weasley

Indeed, which is why when you stated... ...I asked... Your statement was written as a fact, I was simply asking if this was a fact or an assumption. It looks like it was the latter. I have been in the oil business, specifically the research, development and technical support thereof, for over 27 years. As I said, I don’t know what Fuchs offer to Quantum, but neither, it seems, do you. You may be right - it might be the exact same stuff in the Quantum bottle as in the Fuchs one, but you can’t assume it is. I know of many similar situations where this assumption would not be true.

Believe me, I have first hand experience of this whole process and business. VW want oils that meet a specification list to offer as Quantum branded products. The supplier (currently Fuchs) provides these products but they don't have to provide the exact same ones they sell under their own brand. And having an oil meet a performance specification doesn’t mean you have to reveal what’s in it, just the performance credentials that allow you to hold the various approvals. VW’s specification is based on performance, not manufacturing. They say it has to be (say) VW 504 00/507 00, meaning it has had to pass a long list of demanding lab and engine tests. They don’t say how the oil has to be made. I don’t know if Fuchs supply the same formulations to Quantum as they sell themselves - you can’t assume they do is all I’m saying.

Yes, I absolutely can believe that because that is what happens. An oil company relies on its brand and various differentiated benefits to make a premium. They won't (necessarily) give that away to a third party who sell it effectively in competition to their own brand.

You know that for sure? Yes, Fuchs currently make the Quantum oils, but it doesn’t necessarily mean they simply repackage their own-branded stuff.

The Castrol is approved and is fine.

Just make sure the oil is ‘approved’ by VW for 507 00, rather than “meets the requirements of”, “recommended for use where” or any other similar language.

I was thinking A/C too - perhaps try switching it off and see if it changes.

AdBlue isn’t an additive. Most user manuals forbid the use of fuel and oil additives. The ‘system treatment’ is a revenue generator for the workshop.

A further consequence of water in the fluid is the increased risk of hydrolysis of the fluid - a high temperature chemical reaction which can render the fluid acidic (and thus corrosive) as well as increasing the viscosity of the fluid.

I think it's a great idea - I hadn't thought of it and will look to see if I have enough slack cable to do it next time I use the rack. I also use a D-lock and cable to secure the bikes to the rack if I know they will be left out of sight.

As said above, best to get a towbar with the proper integrated wiring module; this is then coded to work with your car: 1. Disables the rear parking sensors when a trailer or lightboard is plugged in 2. The car monitors the lightboard for bulb failure and shows an error if one fails 3. The alarm is set off if the car is locked and the trailer plug is disconnected 4. The trailer stability program is enabled, helping to correct issues with handling in the case of a skid 5. It's just plain neater and tidier than the alternative, that is a 'universal' relay kit that is often connected to the car's wiring by <shudder> Scotchloks and renders the car completely unaware that a trailer is present. In order to know which wiring loom and module you need, you need to know if your car has "Towbar preparation" fitted (this was an optional extra at the time of building the car). If it is present then there is some extra wiring running from the fusebox (in the front) to behind the interior trim in the boot. On the end of this wiring is a connector, into which you plug the trailer wiring loom and module. I had towbar prep fitted when new and later added the towing module myself. If your car doesn't have towbar prep then there is an extra bit of wiring that you have to fit from the front of the car all the way to the back. Towing module options exist for both options, you just need to know which you need. If your car has towbar prep fitted it should have the cut-out panel under the rear bumper and it will have some extra fuses in the fusebox related to towing. Once you have the rack fitted you can use it for bikes, trailers, caravans - whatever a towbar is used for! I had a removable 'bar simply because I preferred the cleaner look and no risk of catching my shins on the 'bar when not in use. Also, don't forget to tell your insurers. I did - it made no difference to my premium but at least I knew it was on record.

...or shut it in the door - the seals are thicker and more accommodating.

Xman has highlighted the situation for Quantum (don’t assume this carries across to factory-fill though). As I said early on, that would work for me.

As I said, with the inside knowledge I have, I’d be ok using Quantum. Being the official VW brand means they won’t be playing fast and loose with the specifications and approval demands. Also, just to correct a small mistake above, the 504 00/507 00 specification (to give it its full title) is not ashless, but is known as “mid-SAPS”, putting the ash level lower than the heritage oil specs but not the lowest there is.

I’ve worked in the engine oil business for 27 years, mostly in R&D. I’ve never heard of them. I just tried to find something out about them and came up pretty much blank. Quantum is the aftermarket brand of VW and is made by whichever oil brand wins the tender. It isn’t Britoil. The 504/507 specification is one of the toughest there is to achieve. You can buy a ready-made formula from one of the additive suppliers, blend it up and sell it out but even this requires a degree of overhead and upkeep. For what oil does, for how fundamentally vital it is to the operation and life of the engine, why skimp? If it was me, I’d be sending it back. I would be OK using Quantum.

I can't think of how fuel quality could affect a crankshaft sensor.

Because the MOT covers roadworthiness and safety, not legality. A vehicle can pass an MOT but still fall foul of Construction & Use regulations (I have done this - I had a motorcycle which passed an MOT with a speedo clearly smashed to bits and not working; the speedo isn’t tested in the MOT).

No; the housing is split in two with a lamp in each section.

Lets be honest, modern foglights are more decorative than functional. The foglights on my pre-FL Yeti were some of the best I have used, because they weren’t little trinkets down under the bumper.

Can you even get 15” wheels over the brakes? There’s a good chance that if they lowered it they also stiffened it, to make up for the reduced suspension travel. Whether this was in the spring rates or dampers is anyone’s guess, although I would suspect springs would be stiffer. It could also be down to unsprung mass (the wheel/tyre mostly).

I suspect a sticky level sensor.

This site shows different part numbers for pre- and post-facelift: 5LO 945 112 for pre-facelift 5LO 945 112B for post-facelift. Not sure what the difference is - might just be lens colouring or something. That's assuming we're not talking about LED units, which yours doesn't look like.

Glad to help. Just bear in mind though, anybody could look at your locks, get the number and order themselves a key, so never assume those locks are secure. If I have anything of value on the roof (usually a bicycle) that I will be leaving unattended I add a cable lock through the roof rails.

Maybe find out who actually makes the bars and see if they will do a replacement key or new lock set? Maybe these people can offer some help?

I'm a big fan of Volvo - we replaced the Yeti with a new-shape XC60 and I considered a XC40 to replace our other car, but decided having one SUV in the family was enough (so a MINI is imminently inbound). I do like the XC40 though and had it existed when we replaced the Yeti it would probably have been a real contender.