Yety

Try Machine Mart. I use their low entry Clarke CTJ1250AB 1.25 Tonne Aluminium Trolley Jack for use on my MG TF. I can get under the front spoiler and under the front subframe for a good lift on the flat face of the subframe. I also use a marine ply board for the jack wheels to move around when lifting. It has room for the 80 mm Powerflex VAG jack pad, PF3-1661, as it has a raised ridge around the circumference. I've also got another plain Powerflex pad with a flat top side for for this and general lifting. I don't use the sills for jacking on both the Yeti and MG to protect the seam sealer and underseal - but not many care/ are interested/ can be bothered about this, but that's fine as I must be old school in the literal sense I would only use the sills in an emergency to change a wheel away from home.

Paul52 got it right back in October Yes, it's not listed, but it's a VAG common platform, and it fits perfectly. The only downside is, if fitted, the floor protection plastic panels get in the way. Either make cut-outs in the panels, or remove a couple of fastenings and wiggle into position. Yes, the base is 85 mm O/D, so you have to have a suitably sized jack platform with retaining ridges, as urethane is quiet "slippy". Even Powerflex make a point of protecting the seam sealer, which may not sound very exciting, but when the metal is exposed, water can wick between the welded layers of steel by capillary action and start rot in the sill seam - not good. As you say, what do you believe on the internet, good luck in jacking your Yeti up

My MG TF is the opposite. The OEM jack takes the load on the three part welded sill seam as other cars. On the MG there is a central thicker web, the two outer parts are the floor pressing and the outer sill of thinner material. I don't jack on the sill, but on both front and rear subframes which are comparatively sturdy and have nice flat jacking surfaces. For the Skoda I use the front subframe, and a flat patch just in front of the rear trailing arm location, leaving the sill seams to the mercy of tyre fitters and my local Skoda agent. In the summer months I renew the seam sealer where destroyed to preserve them.

Absolutely right. There is a lot of confused stuff out there, but when you get down and look along the line of the sill with the OEM jack in the correct position, you can clearly see that the welded sill seam does not take the weight, but does indeed take the weight on the corner of the floor as it meets the sill. The "claw" merely locates the position and takes no load on the welded seam. I must be lucky as at 76 I'm still able to wriggle about under a car out in the road Everyone to their own, but I prefer to preserve/maintain the seam sealer to protect the long term integrity of the three part welded seam frpm corrosion - you do what you think is best/ most practical.

Goodness me In my Owners manual: Yeti anglicky 11.2011. S905610.05.20. 5LO 012 003 FD - page 212, it says: " Position the lifting jack by selecting the jacking point which is closest to the wheel to be removed - (fig 169). The jacking point is located directly below the marking on the plastic cover of the lower sill. Position the lifting jack below the jacking point and move it up until it's claw is positioned directly below the vertical web of the lower sill. Align the lifting jack so that the it's claw grasps the web (fig 170) at the right at the level of the marking on the plastic cover of the lower sill" I really can't see the problem. Most people probably just ram a jack anywhere they like on the welded seam which is fine - except for the damage to the seam sealer as mentioned several times before. Even Skoda dealers are pretty brutal in raising vehicles - time cost money.

As said above, easy swop. The new badge is plastic, and free from any sort of corrosion.

Just had a closer look this morning while checking levels - it seems I have heated jets fitted already. We did not specify heated jets when ordering, but they are there. No wiring, just jets that work as intended. +/- 45 ohm each, making 3.24 w each. I also removed the sound deadening pad, which is easy as the clips only need squeezing together with you finger nails to remove. I'm thinking about making up a little harness to come out through the washer tube grommet. The only problem is I'm unsure how to find an ignition live feed. I understand that a feed is available from below 10*C - but anything complicated would be beyond me on a CANBUS vehicle. I think the exterior air temperature sensor is low down on the N/S, but there must be some output from the ECU? somewhere to feed the washer jets - possibly too complicated to retro-fit, certainly for me. I might fit a simple manual switch to power up on cold days.

Misunderstanding here then - you didn't have a MG F or TF, but refer to the fact that Yeti' s have a switch, and yes, I have my Yeti door mirrors normally switched off as well

Well, that's a first! As said above, they are on permanently with the ignition, there is no switch. Both the "F" and the "TF" had this "feature", which model did you have?

Thanks, yes saw that, I only looked under the bonnet to top up the washer fluid and noted my comments above in a flash - that parts looks easy. If I were to fit, which I'm not, I don't have coding stuff so that's out. I'm not keen on straggling wires unless they can be say sleeved with an existing cable run. It would be nice if there was a blank plug/socket with an ignition feed on that side of the engine compartment. VAG plugs/sockets are easily available - but it doesn't look at first glance if there is a suitable ignition fed source. For the small advantage for me, it's not worth the effort.

The heated door mirrors on my MG are permanently live - now 18 years old and 95k and no problem at all - (mirrors are Metro parts bin items!)

You might have noticed that the washer jets aren't in their usual place on the bonnet skin - they are under the edge on the bonnet support pressings. A gentle wiggle (care in the cold with plastic fastenings) and the jet assy pops out. No glue or clips. There is also a pre-formed grommet cable access formed and blanked off in the washer tube grommet. Looks like just cutting the blanking end off and a cable can be fed through to the washer jet areas. You can see all this within 30 secs of opening the bonnet! No idea where the feed is located - but I'm sure you can suss that out. Looks like the option to heat the jets is already part provisioned.

But you didn't say that in answer to the question if you had a heated windscreen you automatically had heated washers - so really you may, or maybe not, have heated nozzles

You probably mean "newer" models - my factory fit heated front screen doesn't have heated windscreen/headlight washers.