BonnevillevRS

Yeah the constraints on the front end of this car do dictate what you can do! The Twintercooler is not the way to go IMO...its just quick product to get market to make money in the interim of them doing it properly! I saw your build progress vRSy on your intercooler and I think a straight swap item is where I am going with this! Gas flow against cooling efficiency is what dictates a good cooler from a bad one, I also think a water injection port on the intake side of the cooler would be a nice option. APR have the dyno I used to run so I know the cooling fans are not the best on it, charge coolers are good for sprint cars or drag cars...not road/track cars as you eventually start heating your intake charge once you have transferred all your heat to the coolant!...its start transferring it back! lol

Hello Guys, How are you? Just wondering if anyone has uprated the intercooler on their Fabia vRS 1.4 twin charger? If you have, please feel free to post up what you have, what it was like to fit (if you did it DIY), what difference you feel it makes and if you felt the price was fair (feel free to post how much it cost if you are willing). To those of you who don't have one, what is holding you back? Is it purely cost? Would be nice to get an idea on what the market offers for a very important part on this car?! Cheers guys!

True! lol...just a pain!

Don't get Skoda to reflash ECU if you have a map in it! Reflash wipes the control unit completely......inc your remap!! ;-)

What technical bulletin is this? Never seen a Volkswagen Group bulletin telling you to allow the water pump to turn over?...and I have seen a few! This vehicle was rushed and didn't go through the quality control procedure correctly! I would be asking for a replacement spring clip and boost hose though!!

Recirc all the way unless you own an Escort RS Turbo! Also, makes sense to put all that energy you used in compressing that air back into the inlet tract!

If you are going to remap...concentrate on getting air in and out as fast as possible! Clean the intake tract up and make sure it is getting cool unturbulent air in and get the cat out of the system (or race cell in) to make sure the turbo isn't being held back! Then you can really wind her up!! ;-)

+1 with Carl...it is to do with the Engine Control Unit version, not the engine! A 2.0TSI in a GOLF will not be OBD mappable, you have to open the CU and put it into "boot" mode! A 2011 Octavia vRS is on the other hand as we mapped the vRS on the salt flats through the OBD socket! Honestly, it is so hard to see a control unit is mapped these days!...harder than people make out to the extent no one can really tell you if it is mapped!

Bigger the cooler to a point....then performance dives off a cliff as the turbo cant fill the cooler quick enough!!

They are putting out closer to 300bhp on the rally than what the mags etc get to test! If you think a leon cupra puts out less with a turbo...its impressive!

It's already road legal!! It has to be for WRC and IRC rules....they drive between special stages on the roads! Even the slicks and gravel tyres are EU approved for use on road! lol Engines only last 1,000kms before a rebuild though! 200,000 Euros and you can buy one!

You are going to spend a few hundred pounds paying someone to modify your car to make it fit and make the pipework!

Why not just buy a proper one for the car...unless you are an engineer and can make the brackets and pipework yourself! Also, what the cap[acity of the cooler and the flow rate? Too big and you will make the car laggy!

You are either a pro wrapper or just good out of the gate! That looks very nice! It takes hours to do a car and is bluddy hard to make it look good! Big panels are quick but hard to get bubble free, smaller panels and fittings are just fiddly! lol

Sorry KB, weren't saying you were mate! :-) No automotive professional should be using this equipment if they properly understand how an AC system works! If you as a customer own an older vehicle with R12 and top up with R134a...it explodes when heated! In a Dealership you will have to be certified to work on an air conditioning system so as to understand the legal, environmental and safety implications involved! But as I said before, topping up a system when you dont know how much is already in it is dangerous....would you put a litre of oil in your engine without checking the dipstick? AC gas pressure does not change with quantity in the system, so 100 grams in an AC system will read the same on a pressure gauge as 10kg in the same AC system! Thats why this tool is probably sold as "get out of jail free card" for your AC and advises you to visit an approved AC specialist sooner rather than later! As for Kwik Fit, with the custom they have I hope they are doing it correctly and evacuating, vacuuming and refilling the system with the correct weight of refrigerant! If you aren't sure just ask them. I know Skoda retailers will be as it is a franchise standard to use only an VWG approved AC service stations and NONE of those stations can simply top up! This is because there is no pressure difference between the vehicle system and the AC service station to "push" the refrigerant from one to the other, which is why it is vacuumed out of the vehicle, the vehicle AC system is placed under vacuum - so the refrigerant is then drawn back in. I imagine the Halfords can has 2 pressure chambers, top chamber you connect to the filling pipe which holds a certain amount of R134a and the lower chamber is just full of "air" that is a higher pressure than the holding pressure of the R134a in the chamber above (R134a rests at 5 bar), so it is pushed in! Sorry, a bit in depth! lol

If you are getting a wrap, go to Creative FX! They may be a drive but they wrapped the Bonneville Octavia (its red), they also wrapped an R8 in chrome and their work and attention to detail is exquisite! If you want to have a chat with them, PM me and I will put you onto a guy who will really look after you, take you through the process and let you smell, feel and see the wraps before you choose them! Purple roof......do it!! I raced a purple R6 in BSB! You get noticed!! ;-)

Yeah linear is a bit track orientated...we run linear rate on the bikes at BSB but different science I suppose! Engines mounts make a world of difference! lol

So what you having done to the chassis and brakes then? The oil cooler will help, you could run an electric fuel pump to feed the oil cooler...that will help take the strain off! Not seen a sandwich plate for this filter yet...let me know how it fits on!

