john.errington

When my Volvo had problems - started dropping into limp home mode- the local guy (Paul at Blueline Taxis -they are great!) checked the codes. There was a million. The codes had never been cleared for at least 6 years. He cleared them all and I drove around for a few miles and returned. Only two fault codes appeared. 1: the internal air temp sensor (which got a blast from an air line; that fixed it!) 2: a wheel sensor. I'd advise anyone to ignore fault codes if they have not been cleared recently, you will be chasing rainbows. If theres a real fault it will appear in a week or so's driving.

I'm in the same boat. Looking for a diag cable and software but the ads all go on about OBD2 compliant, then the compatibility list shows every car EXCEPT Audi, VW, SKoda.

Strange the search didnt find this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/78687-vrs-mk1-stiff-gearbox-cables/ My local garage stripped out the airbox and found.. "Look at where the linkage fits on to the top of the gear box (in engine bay) and take it off. The pin is surrounded by 2 plastic collets take them out and clean out the hole where the collets fit with emery cloth and refit. The problem was that the gear change knuckle is made of some kind of alloy which corrodes and pushes the collets onto the pin stopping it working. So the gunge needs cleaning out." Seems better but I'll report back in a few weeks when I know for sure. Then once I'm certain its not the box maybe I'll go for a gearbox oil change. BTW my local SKoda branch charge £40 for one cable and £30 for the other. They tell me they have NEVER ordered any - so the cables must be pretty reliable.

The code is 1K2 819 015 C £95 from Andrew Page inc VAT. Fitted 3/06/12 seems OK

Thanks Phil; unfortunately a month later the squeal has come back. At least its confirmed its the bearings. Just been told price new (main dealer) is £132. B***er!

Check my post here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/239500-irritating-squeal-from-air-con/ for how to access the bits. IMHO it sounds like the fan is no longer balanced - could be something trapped, or broken fan etc.

Thanks Bruce: so Is the 2009 octy 2 1.9 TDi CAN-BUS? and the 2006 Golf 1.9 TDi ? And would this be the wire? http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html This interface is compatible with the VCDS-Lite software from Ross Tech LLC or VAG-COM release 409.1, and works with: most 1995-2003 VW cars with the 16-pin diagnostic socket most 1996-2003 Audi cars with the 16-pin diagnostic socket most Skoda and Seat models to 2003 with the 16-pin diagnostic socket

I have a 2009 octy 2 1.9 TDi and my partner has a 2006 golf also 1.9 TDi. I'm looking at getting a code reader as my local garages charge £43 to read codes and cant or wont print the readout. I've seen kit on ebay but its not clear to me whether it will work on my cars. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item415f30965c http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3cc7d9e226 but this site http://www.obd2crazy...hstd.html??says "ISO15765 (CAN) - Controller Area Network, a new higher speed interface, just now being implemented (This protocol is currently not supported by any ELM32x or by our software)" So is my car can bus? Also there seems to be a load of free software such as http://www.obd2crazy.com/software.html but as far as I can see its all very dated, so if anyone can recommend other freeware/ cheapware that does the job that would be great. It would be really useful to hear if anyone has used this gear and their opinion of it. OK I Know, get VCDS etc. for that money I could get a car! PS sorry for previous typo b computer changed 2009 to 1999 - showing its age!

My car came from a dog owner too. If you check out this topic http://www.briskoda....l-from-air-con/ it tells you how to get at the blower fan and pollen filter - ITS DEAD EASY. I gave these a clean and a few drops of essential oil on the pollen filter after cleaning it. (I used neroli oil, supposed to keep you alert!) Good opportunity to clean the blower fan, they cost a mint to replace. And a squirt of dettol towards the air con heat exchanger. Made a big difference! I also used febreze on the seats.

Very interesting. Thanks guys.

Why would men need classes?

not really a fair representation of day to day motoring I didnt say it was - I wondered if very low consumption was a possible indicator of turbo problems. There can be no "fair representation of day to day motoring" - because it depends on your own individual experience of day to day motoring. You might live in London and commute in rush hour- or do most of your driving at night on the motorways. A bit of a diference. I did a round trip of 100m last night and got an indicated 64 mpg. A1, open country roads and very light traffic and no rush. An aside - is it common experience that the consumption seems to be low up to about 50, then start to get worse as speed rises? (I'm a physicist, I do know about F=ma etc. ) And also in my Volvo V70 automatic, the gearchange & torque converter held the revs at about 2000. So .. Is it more economical to use 5th - 1500 rpm or 4th - 2000 rpm?

Probably been watching the instantaneous readout. How else do you clock a 3 mile run? Its pretty flat, gently downhill all the way, mostly 40 zone with only 2 sets trf lights and 1 roundabout. Start is 90m above sea level, end only 5m.

