Yety

Well, I have no problem with steaming up whatever the weather. Re-circ is used at least twice by the ecu, windscreen washer operation, and selecting reverse gear - you can hear the flaps moving and change of fan motor noise. I thought A/C condensed moisture out of the air, hence the water trail from under the car. Anyway - each to their own 😉

Re-circ is quiet useful. On a cold morning I use it to keep the screen clear whilst not robbing the engine coolant of too much heat during engine warm up. When the temp gauge is nearly normal and oil temp is climbing, I can switch it off. On really hot days when left parked in the sun, open all windows and drive off, then close all windows, C/C on with re-circ until the temperature starts dropping, then switch it off. That's what it's designed for 😉

Thanks, just tried it and it seems to work without the engine running. Full blast on hot or cold now. Not the link I can vaguely remember, but very helpful. There is a wheezing/groaning flap movement which I've had for a couple of years now, so next job is to find out if the flap mech can be reached from say above the pollen filter

My C/C seems to have gone "funny". Today on a long journey I was getting less and less heat, the car was steaming up in the cold air, and I had to get back home with both front windows slightly down to get some ventilation. The engine coolant temperature is fine, the gauge is normal, the fan runs at full speed on full cold setting, but drops to a whisper on full heat - with no heat coming out. The re-circ button is lit all the time, so I don't know if the re-circ is on or not! Maybe a flap motor mech is gummed up? A temperature sensor, I can see one in the driver's side dash vent? I seem to remember a re-set procedure, but can't find it, but it might be worth a try? Otherwise it's a dealer visit 😩

Wow, someone else is nerdy 😉 I also think the "lurch" is the Haldex release if the parameters it is receiving gives the impression that extra traction is needed (predicted wheelspin immediately on start), then realises that it is not required. I've noticed it does seem apparent in mud or snow. As to the fuel cut-off, I can make it do it at the crest of a little hill leaving home - I think it must be connected to an inclinometer, also used for hill hold starts. Possibly a fuel saving device.

No 1 sounds very familiar. my 2012 Yeti did a little "lurch" on steering lock when starting off from new. I do a lot of gravel road driving, never had a problem with traction. Filters and oil have been changed regularly, and outside observers have not noticed any wheel spin/ no spin. The Haldex is predictive, and does not need wheel spin to engage. There are lots of signals the Haldex recognises to engage, particularly steering lock, throttle, hand brake etc. Perhaps your Subaru did not have the same inputs to the software? There are many incarnations of Haldex fitted, from Fiat Panda, Ford, Volvo, JLR etc so there is probably a variation in software. The funny "lurch" is mystifying, not at all adverse to any situation on or off road - but I would like to know what causes it 😖. Another funny one is cresting a hump in the road on a neutral throttle - you can feel as if the fuel shuts off momentarily - again, no problem. No 3 sounds like a re-gen, No 2 might need a diagnostic test

Dipped headlights in "real" fog is not helped by upward scatter - even with modern lens. A "proper" fog light will produce a flat beam with minimal upward scatter, illuminating the surface ahead, but not producing any glare and reducing vision. As I haven't noticed any proper fog for years - household chimneys didn't help - I think it might be that older driving experience understands this and indeed, as said above, fog lights are just seen as trendy. Lots of people seem to drive around in daylight on side and fog lights - must be Vic Meldrew/OAP syndrome comes over me A few times I've ended up parked next to one of trendy people and casually mentioned they were driving around with fog lights on - face full of puzzlement

Hehe - my Suzuki has dim/dip as OE, still working and confuses the hell out of the MoT man every year. I think the idea was a UK initiative, but then the EU came along to say the idea was stupid, and then came out with DRL on only the front. I sort of think the dim/dip was a better innovation in it's day, but then of course we all had to follow the "Scandinavian model" of driving around in daylight with lights on, which at the time was thought "funny" by southern Europeans with long daylight hours. Politics

There are occasions - on motorsport events that radio cars need to be in position at very early hours. It is easier to recline the passenger seat, remove all three rear seats, get into position, and all is well. Woke up once in mid Wales covered in snow - lovely and warm under the snow blanket. As you say - everyone has one.

No real need for a screw in the filter, slacken off the the 2 screws on the cap. Remove one, take a judgement of the amount of engagement needed to avoid pulling out with both screws slackened, and just start the engine - shutting down after a few seconds. The pump is activated just below normal idle revs, pressure builds up and displaces the cap and filter to the extent you allowed in the exposed thread length. As soon as the filter "O" ring clears the casing, oil floods out and so there is no fear it will eject through the floor panel Usual stuff, clean around the filter cap, the floor above etc to ensure no particle of anything gets into the unit body. Has worked for me for years now.

Material fatigue is well known, opening/closing car door wiring failure is not life threatening Yeti front door loom failure is becoming "common", as it it is on many vehicles these days. My MG has a common failure point in the rear boot lid hinge area - giving rise to central locking problems etc. Copper is pretty easy to work harden - yes multiple small diameters twisted in say a silicon extruded insulation is probably as good as you can get. But these are mass produced cars, not space shuttles. I consider this sort of thing as routine replacement when required, such as wiper blades, tyres etc. My FOS door loom has already been replaced - looks like the hatch door is the next to go - c'est la vie

I agree, perhaps perhaps because it's not visible to most people, probably not accessed often. Who knows

Perhaps it's because looms have specific plugs/sockets so there is no need of the expense of colour coding each conductor?

I'm struggling to understand a few things here. Why did you have to replace the struts in the first place? Were they corroded or had the seals lost a bit of pressure? The pictures look bad, corrosion like that could surely have taken place only over many years, possibly in a corrosive atmosphere. Also, there is a possible date of 02 showing. I can't understand why they could ever be so corroded, my experience of struts on trailer lids and various vehicles over the years is that the body remains fine, but leakage reduces the strut's ability to work properly. Anyway, good luck with your claim.

