Yety

I've been using my VAG DPF for 6 ish years now, really to keep an eye on the oil ash residue. Three things I'm not sure on - what is the ultimate limit of the oil ash as there seems to be no definitive figure. I'm measuring in (l), which I might guess is litres? The other two things are "differential pressure", which I guess is measured on the inlet and outlet of the DPF? The third thing is "High Press. EGR Closing (%)" Obviously it is to do with the EGR operating condition - what does it actually show? Does it show the actual degree of movement, and the frequency of operation? Mine goes up and down like a yo-yo and looks impressive - but does/can it give a warning of EGR clogging? Answers on a postcard welcome 😉

Phew, I'm not the only one thinking like this 😌 I've always been careful to keep the engine revs above 1500 as a bare minimum. I too, like the sound of "whirring" things rotating, especially as I normally run with no back seats - weird I know. DPF and drive line shunt can be very distressing to the mechanicals at such low revs. My Suzuki has low compression Swift GTI block/crank and 8 valve head and can handle low revs and low road speed easily. Very little or no measurable wear in 208+k so far. I think a lot of folk have been brought up on "old style" diesel engines, Ford Transit and the like which would lugg from very low revs (and break down, leak oil, be very noisy, etc). Also, there is no need to rev the b******s off the unit - lots of use of the gears to keep in the zone, or get else a DSG! I'm on 125k on original everything, and crossing my fingers as I want to keep my Yeti for ever.

Not really relevant, but I thought I had a similar problem some time ago. Clicking and whirring, but door would not open. Turned out the door seals had "glued" to the door frame 😌. Cleaned the door frame with WD40, and used some rubber lube on the seals - been fine ever since.

If desperate, turn washer upside down, and /or use PTFE tape - works for me over many years - safe the planet 😇

That's funny, one of the first things we did to our new Yeti was to remove the armrest - it just got in the way. The flat horizontal platform left provides a really good base for my MS UK radios, and I can still use the cubby hole.

The local village garage decided against moving the engine forwards a little, but seemed to have slackened the Haldex/diff unit in the subframe enough to swop over the coupling - supporting the diff weight on a gearbox jack with two guys juggling the fitting, and one on the jack. The exhaust and some shields had to be moved out of the way - if they had to do another one, it wouldn't take as long. They said no way would any normal person try to do this out in the road on their backs 😲 Any way, further mileage has confirmed the noise level has dropped, I can tell as I normally run with with the rear seats removed and drive noise is more evident.

Well, it's done. Much to my surprise the car sounds quieter, drives "better", more new car feel. Since I've had the car from new and it's on 122k, it now seems to have a new lease of life - not that there was anything really wrong with it. A lot of pushing/pulling/levering did not show any joint movement/ slackness - but I'm happier now.

Taken my Yeti into my local village garage today - just had a phone call to say local suppliers say hard to find and joint +/- £600. I've told them b******s, I can source one for £102.15 + postage, and they have just come back and said a fairly local VAG indie can get one for +/- £150.00. They are going ahead with the car up in the air to see how to move the propshaft/ engine forward about an inch and remove it while they are waiting for the joint to arrive. No hurry for me, I can break out my trusty Suzuki SJ 413 (208k) to run around in - my sort of car, you can fix with a hammer and a handful of basic tools 😉

And, any luck? I've had another look and it's out of my range of abilities. It looks easy, but there is a bush (plastic?) in the rubber joint which centralises the coupling on a spur on the Haldex drive shaft flange. "Bending" the propshaft by the centre bearing/ U/J would help, but the prop shaft needs to go forward axially to clear the stub on the Haldex flange without damaging the centralising bush. So, moving the engine /gearbox forward enough to clear the stub is a challenge if you have not done it before. The bush is only a rigid centralising bit in the rubber joint, and needs to be kept undamaged. The joint is not a U/J in the traditional sense, it doesn't need to bend. It seems to be simply a "flexible" rubber insert in the driveline to absorb shock impulses like the DMF, and the metal outer ring is just a damper. I could get brutal with levers/ prybars etc, but caution prevails and I'll get an indie to do it.

My outer metal ring is becoming detached in places, and I looked at replacing late last year. It looks easy, but there is a central sleeve in the coupling and a male extension of the propshaft which centralises the assy. There is little or no room to move the prop shaft forward, it's sort of locked in. The only way I could see was to unbolt the centre bearing, possibly move the exhaust a little in order to kink the prop shaft and effectively shorten it. I decided that the weather, old age etc was enough to put it off, but I need to get it sorted as well at 120k. The joint does not have to act as a U/J much - everything is in a straight line. It seems to be a drive line damper, working with the dmf clutch to reduce low rev firing impulses, and the outer metal ring is a normal sort of torsional vibration damper. I can only wonder what happens when all the remaining bits of bonding fail and the metal ring will clang about the U/J /prop shaft. I must find an indie to get this done as soon as possible 😨

Brilliant idea, many thanks. I'm not brave enough to take out the dash, my indie is more of a spanner man with limited diagnostics - so I think it may be a dealer option. Nothing has seemingly failed except the creaking, groaning of the re-circ flap which has increased in volume recently. Do you know if there is a rainwater drain for incoming fresh air?

