Greenliner1

Yes, get it sorted as my Kodiaq did this to me. Luckily not too far from home for the spare key. Dealer updated software.

It looks like that switch in the boot lock is a common issue, but it was the wiring on my one. Good luck

Finally all done, it was a mechatronic plate they put in 1st time (not made clear), just changed the whole mechatronic unit this time and appears to be fixed (fingers crossed). Also changed a leaking water pump free of charge as a good will gesture which is appreciated. Took the opportunity for a minor service too which they discounted, so came good in the end.

@Tommymcg if I recall correctly it does, but when I had an issue with the boot light and the rear number plate lights I found it was broken wiring in the loom to the boot where it flexes.

Went in, different fault code. Waiting for a solution from Škoda technical. Lest see what they come up with.

And the gearbox has just gone back into emergency mode. Not sure why it should do this if they’ve changed the mechatronic unit? Anyhow back into the dealers on the 5th Feb and they’ll have some explaining to do…

Going back in 😥 MIL lamp came back so somethings not right or happy. Had no gearbox related faults so far. Booked in with tech beginning of Feb. Saga continues! Told the gearbox work carries a 2 year warranty. My All in warranty ends in May so I want everything sorted!

All done! New Mechatronic unit fitted, normal service resumed (smoother gear changes) and MIL reset.

@Evolution13 thanks for the response, its done a mere 116k miles and has a full Dealer service history and I’ve had it from new. Can’t recall when the plugs were done but it was as per schedule. The dealers checked it and it was definitely the N435 valve, and to be honest I put a code reader on too so I knew what it was before it even went to them! Happy New Year to all Briskodians 🎉

Had MIL (engine management light) appear on the dash (I haven’t seen this referred to elsewhere), taken into dealers this week and it’s the same gearbox fault N435 valve. Replacement Mechatronic had been ordered and is now in stock to be fitted on 13th Jan.

@Sailfast welcome to the forum. Sorry you are having such issues. I have a 2019 2.0 190 TSi with the 4x4 DQ381 DSG gearbox mechatronic that’s just gone faulty at 115k miles and I’ve got a slot in Jan to get it replaced under the all in extra warranty (best money I’ve spent recently!) it seems a common fault on these gearboxes and there’s lots online about it. Apart from that I had some failed front suspension bushes that had perished also covered under the all in warranty, so overall that’s not too bad, though could be costly for a common issue. The service interval for the DQ381 is 80k miles, I had my one done slightly early at 70k but that has no bearing on the fault with the box from what I read. Hope you get it sorted, I can see by your location that it’s not a quick thing to turn round.

Just had my 2nd “Gearbox in Emergency Mode” warning in 4months. Lost odd gears. Resets on powering the car down. Gearbox is definitely not as smooth as it was. All dealer serviced as spec. Garage dismissed the first one as historic, but I’ve told them now I’ve had a second I expect a resolution. 2019 2.0TSi DQ381 box on second year of the All-in Warranty (good value and insurance for this very reason) Going in to Skoda dealer in December for investigation, hopefully they’ll get a mechatronic unit on order.

I’m on my second / third set of Pirelli Scorpion Verde tyres as originally fitted (now at 105,000 miles) and the backs now have 58,000 miles on them and still 6mm tread (MOT last week), however are slightly cracking on the edges which is likely to get them before the tread wears off. Not sure if others have had the same experience with them on here, but I’m really pleased with them and the seal inside worked great when I had a roofing bolt in the front and it fixed itself when I pulled the bolt out! Im sure I’ll get accused of driving like an OAP but I don’t really!!

Update: after taking out the VW finance extended warranty deal (good value) for years 6 & 7 of ownership, I had a minor service included in it and mentioned if they could have a look at the lower arm bushes, quite expecting a similar cost to replace. Imagine my surprise when they had replaced the failed bushes under the extended warranty! Just need to get the tracking checked as the steering wheel is very slightly off which is hardly unsurprising. I could have argued it’d be part of replacing suspension components, but hey I’ve saved a bundle so a hunter 4 wheel alignment wouldn’t be a bad thing anyhow.

