Yety

I've got a diesel, but the plastic looks similar. It's a water trap, any deep water ingress will be trapped and drained when the vehicle is clear of the water. Short term measure to try ensure the engine keeps running in deep water - but don't test it by driving through a river!

Yes, you're right. Almost able to wiggle out, but no. Unable to remove carrier out in the road, but they have been off before, so it might well be possible without having the car on a lift. Thanks to all for help.

Thanks very much. Do you know if these disc can be wiggled ouit?

Saving time and cold fingers yet again, the easy way is car reg : CK61 ORT. Many thanks.

Yes, you are right of course. I guess I assumed without elaborating, the bigger discs can not be wiggled out from the caliper carrier. I just want to know if the smaller disc can be maneuvered out from the carrier.

I've a Jan 2012 CFHF lowest power diesel (EA 189) - 103bhp , 4x4. Can the rear discs be replaced easily without the faff of the higher powered models which involve removal of the calipers. Without jacking it up and trying as I can't remember if I've replaced the discs before (stiff knees syndrome!). I guess OEM Skoda discs and pads are better than aftermarket ones which can sometimes be iffy, although cheaper. Any advice appreciated.

Not really as far as I know. The TC was twin SUs, I also had an alternator and an oil cooler off an MGB to cope with towing a caravan we had at the time. The handling on the road was a dreadful compared to comparative cars at the time, but it was cheap, reliable and never let us down.

We bought our only brand new car in Jan 2012. It's been the best car I've ever had. Lots of rally gravel (and worse) tracks over the years, now on 140k. Even kept company with a LR series 2, choosing the route by reading the road surface ahead and weaving about to suit. The down hill braking feature is superb after a nervous first run on a very rocky, wet excursion! The Yeti is so versatile: sleeping in, shifting stuff to the recycling centre etc. Before that my previous favourite cars have been a series of Montego diesel estates, Rover 400 company cars. Everything was better than our previous 1.8 Marina Coupe TC! Good to keep the forum going, still full of useful information from way back.

My Yeti has this problem, and has been getting worse over the years. I life on a hill with a sloping drive, big wood chocks are now needing to stop creep. Yes, hard foot braking and yanking on the hand brake lever has some effect, although the hand brake movement is twice the amount I can get without foot brake use. Many attempts have been made by dealers and indies to no effect. The sliders, pads and discs are all good. I think the problem is the automatic adjuster behind the hydraulic piston. I have some Golf Mk 4 rear calipers which I was going to fit on my MG, but didn't as I was able to rejuvenate my Rover 800 rear calipers which are OEM fitment. I've taken the Golf calipers apart, and the handbrake adjustment is a tightly clenched packaged unit which seems very difficult to find. I don't know if it is the same as in the Yeti, but I may have to get new rear calipers as it's getting worse all the time. The front discs are fine, disc wear is uniform and may be compensating for poor rear brakes. The rear discs look tatty, indicating not really working effectively? My MoT testing garage uses a Tapley meter, so I haven't any real data. It passes every time!!

Hydrate - 80 is excellent. I've used it for years - it works and you can use as a primer as it dries hard and can be sanded down ready for paint. Just used it on my Yeti, drivers door where the road grit runs down the seal and rubs the paint away. Nice and clean now in new paint, covered by a small patch of clear helicopter tape ready for the winter.

My handbrake has always been "weak" and has never held securely on my sloping drive without chocking. Despite many attempts by main dealer and indies to rectify - no success. The only way to get some sort of grip is the old dodge of standing on the foot brake and then applying the handbrake. The lever travels quite a distance, goes solid and holds on a hill with some creaking. I have some new Golf calipers which I was going to retro fit to my MG, but gave up for various reasons. Dismantling the caliper revealed the adjustment "cartridge" a clenched over little sealed unit: I think the problem lies here, and would seem to need new calipers to sort out.

Thanks, checked that out, but not the answer. The noise sounds like two heavy bits jiggling together somewhere under the N/S floor area. But as you say, odd noises are hard to track down. I need to get a new noise sorted, as it sounds like a CV joint starting to go. I have a local indie who is much better at listening to what you are saying, so I might be able to get both sorted when up in the air on a hoist.

I'm trying to track down some annoying "rattles" which have developed over the last few months. Checked ARB drop links, some plastic interior trim around the gear lever, adjusted the rear hatch stops, but although reduced the noise is still there over jiggly road surfaces. Is there any way to adjust the door shut clamping on the seals. I've sort of tried the catch on the door jamb, which on most cars I've had can re moved inwards slightly. These seem to be non adjustable, and I'm nervous of losing the interior threaded plate if it it is not captive. Any advice welcome.