Bang on!....professional AC equipment will not let you top up! 100kg of R134a and 1kg of R134a will read the EXACTLY the same pressure in the same container! Its all on weight! (checking running pressure - your compressor efficiency - is different)! This dates back from the R12 to R134a changeover...mixing them causes explosions lol! There is a lot of legislation around AC system and charging / filling (especially now there is a new refrigerant coming) in...but trust halfords to sell cr4p to people who can harm themselves and others with no pre-requisite of education! £70 for a regas, filter change and efficiency check is good! If you think a carbon element pollen filter is £20 rpp and a 5kg tank of R134a is a few hundred ££

Has to be a complete regas mate...you can't just top up aircon gas (which is called R134a). They will evacuate system, vacuum it then refill completely! ;-) Hope that helps!

Hello Mate! You will probably find the heat exchanger is the biggest reason! in your case anyway! The bigger power stuff you refer to are running air cooled oil coolers (like radiators) and are even running gearbox oil coolers of the same manner, they are just designed to deal with big power and big temps! There was a company talking of developing an oil cooler plate on these (the older TFSI 2.0 engines have them as a performance upgrade). This means you can run a proper oil cooler and "dump" the heat exchanger. This engine is running further up in its efficiency banding (quite a lot of power for a 1.4) compared to say the 150PS single charger 1.4. So the more power it creates, the more heat is created as a by product. This in turn is transferred to the oil not only the coolant, hence why its an over as you rightly say. But, its nice to see you concentrating on the right things when tuning a motor...oil temp values is more important to the coolant values as the oil temp is reflecting the heat the engine components are running under rather than the heat around the combustion chamber..... It's a tasty vRS you have though...must be happy APR are in the UK now too...based in Milton Keynes with Volkswagen Racing!

The minimum your oil temp will be on this engine is 90 degrees as it is a coolant cooled heat exchanger, so when your coolant is 90 degrees at idle your oil temp can only be as cool as 90 degrees if the heat exchanger was working at 100% efficiency. As for a dyno, a dyno is loaded at a minimum to be equivilant to driving on a flat road. I would load it higher if I wanted to pay particular attention to a section of mapping. You also have to remember that 2 sweep tests will normally have the engine fans cutting in and that is in a cell with an air transfer rate of over 10,000 litres of air per minute and directed cooling fans. That is our cell and its not the best in the country. Once the vehicle is up to temps the only thing that will stop me pulling sweeps is the tyre temps as you can get roller pinch which overheats the tyres. The Bonneville car we were pulling 20-30 pulls without a break in Salt Lake City (thats 55 degree ambient, 5,000 ft altitude on a stock engine running 30 psi of boost). A step test will put even more stress on an engine, as you will hold the car at 3,000rpm in 4th, let the dyno run max load then release the dyno to the next step (5 or 6k) and repeat...... 10 Minutes on a dyno is far harder than 30 minutes non stop on track...remember dyno work is wide open throttle pulls from idle in 4th gear....you don't get the luxury of vehicle momentum on rollers to reaccelerate you down the straight. It is pure engine torque spinning the loaded (loaded is similar to driving with brakes on) rollers that doesn't have the same rate of air cooling or airbox pressurisation. But we are getting away from the OP questions. Oil temps lower than 110 - 120 degrees on the road with good quality oil will not cause your engine to behave or wear any differently than oil temps at 90 degrees.....I would only start worrying if I were pulling temps towards 140+ degrees on the road! Oil is a coolant as much as a lubricant and modern day oils are superb!

You deem 110 degrees as the upper limits of acceptable? Most good quality oils aren't even into their stride by then! A good quality oil gets better with heat, not worse! Its why Audi lock their V8 engines and V10 engines does to half revs until the oil temp comes up. Longlife 3 is the top oil VWG make and from stock is what would have been in your vRS! If your car doesn't go over temp on a dyno running a 5 or 6 sweep tests then it wont overheat on a track no matter how good a driver you are! That's why engine and chassis are tested in a cell...not on track! My experience tells me you won't se oil temps jump that high when you start to raise your power! I have seen 260bhp on a road going 1.4 twin charger running a standard oil cooler and oil temps are similar to yours! What makes you think your Motul 300v breaks down at 145 degrees? It has a viscosity rating at 150 degrees on the Motul website of: HTHS viscosity at150°C (302°F) ASTM D4741 4.19 mPa.s (taken from Motul website). No way is it breaking down at 145 degrees, the oil temps of the Bonneville engine were on longlife 3 oil and that wasn't splitting!

180 degress oil temp on the Skoda Bonneville engine in 55 degree ambient!! Longlife 3 oil won't split till well over 150 degrees....believe me I know! A few pulls on a vRS on a dyno will see oil temps on 120 - 130 degrees and the oil is still behaving perfectly! Good quality, clean oil and you won't need to worry! If you are a keen track user, castrol, motul etc will offer better cooling properties for the ABUSE! ;-)

How much oil is it using mate? Anything more than 1 litre per 1,000km's and that is nothing to do with running in etc...thats burning oil!