weasley

I’ve seen lots of info about the original dash top GPS unit and how it is obsolete and not worth it. I have a 2015 SE with the original type mounting location and blanking plate. I’d really like to use this for something modern, like a Carpuride unit. If needs be I’d just run an AUX outlet to the stereo and therefore have Apple CarPlay available for GPS, music and so on. Has anyone modified/butchered the original mount to accept something modern? I assume there is a power feed in there which could be tapped to run a new unit. Also, is there a source of the early mounts? I can’t find one anywhere.

So, after replacing the lambda sensor another error popped up within a day - this time related to the heating circuit in the same lambda sensor. I took it back and they claimed to have "rewired it" and reset the code. The error came back the same day so I took it back AGAIN. This time they ordered and fitted an OEM sensor (rather than the aftermarket one they had used) and since then it has all been OK.

Well the garage agreed with me and fitted a new lambda sensor. All sorted now! It’s nice to drive again. I’ll get it serviced next month so will get fresh oil and spark plugs.

Well it had flagged as an error on the module, so it had obviously been picked up. Maybe the bulb behind the tyre pressure warning has gone? I’ll try to remember to check when I start it next.

I have a Citigo SE from 2015. I recently had cause to use an OBDEleven to check for errors due to an engine issue. When I scanned for errors I found the engine ones but also unexpectedly found an error in the “Brakes/ABS” section. It turned out to be a low tyre pressure error. As it happens I had inflated all the tyres a couple of days before as they were all a bit low. However I never got any kind of TPMS dashboard indication - is there one? I reset the error anyway.

It did a few days ago. It has thrown two codes related to the post-cat lambda sensor. I’m having it looked at tomorrow. Fuel economy has also gone through the floor and it smells rich when idling.

OK, so the OBDEleven tells me fault P2096 - "Post Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean". Probably the lambda sensor. I've cleared the fault and will see if it comes back.

Yeah, it has a full Škoda history, including spark plugs not that long ago. I’ve ordered an OBDEleven to see what this turns up. Maybe it’s a lambda sensor - it drove home OK, albeit with the slight stumble at light throttle.

OK, so here’s the first issue with our newly-acquired Citigo SE 60PS (2015). After a 50 minute drive at motorway speeds, sat idling in a car park the CEL came one. No other symptoms and it still runs. Before this I had noticed a slight hesitancy or fluffiness at light throttle and slow engine speeds. I assume I’ll need a OBD device of some kind to interrogate the ECU? Is there are reset capability for the ECU, like pull this fuse, pump the brakes 5 times and touch your nose with your tongue?

I have been a member here for several years by virtue of a previous Yeti that i had. That was sold on a few years ago but last week I have returned to the Škoda fold as I picked up a Citigo as a family runabout and learner car for my soon-to-be-17 daughter. I now have a 2015 Citigo SE 60PS 5-door in white. I must admit I was not expecting much from it as I generally drive things with many more gadgets and much more power, but it has really endeared itself to me. It is uncomplicated, unassuming but well-built and generally just a nice thing. It has a small scrape on one bumper but other than that it is in great condition with 58k miles on the clock. It had a new cambelt at 5 years old and I have a stack of Škoda service receipts for it. So, I'm back!

Some Peugeot 205 models (most famously the GTi but also the XS I had) had factory-fitted driving lights under the front bumper. In this case though you’d probably have to create something from scratch, perhaps with a 3D printer and some aftermarket lights.

The Roomster/Fabia foglights do look like a close fit, although I can't find any evidence of anybody doing it. One question though, is what you would want these lights to do? If you use them as foglights then you'd have to disconnect the big round ones since you are only allowed two front foglights. If to be used as some kind of spotlight or 'driving light', that comes on with the main beam, then the Fabia/Roomster lights won't work without significant modification as they are focussed as foglights (ie low and wide).

This bit I assume. Not aware of any plug-and-play options.

From memory there should be no prising needed. There is a spring one end and a catch the other. You slide the body towards the spring end which should free the other end to be pulled out.

