Yety

Try Machine Mart. I use their low entry Clarke CTJ1250AB 1.25 Tonne Aluminium Trolley Jack for use on my MG TF. I can get under the front spoiler and under the front subframe for a good lift on the flat face of the subframe. I also use a marine ply board for the jack wheels to move around when lifting. It has room for the 80 mm Powerflex VAG jack pad, PF3-1661, as it has a raised ridge around the circumference. I've also got another plain Powerflex pad with a flat top side for for this and general lifting. I don't use the sills for jacking on both the Yeti and MG to protect the seam sealer and underseal - but not many care/ are interested/ can be bothered about this, but that's fine as I must be old school in the literal sense I would only use the sills in an emergency to change a wheel away from home.

Paul52 got it right back in October Yes, it's not listed, but it's a VAG common platform, and it fits perfectly. The only downside is, if fitted, the floor protection plastic panels get in the way. Either make cut-outs in the panels, or remove a couple of fastenings and wiggle into position. Yes, the base is 85 mm O/D, so you have to have a suitably sized jack platform with retaining ridges, as urethane is quiet "slippy". Even Powerflex make a point of protecting the seam sealer, which may not sound very exciting, but when the metal is exposed, water can wick between the welded layers of steel by capillary action and start rot in the sill seam - not good. As you say, what do you believe on the internet, good luck in jacking your Yeti up

My MG TF is the opposite. The OEM jack takes the load on the three part welded sill seam as other cars. On the MG there is a central thicker web, the two outer parts are the floor pressing and the outer sill of thinner material. I don't jack on the sill, but on both front and rear subframes which are comparatively sturdy and have nice flat jacking surfaces. For the Skoda I use the front subframe, and a flat patch just in front of the rear trailing arm location, leaving the sill seams to the mercy of tyre fitters and my local Skoda agent. In the summer months I renew the seam sealer where destroyed to preserve them.

Absolutely right. There is a lot of confused stuff out there, but when you get down and look along the line of the sill with the OEM jack in the correct position, you can clearly see that the welded sill seam does not take the weight, but does indeed take the weight on the corner of the floor as it meets the sill. The "claw" merely locates the position and takes no load on the welded seam. I must be lucky as at 76 I'm still able to wriggle about under a car out in the road Everyone to their own, but I prefer to preserve/maintain the seam sealer to protect the long term integrity of the three part welded seam frpm corrosion - you do what you think is best/ most practical.

Goodness me In my Owners manual: Yeti anglicky 11.2011. S905610.05.20. 5LO 012 003 FD - page 212, it says: " Position the lifting jack by selecting the jacking point which is closest to the wheel to be removed - (fig 169). The jacking point is located directly below the marking on the plastic cover of the lower sill. Position the lifting jack below the jacking point and move it up until it's claw is positioned directly below the vertical web of the lower sill. Align the lifting jack so that the it's claw grasps the web (fig 170) at the right at the level of the marking on the plastic cover of the lower sill" I really can't see the problem. Most people probably just ram a jack anywhere they like on the welded seam which is fine - except for the damage to the seam sealer as mentioned several times before. Even Skoda dealers are pretty brutal in raising vehicles - time cost money.

As said above, easy swop. The new badge is plastic, and free from any sort of corrosion.

Just had a closer look this morning while checking levels - it seems I have heated jets fitted already. We did not specify heated jets when ordering, but they are there. No wiring, just jets that work as intended. +/- 45 ohm each, making 3.24 w each. I also removed the sound deadening pad, which is easy as the clips only need squeezing together with you finger nails to remove. I'm thinking about making up a little harness to come out through the washer tube grommet. The only problem is I'm unsure how to find an ignition live feed. I understand that a feed is available from below 10*C - but anything complicated would be beyond me on a CANBUS vehicle. I think the exterior air temperature sensor is low down on the N/S, but there must be some output from the ECU? somewhere to feed the washer jets - possibly too complicated to retro-fit, certainly for me. I might fit a simple manual switch to power up on cold days.