Oooops Slip of the 0000s 208k miles, and still going strong.

Which bit was badly corroded - the pressurised body , or the "piston rod"? I can't imagined the hardened, polished rod would corrode if the door was opened from time to time as the seals would fail and leak pressure. No gas strut I've ever had on a vehicle has shown the slightest trace of corrosion. The strut on the rear door of my 1985/86 Suzuki has seen much water, much action and still looks pretty good after 200008k miles. If the corrosion is on the body, why not wipe it down with some WD40 (avoiding the seals), or a touch of smoothrite for cosmetic appearance?

We bought our car as my wife's shopping car, mid range spec but with a few extras: heated front screen, factory fit tow bar, proper rubber mats front and rear as well as 4x4. The thought was I could use the Yeti for motorsport organising activities, as well as shopping, to "save" my SJ 413 which is now starting it's third time round the clock. Unfortunately she became ill after 9 months, and a further 9 months later died. The Yeti has turned 111k, a lot of off road stuff- including marking out a course for a 4x4 event at Bovington tank training area; quiet impressed as other more "off-road" vehicles got into difficulties. I'm old school, we bought the car cash from new, and intend to keep as long as possible. Any money spent on "repairs" will be cheaper than replacing at intervals. The car is still in A1 nick, handles really well for a boxy 4x4. To keep the weight down, the rear seats are permanently removed, and the boot space is full of marshalling/ recovery kit. I can't think of any car past or present that is such a good on/off road package - and it looks to be a future possible quirky "classic".

I remove the two screws holding the filter cover on, judge a suitable amount of thread to allow the top to pop up, and enough thread engaged to prevent the top cover being thrown about, and just start the engine for a few seconds and switch off. The Haldex pump is fired up at very low revs and only takes a few seconds to build up enough pressure to pop the cover off - works for me over the last few years. Usual precautions over oil spillage, but quick and easy if you have no VCDS. Drain/remove pump if need be/replace filter/ close everything up and recheck the oil level after a short run. The only thing I did early on was make a short extra length of harness with VAG plug/socket to make it easier to remove the pump. Cable tie the short excess length out of the way on the top of the unit.

Is this useful? CA643 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY - air conditioning replacement parts online shop (euro-klima.pl) Contains the shear plate as well. I think there is a circlip to remove, possibly a puller to remove the pulley and bearing as one. I also have a funny, creaky noise when CC not enabled. I don't have a clutch, but variable swash plate aircon pump.

Yes, it's a glued on hollow seal. It hardly seals the gap even when it's in place, mud can creep past towards the inner seal. If not cleaned off it can rub on the door paint. When we got the car from new, I stuck some foam strip on the metal door skin to meet up with the OEM seal - seems to be still working. I do a lot of gravel road travel, and worse, so mud is a constant battle to keep down, not only on door seals but the underside as well

I'll make a point of counting the number of clicks next time I can drive the car - normally when I check it's 2 - 3 when pulled with extreme force. Does that mean you can help me now? It's the part J.R. mentioned - the balance bar connecting the two cables with the handbrake lever - so perhaps you can't help

Sorry, I don't quiet understand I did say "Handbrake compensation arm is level, minimum clicks (normally don't let it click on - old habit)" Perhaps I wasn't clear enough to be thoroughly pedantic proof- but I do check the number of clicks from time to time, but normally I don't. Hope that is sufficient to satisfy your interest I was only seeking some information to an annoying problem.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I do press hard on the footbrake when parking on my slope at home - it helps. I was pretty sure there was no rear brake bias valve - just checking I'm aware of the weight transfer - surprised it that it is that much as he doesn't test on the rollers. Handbrake compensation arm is level, minimum clicks (normally don't let it click on - old habit) But, on the movement of the lever on the caliper I have a suspicion. On my MG TF, I had problems with the rear calipers, and completely dismantled them to get at the needle roller bearing supporting the exterior operating arm. As this side of the caliper is open to the atmosphere, water was passing the seal and corroding the rollers. A good clean, drilled and tapped the rear of the caliper body for a grease nipple and treated the the roller bearing and the short pushrod to a good dollop of red rubber grease. Once a year I give a little squirt of grease and all has been well for the last 15 years. I've not been brave enough to completely dismantle the rear calipers to see if the bearing and cam pushrod is crudded up - it's all I can think of. Has anyone been there?

I expect to get a bit of a beating about this - but I, and and my local MoT garage have spent ages trying to get it to work and hold my car on my sloping drive without chocking the wheels and leaving in gear. Any ideas? I will say that I'm well used to mechanical things on cars, got 4 cars (one in back garden for spares), but this is what I've tried so far. Checked the handbrake cable for free action - fine Worked the pistons in /out many times - fine Lubed the sliders many times - fine Lubed the pad ears - they are free to move - fine My next thought that it might be the mech at the back of the caliper which works a "cam/pushrod" to push on the back of the piston. But perhaps not, as the hydraulic action seems very feeble as witnessed by disc wear. Is there an old fashioned pressure limiting valve to the rear? The rear pad wear is erratic and uneven. On the other hand, my cr@p MG TF with Rover 800 rear calipers as standard, but with Ford Focus ST 170 rear discs sweep cleanly both sides, and have a very strong handbrake action - I've run out of ideas

Good choice of lifting kit. Why have a spare set of wheels with Goodyear Vector 4seasons on? They're not "proper" winter tyres, but do what it says on the rim I use mine all year and have been fine in sun, mud and snow. btw: have you noticed the seam sealer crushed by naughty jacking in a previous life, with signs of cracking, possible metal exposure. If you want to keep the car, might be a job for the warmer months of the year to investigate?