I have just been quoted over £240 just for the rear pads on my MINI. I know I could do it myself in an hour but I just don’t have an hour to do it, and it’s under warranty so needs an approved job doing.

They must be capable of showing mph or kph but it doesn’t have to be at the same time, otherwise pretty much every car with a digital dashboard is illegal! As above, it is switchable so still compliant.

I also wouldn’t write off Skoda dealers - in the past I have been pleasantly surprised how competitive their prices are.

Dipped beams are focussed to avoid dazzling. It’s a requirement of Lighting regs and the MOT.

How old is that?! It mentions CCMC PD-2; CCMC was replaced by ACEA in 1996!

Yes and no. For many years ACEA have lumped petrol and diesel specs together and many OEMs did the same (for example VW insist that 504 00 is always given with 507 00 so for a petrol engine using longlife engine oil you get the diesel cover thrown in), although in recent years we are seeing them diverge again as efficiency and emissions demands drive oil specificity for the best outcome. But for the engine and oil in question here - yeah, it's fine! It's a 5W-40 too, so you may lose a decimal point on fuel economy but it will soothe the older engine nicely. 5W-40 is permitted under the specs that the car demands (it is included in 502 00).

OK, first things first - the car will be fine. Next, some more details. VW used to allow the bundling of 505 00/505 01 and 502 00 together but a few years ago adjusted the specifications to separate the 502 00 away from 505 00/505 01, hence why you see a change to the product data sheets. Note the publication dates of the two attached above are April 2012 and August 2018 - always go with the newer one. 505 00 and 505 01 are specifically diesel engine oil specifications. 505 00 is higher ash (based on ACEA A3/B4) so is for pre-DPF engines, whereas 505 01 is lower ash (based on ACEA C3) for DPF-equipped engines. Worth noting though that 504 00 is a gasoline engine spec but is also reduced ash level and based on ACEA C3 (as it is always bundled with 507 00). 505 01 is a more robust spec than 505 00 and includes protection for PD engines, so is a robust oil and, if anything, over-engineered for the OP's Fabia. Knowing what I know I would have a word with the workshop as to why they put a diesel-specified oil in a gasoline engine to see how they react, but I'd do it knowing that the engine was fine and I'd have no qualms about leaving it in there.

Good question. In basic terms the oil is consumed in three ways: - volatility; as you say the lighter molecules evaporate and leave the engine through the crankcase ventilation, so into the intake air and burnt in the combustion chamber. This is not “burning” of oil, just evaporation. It is driven by the volatility characteristics of the base oils in use. The test used to identify, compare and control volatility is called the ‘Noack’ test, which is run at 150°C. Specifications tend to limit this to 10-13% volume loss maximum - combustion; oil gets past the piston rings and is burnt in the cylinders. Not a lot you can do about this from an oil perspective, driven almost entirely by engineering - oxidation; the oil gets hot in the presence of oxygen and is oxidised (“burnt”). The by-products of this are all sorts of things - acids, water, carbon etc. This tends to lead to oil thickening - it can be controlled by using robust base oil and antioxidants. The ratio of these is dependent on the engine, operating conditions etc but will be split mostly between volatility and combustion, with much less oxidation. The volatile components are mostly from the base oils, so this has the effect of concentrating the additives but obviously reduces the amount of fluid left to lubricate and also leads to a thicker oil. Combustion affects all of the oil and is what causes issues with DPFs as additives are burnt, forming ash which blocks the DPF (and now GPF). Topping up the oil has two fundamental benefits: the first is the increase in available volume of oil to do the job and the second is an addition of fresh additives (antiwear, detergents, antioxidant etc) to help refresh the oil. Oil change intervals are determined with all this in mind so that the oil should still be serviceable when it is finally drained and replaced.

A towing connector is 13 pin, with three of them being earth connectors.

I tend to agree - from what I can see it has at least 15 blades though; maybe something like an aftermarket towing loom?

Wheel nuts tight?