I do like breathing, you don't seem to grasp that I use re-circ a lot in dusty conditions. Normally re-circ is not engaged and I let the CC carry on and do it's thing. I do understand what's going on behind the dash board in simple terms. The original poster and I seem to have similar problems. I'm only asking if anyone has an idea of how it operates: are there 4 flaps, 1 flap, 10 flaps, are they all gear driven , location on RHD cars (for me), schematic flow diagram - anything that may give me a clue before I try and get up side down under the dash with a torch. If the answer is no - fine. I have no wish to know what your mind might or might not think. Graham - I've found a friend who might have an endoscope, so might give it a shot, thanks for the idea.

I thought that would have been obvious. I drive a lot on gravel roads, summer and winter. In drier times sometimes the dust is so thick I can't see out of the back window, and following another vehicle is something to try and avoid. Hence I change both filters several times a year. Static makes the dust stick round the door seals, on the metalwork under the seats - it gets everywhere. I did refer to this way back 😣 I was looking for some useful help in understanding the CC flap operating mech.

Not too sure what to make of that Graham 😆, where would I get one and where would I put it? There is an indie near me, so I might try him as the heat output is low, but sometimes belts out hot. The Yeti is on 120k and all fine except this - bit of a nuisance in cold wet mornings. ps:HNY to all

No, it's not that. I renew the cabin filter and engine air filter several times a year

I've got a similar problem. I've tried the re-set procedure which sort of works temporarily but is not the answer. I can hear the flaps moving when reverse selected, and it groans and wheezes to move about. No clicking of skipping gears, just seems to be clogged up. I do a fair bit of gravel driving about, I normally have the re-circ flap shut to keep the dust out, but dust gets everywhere inside eventually. I'm thinking I need someone to look at what's happening - I guess a dealer would just renew everything in sight? Are there any good views of the flaps, most You Tube stuff shows LHD cars so not really a lot of help.

@Stanners Hi, just noticed you have a 1995 model Yeti. No wonder your lights are dim 😉 Seasons greetings 😏

I do a lot of driving on gravel tracks, quiet a bit at night time. The "Mk 1" Yeti has superb lighting as standard. I find full beam and fogs give 180* lighting immediately in front of the car (to avoid hidden ditches, rocks etc) and a good long range view of the track ahead. Why do you think you need an "upgrade"? I know many think leds are trendy and more efficient, but sometime more is less. As an example, led number plate lights glare so much you can't really see the script on the plate - the (old fashioned yellow) filament bulbs give a sympathetic light which makes them easier to read. DRLs on some cars now are almost offensive in their brightness and dazzle factor, they are for daylight use initially in Nordic countries - but the EU said ----- Having said all that, leds are really useful for interior lights, brake/indicator lighting for example. Dazzle from moving/self levelling led headlights is a problem not only for older drivers. It should be a balance between night time road illumination, other road users, and the acceptance that perhaps you can't drive as fast at night as you can in daylight on urban roads. The number of cars with one light in motorway lane three at stratospheric speeds is frightening.

Phew, that's two of us then that think this way. I did mention this earlier in round 1, but then the conversation veered wildly about. I haven't seen a car jacked up and wheels missing ever, I must have lived a sheltered life 😉

Passenger side, behind the lower grill under the number plate.

All this fuss over a few nuts (bolts) ☺️ Soon after after getting our car, I replaced the security bolts with bog standard bolts - no one wants to steal a set of ordinary, non bling, Skoda wheels these days. It would take a very nerdy thief to get down, or not, on their knees to see if a security bolt was fitted 😩 I must agree the bolts are a strange fitting, at least with old fashioned wheel studs, you can replaced any damaged threads and hang a wheel on the hub before nipping up.

Mmmm, not exactly what I was expecting, thanks for all the information. I think I'll avoid the dealer. Yes, I've already seen the prices of various joints/damper, but it seems to be relatively not straightforward. Possibly "kinking the propshaft to get the joint apart entails quiet a bit of dismantling - which as I mentioned in the first post would have to be out in the road. As I might need the OSF lower suspension arm replacing, I might leave it until after Xmas and get a local Indie to do both things. I've already had the NSF arm done early last year with him, probably a consequence of a lot of running about on gravel roads and worse. I'll jack up the car and have a wiggle (technical term) about tomorrow to confirm what needs doing.

Hi Graham - another Yeti forum - are they friendly over there. Ok, I'll have a look in the morning, if it looks too difficult it might be a visit to my favourite Skoda dealer - thanks.

Having a quick look around under the car pre MoT, noticed that the joint seemed to be suffering from the bonding between the metal and rubber breaking up. Doesn't seem to be fatal, worst case the outer metal ring might detach and clang about, but the joint seems mechanically ok. Has there been any experience of problems, apart from probably initial vibration? Looks like it might not be as simple as it seems, might have to remove/loosen some shielding and the central bearing, possibly exhaust to get the central pin out of the bush in the joint. I'd rather try to replace in warmer/drier weather as I have to work out in the road (drive on a steep slope)

Thought this might dispel a few myths about C/C, just trying to be helpful. 10 Tips on How to Use Air-conditioning Properly - ŠKODA Storyboard (skoda-storyboard.com)