Misunderstanding here then - you didn't have a MG F or TF, but refer to the fact that Yeti' s have a switch, and yes, I have my Yeti door mirrors normally switched off as well

Well, that's a first! As said above, they are on permanently with the ignition, there is no switch. Both the "F" and the "TF" had this "feature", which model did you have?

Thanks, yes saw that, I only looked under the bonnet to top up the washer fluid and noted my comments above in a flash - that parts looks easy. If I were to fit, which I'm not, I don't have coding stuff so that's out. I'm not keen on straggling wires unless they can be say sleeved with an existing cable run. It would be nice if there was a blank plug/socket with an ignition feed on that side of the engine compartment. VAG plugs/sockets are easily available - but it doesn't look at first glance if there is a suitable ignition fed source. For the small advantage for me, it's not worth the effort.

The heated door mirrors on my MG are permanently live - now 18 years old and 95k and no problem at all - (mirrors are Metro parts bin items!)

You might have noticed that the washer jets aren't in their usual place on the bonnet skin - they are under the edge on the bonnet support pressings. A gentle wiggle (care in the cold with plastic fastenings) and the jet assy pops out. No glue or clips. There is also a pre-formed grommet cable access formed and blanked off in the washer tube grommet. Looks like just cutting the blanking end off and a cable can be fed through to the washer jet areas. You can see all this within 30 secs of opening the bonnet! No idea where the feed is located - but I'm sure you can suss that out. Looks like the option to heat the jets is already part provisioned.

But you didn't say that in answer to the question if you had a heated windscreen you automatically had heated washers - so really you may, or maybe not, have heated nozzles

You probably mean "newer" models - my factory fit heated front screen doesn't have heated windscreen/headlight washers.

The green jack is very workman like, very similar to many OEM emergency jacks. Heavy gauge metal, German TUV/GS marked and seems to be involved with Unipart Autoparts. If your's comes with a jack kit, why think about another - I know, you haven't got the car yet. I don't associate eBay with junk. I'm only going to use it when I might need a hydraulic trolley jack to raise suspension members to line up holes etc. Using any sill jack will most probably destroy the seam sealer at the point of contact, which is why I don't use the sills to raise the car.

Just crawled out from under my SJ as prepping for MoT test, and I see the the "discussion" raging on. May I suggest that the photos above are from two different locations - one from the front warning marker, and one from the rear. And yes, the raised moulded sign is facing down towards the road. The rear marker is +/- 85 mm in front of the rearmost drain hole, centre to centre - I can't get a more accurate measurement as it's only an electronic caliper VAG not would make a special batch of plastic sill covers with the moulded in markings missing!! By the way, my new green wind-up jack, (as advertised here!) has just turned up. I'm probably lucky as at my age I can still wriggle about under vehicles, keeps me from doing staring at the walls indoors.

Yes, there is no luminous arrow pointing out the jacking points. There has been a picture of at least the rear jacking point indication triangle in this thread of posts. I may be old and dim, but making a whole range of mountains out of a mole hill suggests to me that there are wildly different levels of mechanical aptitude/ sympathy around. If you want to jack the car just to change a wheel, it probably doesn't matter where you place the jack on the sill. More considerate owners would appreciate where Skoda made their roadside jack fit, to properly spread the load - each to their own. Of course, Skoda did not made this the most easy of jobs, bear in mind that this platform was used by many other VAG family members with no apparent problems. I don't jack on the sills, using the front subframe and the flat part behind the sill at the rear where I think the TT bits can be fitted. Good luck in your quest in spotting the elusive triangles

Aaaargh. You can see the triangle mark in the lower picture, only just in shot on the right. That drain hole is suffering from jack attack The seam sealer has broken it's surface, so it's not sealing and letting moisture in, the opposite action you are trying to prevent - metal showing - typical of what I was on about in above. Not a pleasant sight, but I guess not many care where/how they jack it up. That's why I'm keeping my car as long as I can, because I know it's strengths and weaknesses.