Saw a question on DPF just now, and thought about something I've recently noticed on my car. I've been using VAG DPF since 2016 on and off. Recently the oil ash residue box shows (gm) instead of (l) - which I never knew what it represented - possibly litres? The car is up around 125k, mostly urban driving - although a recent re-gen occurred over 300 miles, and another over 250 miles. The other thing is CFHF engine type is still not an option - set to read from ECU. My question is, has a definitive max ash level been established? I know it's not space capsule instrumentation and there are many variables due to driving use/manner etc. I love the car so much and I'm of the old fashioned view that it is cheaper to repair rather than sell a good car and buy another at much cost. It would be nice to have a view for my OAP budget 😨

I've always ( for a long time!) had scratchy, rumbling sort of noise when idling, as soon as the CC is switched on it goes away. Having been a smart **** a couple of years ago and finding a link to a from compressor bearing assy as above, I chickened out and left alone. Last week I ordered the bearing assy from Warszawa and got my local garage to fit as it is wet out on the road this week. First problem they had was the central torx screw proved difficult to remove (that must have me then back in 2012 when new using a drop of loctite) First struggle over, the bearing assy came out minus the bearing!! It is held in the pulley by several spot swaged points - but the bearing pulled out of the pulley assy. They got the bearing out on it's own with difficulty as there was signs of corrosion on the surface of the outer race. The bearing seemed to be fine, smooth and free running, but the belt tension pulley bearing was rough - slack and and rough when rotated. So - the new pulley/bearing assy was installed. A new idler pulley assy comes complete with bracket and bolted to the block with access after removing the CC compressor!! A bit of crafty dismantling got the new idler bearing back on the "old" bracket. Engine fired up and as silent as when new. Sorry for the long saga, but the tensioner bearing was potentially more harmful as this belt has been known to get tangled up with the crank pulley, melt bits of the plastic timing belt cover and take out the timing belt - not an unusual occurrence on most cars. Mine was rumbling for a long time, so the "waste" of money in getting a new pulley assy when not really needed was worth it as the idler bearing was shot.

Soon after we got the car in Jan 2012, I took the arm rest off. It got in the way of the handbrake operation, was a general pain, but made an ideal platform for my MS UK rally radios which could be fixed further back out of elbow's way! Access to the cubby box still maintained. Never regretted doing that, personally I prefer both hands on the wheel - takes all sorts 😉

We ordered the Rough Road Package from new along with some other stuff, and it is of a composite - doesn't look like fibreglass and certainly not carbon fibre, but very stiff and bash resistant. Like Graham, I drive a lot of gravel tracks very frequently (and the odd rocky diversion when in a hurry to find an errant vehicle) , so bears many scars but is still very effective in protecting the low hanging oil collecting point in the sump casting. Obviously different materials for different models and usage. The only part that suffers is the stupid bit of lower bumper which acts as a plough and warns/ signals of depression entry angles. Bit scarred now but not really visible ☺️

Skoda dealer?

Ah, you may have reminded me. During the first covid lockdowns my Skoda dealer was shut - lights off, no phone, no email and I had to replace the N/S front wishbone. The rear rubber bush had gone so that was replaced together with both drop links. I had to struggle a bit with something, but easy enough in a workshop, but I was out in the road! The local tyre place was open, so it had a full four wheel alignment carried out. The O/S has started to squeak now, the dealer can do that at it's next service. Thanks, not sure what the M14 was used for, but probably something to do with replacing the wishbone, although it is an easy enough job with only three pivot points to deal with. I'll give it a polish and keep in my "odd" socket store.

I had a sort out during covid, and donated my very old collection of 12 point sockets to my neighbour, and got a good set of 6 point sockets instead - much better. I also found a male M14 and a male T60. Both very similar o/ds - I think I must have bought one for a particular job, and found it was the wrong sort of bit and bought another. No idea now which was used, as both look brand new. Has anyone got any idea what they might have been used for - my mind has gone blank 😩 My Suzuki is totally metric and majors in flanged nuts and bolts - 85 My MG is also metric with no really big fastenings - 02 My Skoda is the most likely of course - but what for? I'll keep them just in case - help!

That's strange - mine fell out some time ago. I'd just got in the car, looked around checking things before firing the beast up, and the N/S mirror glass fell out and lodged between the mirror body and the side window. Luckily I was able to glue it back on, there was no plastic backing, seems to still work ok, although not quiet as good as the drivers mirror. I suppose I should replace it, but as it still "works" I've been waiting for some warmer dry weather 😖

I've never done this, but recently got the rear coupling changed. I chickened out and and got my local village garage to do it. They struggled until they moved the diff/haldex unit back a bit in the rear subframe in order to engage the centralising spigot in the hole square on. It was a close non interference fit and would only engage when square on. Perhaps, if you have not got enough clearance to move the propshaft back, engine forward enough you won't be able to insert the spigot into the hole. Perhaps you could try releasing the centre bearing assy and perhaps "kink" the prop shaft enough to get the spigot engaged - I don't know, only a suggestion if you are getting desperate!!

Why not try your nearest friendly Skoda dealer - I fitted the kit back in 2012 with no problems. The rear piece does not cover the entire edge of the plastic bumper - I've got a black plastic bumper and it fits in perfectly. The front bits only go down as far as the start of the lower front bumper section. Part numbers are available for the bits, or as a kit.

Don't know where this came from - I saved it in 2018!

Thanks, tried that and the screen box only darkens and I think stops that box from reading. I emailed the guy ages ago 05/2018: "I've got a CFHF engine, not listed in the App, so I choose engine to be specified "read from ECU". I haven't direct experience with CFHF engine and no reports from users. But the app works with CFHA, CFHC and CFHD that are very similar engines, probably the only difference is the power as usually vag do changing the last character of recent four characters engine codes. So probably your engine will work using the engine group 3 (you should se it manually into options menu because the app doesn't know your engine code yet), but I can't be sure 100%. You should try with free app and with a good adapter. Bye, Daaren" OK, so it's possible no-one knows what the upper ash limit is, I guess it depends on driving style/ use and so many variables that only time will tell. It's the EGR one that bugs me, what is it actually showing, the phraseology is difficult to interpretate?