Fred44

Michelin Thats all I have to say.

As your new to the game, I’d like to ask a few questions if possible: 1. What experience do you have as a company in relation to brake systems? 2. What unique advantage do your disks have over competitors? 3. What research did you do to conclude dimples and grooves are the best solution for a disk as none of the other ‘big boys’ such as brembo went this route? 4. Have the disks passed any form of certification, such as TUV? Thanks and I'm sure others have questions too.

Is this the same silver as an 06 Fabia VRS?

They grumble and moan over 290

I know you were not saying its fast etc I was more sort of saying how the autocar stuff is flawed somewhat

I have litereally no idea whats going on in this thread.

Is it my imagination or do you have a neon light on the front intercooler/radiator?

They do.... but the problem is with these tests they also dont take into account how small the gears are. Lets compare a VRS to a Honda S2000 If you did a 30-50 in 3rd the VRS would be faster. But wait on, the fabia only does about 47 in second. The S2000 does 65!!! So not only coudl the S2000 have done them speeds in 2nd, it could have nearly done the 50-70 in 2nd as well! Top end of 2nd is the same speed as top end of 3rd in the fabia. So its not like for like and these ingear tests are always totally biased to diesels. Lets do 40-60 in 2nd. Oh wait.... the diesel cant even do that. I;m using the S2000 as an example becasue a friend has one and its a perfect demonstration of why these times only tell a very small part of the story.

What their test doesnt say is if its foot down before the speed or not. So is 50-70 foot down at 50, or foot down at 40 then time from 50?

Thanks for the replies – its certainly interesting and in the big scheme of things very cheap. I knew 130 was not enough before I bought the car. However the 40+ mpg around town makes up for it Well…. It does but I’m now so bored of the car I’m debating either passing it down to the GF or selling it. But then I read all these hybrid posts and a little part of me wondered if going that sort of power would make the car more interesting and livable for another 18 months or whatever. The money it would cost is nothing compared to buying a new car. I don’t know. Just crazy dreams at this stage. How hard is a new turbo to fit yourself?

I keep seeing talk of hybrids and have a question…. If you want.... I don’t know let’s say 210 BHP. Is it as simple as you buy this turbo for £880 http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/mdx446-stage-2-hybrid-turbo-for-vag-19tdi-130bhp-engines-p-4858.html It fits straight on to all the standard parts. Then get somebody to map it for like £300 or whatever they charge. And that’s it?? Technically that’s all you need to do? Intercooler and clutch aside for a second.

No, not for your area. But the one it of advice I would give is also get the flywheel done at the same time.

No, all standard and genuine parts from dealer.

Thanks for all the replies. I will take it off tonight and check the mount. Going to be well pssed off if we did something silly. Probably even more so if it turns out the brand new bearing is faulty!

They were both replaced. Is it poosible to fit them not quite right or are they either on or off?

Side to side they are the same (im 99% sure), but didn't know if there was a minor difference in up and down sort of thing. We did it ourselves and it all looks fine. We followed all the correct torque settings and took our time about it. It then had 'proper' 4 wheel alignment done at a specialist and was hardly out, so it certianly lined up fine. Other than them two things it drives ok as well. PS its just on one side the boing, the left.

Is it technically possible to fit one of the front springes the wrong way? The springs and dampers got changed on my car (along with all sorts of other bits at the front) and I have two symptoms.... 1. When getting in the car I sometimes move the wheel and you hear a boing noise. Its then fine. 2. At slow speeds over rough surfaces with lock on there can be a knock now and then. I'm just wondering if a spring went in the wrong way or something silly. Any suggestions are greatly appretiated.

Metal or silicone probably makes no difference in terms of heat. If the metal one can put heat out faster..... it can also take it in faster from the engine so balances it out. Unless your running some crazy power the standard boost pipes are perfectly fine and changing them will do nothing for you other than potentially void your insurance and make the car harder to sell as it will look modified. And a modified car also makes you think its been ragged all over.

Best road pads are total OEM. So either from the dealer, or Pagid from Eurocarparts.

Just something off topic I noticed.... Yeti you know the purpose of the super blue? You are meant to swap to the identical but normal colour fluid each change. It's blue so you know its fully flushed and vice/versa. If you stay with blue it can stain the resevoir. For a proper performance fluid though look at the motul range. The 5.1 is great for a performance long life, but the RBF600 etc is where its at for pure performance (ie heat resistance),

Motorsportworld are usually the best price and service.

I concur.... DS2500 or if its pure track use DS3000 if you can get them. Not sure you can for the Fabia, but DS2500 are spectacular either way. Do not buy any pad (other than OEM for everyday use I mean) other than these. Yes they are very expensive, but they are without equal.

"2. Will removing the back box cause power loss? Well no it won't cause any loss in any power at all plus it could give a possible gain of a max 2 bhp more than Likly it won't give anything but defo will inprove turbo spool up timeing plus there for giving a slightly better throttle response plus it will lose excess waight of your back box so reduction of about I'd say 7kg so that in thery would gain power yes very very small ammount but would give a gain." Apart from the losing some weight bit, you have zero facts to back these statements up. The truth is none of us on here are true experts. The people who designed the engine could probably give you a very good idea without actually testing it.... but all of us combined have about 10% of their knowledge (if that). If I had to guess though I would say there is more change of it losing power than gaining.

I love the economy and how cheap it is to run as a car for getting to work. Everything else I don’t like. I have driven a lot of cars and the more you drive the more you realise just how bad and old a lot of the car is. Build quality, handling, brakes, drivetrain, reliability….. it’s all very poor. But the job of being cheap with a hint of fun and a good turn of speed if needed it’s great at.

The 4WD golfs/TT have compeltely different independant suspensiopn to the normal golfs. Plus things mentioned and another 100 things. As funny as it would be, it would probably be the biggest waste of money in your life.