No - he specifically mentioned the thicker part of the sill as a drain hole, he felt for it and located the jack there. It was in the wrong place. It looked in the wrong place as well. I wasn't there with a ruler! The problem in using the drain hole is the possible squeezing together to close it off - it is a drain point so that would be no good! If not squeezing tight shut, the seam sealer is squidgy (technical term) and could move and effectively close the drain hole same result. That's why, I guess, VAG chose a point not near the drain hole. That's a good find - never seen one of those before. It has a nice flat area to butt up against the corner of the floor panel as intended and would probably spread the load more than the OEM VAG jack. I don't need one, as I use the urethane support in the link above.

The Powerflex VAG pad I mentioned above is a good fit and is easy to use. The pad mentioned in the earlier post by X19 is the wrong sort, that's why he posted. I guess the reason for taking the weight of the car on the angle of the floor pan is because the seam sealer is not disturbed - break/crush the seam sealer and let the risk of sill metal corrosion breed under the cover of what might appear to be ok. Only VAG could verify - or possibly not You can't see the jacking point, only the positional triangle on the plastic cover - the "jacking" area just looks like any bit of sill. Lie on the ground and feel for it. Good video, right jack, wrong position on the drain hole and obviously not read the owners manual - perhaps he had it upsidedown! Interwebby stuff can be a force for good or bad - you make your mind up.

You can't see the jacking point location marker moulded into the plastic sill cover just by standing at the side of the car. You have to get down on your knees, or lie flat, to see the rear marking. It is a little triangle, raised, and just in front of the second from the rear of the plastic cover holding self tappers on the horizontal part of the plastic sill cover. It is not on the sill drain hole. There are 4 components to the welded seam: a central thicker part of the body, an inner 90* bent part of the floor pan. another thinner metal panel which is really the outer sill panel, with some swaged holes, which completes the traditional sill structure. There is then a cosmetic plastic sill cover for styling/decorative effect which doubles up as protection to keep gravel rash etc damage away from the potential rust prone area of the welded sill area. To further this protection, there is a thick layer of seam sealer on both side of the welded seam, merging into the floor pan. The post above from X19 is spot on, but seems to have been ignored. The weight of the car is indeed taken on the floor pan pressing, but only at the 90* bend where it is welded together with the other bits. If you rammed a jack under the floor pan anywhere else, you distort the floor pan and get into big trouble. To understand this you have to lie on the floor and look along the line of the sill to see the profiles involved. The owners manual is correct and quiet clear, and yes they are very specific in their reasoning. I've spent some hours in recent times scraping off damaged areas of seam sealer and chasing down the first signs of surface rusting under the sealant. This has been caused by my Skoda dealer raising the car on lifts directly on the sills, even worse, tyre dealers. One tyre dealer tried lifting in the middle of the sill until I stopped him. The areas were rust treated, painted and seam sealed again. My Skoda dealer just raises his eyebrows when I mention this, so now I only use them for "big" things like cam belt changes etc. There is a specific polyurethane "puck" made by Powerflex: VAG JACK PAD PF3-1661 https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/VAG+Jack+Pad+Adpator/13324.html which is exactly the right profile if you want to try and protect the seamsealer. If you want to keep the car as a keeper, these things matter if you are mechanically minded. If not, carry on as normal !!

Diesel cooler? No idea there was such a thing! The underbody plastic protection sheets save the metal floor from "gravel rash", and acts as a warning/sounding board when you have to scrape over rocks. I think the end bit is the lowest part of the body, and if no noise, no underbody contact . I'm on my second set of underbody protection, and also got a few scrapes on the plastic diesel tank. Serious reading of the road surface to take evasive action means our urban 4x4s can mostly go where timid JLR owners go - but you can't call a Yeti a proper offroad vehicle, more a soft roader.

As my local dealer is shut, and I've got a warning that my next service is overdue, just, I'm looking to do an oil change myself out in the road. Yes, I know I can still carry on for a while, but I'm obviously unsure how long the current circumstances will prevail. I have the use of an oil extraction pump, but a trial insertion of the thin plastic pipe gave a tinny ring hitting something. My question is; is there a baffle plate stopping the pipe reaching the bottom of the sump? I want to do a quick job, getting the vehicle up in the air with the skid plate off at the roadside will probably invite unwanted comments/action as I have regular patrols round the village asking people to stay inside!!