The Chinese video from @wen above shows the solution to cleaning them out. Not tried it myself, but it looks like removing covers in the boot to access the fixing bolts and removing the inner clusters to clean out. I’ve still got small hitchhikers in my ones. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

The Kodiaq’s just had the 57NL update after the keys were locked in the boot in my jacket. I’m not sure that I’d trust it again even after the update. It’s a good job I was only 5 miles from home and the spare keys and not 160+ miles away as I often am!

My ones reported as bushes cracking and requiring replacement at 100,000 miles after I got an independent to check for an occasional noise when loaded. Think they quoted around £750 to replace both arms OEM and re-track.

@Blackbull Just seen the post. I just pushed the button on the working key fob from the boot, but if I remember correctly you can put the flat key fob to the start button and it can scan the chip to deactivate and start the car.

My car did it with keys in the boot, I was working on site over Easter and had my key in my Jacket in the boot. Never been a problem until then. Car had locked itself after a number of hours I believe. Luckily I was only a few miles from home so my good lady brought me the spare (which was flat of course) but removed the cap on the drivers side handle and opened the door with the key blade, got the key out of the boot and deactivated the alarm. I have no idea why it decided to lock itself. Not risked it since.

Agree, coasting can be annoying, I know you can lift off the throttle quicker to stop it or dab the brakes to get back the engine braking, however I can temporarily stop coasting on my 2019 2.0 TSi by putting it into sport mode then toggling the D/S to move the drive from back from sport to normal drive and the coasting stays disabled (as it is disabled in sport mode). Again only temporarily however! I'm sure there must be other ways to achieve the same result, but worth a go if you’re finding it a PITA!

Yes too flakey for me so I didn’t renew after the first couple of years. The main reassuring feature for me was the alarm alerts, though only had the alerts for one evening after multiple alerts at a hotel found a large moth inside the car! I did like that you could see where the car was and the door / window status too as the MIL left a back door open (not unlocked but open) all evening in a very rainy night, just happened to check the app and then found the rain soaked interior….

Yes I can hear the clicking noise, but is sounds a bit louder and slightly more rhythmic than the issue I’m having. It sounds like something electro-mechanical, but what I don’t know. All I can suggest is trying different controls such as the climatronic to try to see if it stops, otherwise it’s down to detective work. Good luck and happy hunting.

@beeflyawayFirst world problem I know - but I have a ticking noise which I suspect is the climatronic passenger hot / cold flap actuator and happens when it’s about set temperature and controlling. It can be stopped by changing the passenger side temperature, but then it returns. It’s an irritating rattle / ticking that happens even when not moving. I’ve tried the recalibration procedure but to no avail. I’m hoping to get it looked at under warranty but I’m not confident they’ll sort it. Try turning the climatronic off and see if the ticking disappears.

@EnterName Yes I’ve had a couple of Mondeos in my time too, they were good motors (estate was massive) ULEZ is only of concern if you are going through the city centre, if not then not an issue or you can pay if infrequent use. I don’t think it’s been the environmental panacea they say, and all it’ll do is move emissions to the inner ring road (this bypasses the Birmingham ULEZ) for the people that live next to it to breathe in (while paying to use older cars of course) My Diesel VRS was a good motor but used to drink oil, also being Euro 5 would have been too inconvenient for me with Birmingham’s ULEZ as I’m in the city centre quite frequently. I’ve gone petrol too and the mpg is nowhere as near as good though I do enjoy the quieter cabin but miss the low down torque, strange though how the diesel prices have stayed so much higher than petrol, takes the sting out of it slightly. I guess electric is on the cards in the future but doesn’t make financial sense for me at the moment and doing lots of miles I keep reading about the infrastructure / charging horror stories a but that’s a different topic!

@Cornish_Lad I believe they are PW24W bulbs. Expensive and difficult to change. They are available as LEDs but sorry I’ve not done it as they are a swine to get to and I wouldn’t like to get errors etc. Note the bulbs dim too when indicating if I recall correctly. See this link on replacement part numbers etc. Good luck, let us know how you get on if you try it!