they are high current and any high resistance joint will soon get very hot and damage will occur. SWMBO has got the heated screen fitted, great this time of year. Thanks again for posting

If it’s a bulb it’s a tricky job and smaller hands are better. I’ve done both sides, follow the cable down inside the housing (the rear covers twist and come off), then pull the bulb out, costly for a replacement bulb though! My dealer wanted to remove the bumper / headlight to do it, bit of dexterity on my behalf and 10 mins, job done. The fuse box on the near side (UK) makes it much more tricky. see the below thread for some good info:

+1 revision F on actuator followed @weasley’s guide. Took about 10 mins and as weasley says, the flap hinge end will be against the bodywork as you rotate the housing out around the hinge pulling out from the latch end. Many thanks, luckily the fuel flap had failed unlocked, only found this out when testing the car locks after changing the boot lock which would not latch. Actuators appear to be a VW weak spot!

Sorry, I can see that it’s a charging station at the back of the Skoda Dealers! Is that run by the dealers and if so can you get a free recharge?😀

Very Nice! @Masternet You’ll have to let us know your impressions on the car, likes / dislikes etc. I’m sure many people are interested in your experience as am I. I can see from the photo that you picked it up from the Skoda Dealer right in Mlada Boleslav where they are produced, do you have a connection with Skoda or just a customer? It would be really interesting to see them produced, but the Pandemic I’m sure has stopped all that. Many thanks for posting.