My 2009 Octy 2 1.9TDi - gearchange is fine & smooth when cold, but often during a run the horizontal movement across the gate in neutral becomes progressively more stiff, until it becomes difficult to select gears. Listening to it when its hot and the stick is waggled there is a creaking sound from the gearbox end of the cables. Some time ago my MOT guy lubricated the cable ends - no better. Doesn't happen when its cold. Its not predictable - happened recently in heavy traffic and I couldn't select first. Yet on a long run on open roads it was fine. Does anyone have any suggestions - could it just need adjusting?

Car to Garage: Diagnostic shows P0234 “charge pressure control regulating limit exceeded” – so I guess it was going into limp home mode. Still doesnt explain why there was no engine management warning light! remove turbo, strip, decoke and replace £180 they wouldn't agree to try the Mr Muscle and when I saw the turbo I'm sure it wouldnt have worked in this case. Took the guy a while to strip and decoke it - it was well siezed! but its running fine now. Cheaper than a new turbo! Interestingly my fuel consumption seems to be a lot worse - I used to average 55mpg and on one occasion I got 100mpg! Now its down around 40mpg but I'm working the turbo a bit. maybe this is a useful diagnostic for possible turbo problems? Thanks Lofty

Thanks for the pic, it helps a bit. So where do you squirt it in - and what happens to it afterwards, do you need to wash it out?

"sounds like an overboost issue with the turbo, they can get seized, if its a vnt turbo it can be cleaned out with mr muscle oven cleaner, exhaust side only. I did it with mine with a silicone pipe down the egr hole into turbo and feeding mr muscle down there until it comes out the egr hole. it is more indepth than this but it gives you an idea. if its a pd engine it may be same problem but a different solution." Thanks Lofty This link describes this procedure - but unfortunately no pictures. How can I tell if its a VNT? http://www.audi-spor...urbo-vanes.html Further info: the turbocharger is marked VDO and the actuator attached to it is marked 038 13 1501AN - K- 308808018 if that means anything? I'm told its a GARRETT 1749B and cost £375 inc for a recon unit. Also "mine drove fine but when i gave it the beans limp mode kicked in and slowed me down until i restarted engine then fine again until i booted it." - no warning lights are coming on - I'd have expected an engine management problem to be indicated? "As the OP has a 2009 1.9TDI mark 2, it will be a PD unit, chances are at that age it's a BXE block." Yes Mike its a BXE block according to the data plate.

Driving home on the motorway I went to overtake and .. nothing. Pedal to the metal, made no difference, just kept pootling along. AHA says I, due for a filter service , getting insufficient diesel. So today I drove (gently) to get filters, and fitted new diesel and air filters. 30 min, no hassle. Took car out to test it, and it seemed to be fixed, accelerating nicely uphill, then all of a sudden .. continued running fine, but flat as a pancake, no response to flooring the accelerator. No smoke, no warning lights, nothing, just perhaps a slight rattling sound (like pinking on a petrol engine) Car has done 130,000 m and recently had an oil & filter change. Hope one of you can tell me what to try next. I've read on these forums about turbo vanes, and MAF, also hoses - but not for the octy2 1.9 TDi. Thanks.

I recently drove to my local shops. Flat road, no hold-ups, and I managed 100mpg in my 2009 Octy 2 1.9 TDi . On the same return journey, same conditions, I recorded 55 mpg. WHY? Because its gently downhill all the way to the shops. When cars are this efficient driving style, weather conditions (temperature, humidity, wind speed and direction) , speed and PARTICULARLY differences in elevation make a huge difference to consumption. Trip to the shops over the hill and back same way - 48mpg. Same trip around the hill, mostly on the flat, (and its further) 60mpg. You must compare like with like to get realistic comparisons, and this is not easy especially on public roads.

Answering my own question! 1: Remove glovebox The following text is edited from this discussion: http://www.briskoda....oving-glovebox/ Prepare: Set the air con to recirculate, then turn off ignition and remove key. This prevents later problems with the airbag warning light. When you remove screws they are all T20, but not all the same. Remember where they came from! Remove the end panel, and single t20 screw. Then the screws (2 T20's) from the bottom front edge, then those (3) from the front top edge on the inside. Jiggle the box til it comes loose. Disconnect the connector from the glovebox light. The AirCon pipe just pushes on (don't forget to reconnect it) Disconnect the airbag switch cable by releasing the yellow clip. NOTES: Do not switch the ignition on until you've reconnected, otherwise it's a trip to the dealer (or someone with VagCom) to reset the airbag warning light. Replacing the airbag switch connector is a pain - easy to get off impossible to get back on. Remove the two screws holding the airbag switch, and reconnect the cable inside the glove box - then replace the airbag screws. 2: Gain access to blower and pollen filter Remove the air flow pipe to the footwell (1 screw and pull off) Remove 2 thumbscrews and remove plastic trim cover below the blower. Now you should see this: http://img803.images...94/frontltl.jpg 3: Remove blower motor and pollen filter It looks like this from below: http://img855.images...belowblower.jpg Remove plug from blower motor housing. There are clips and its tight so take care. Lift clip (near the connector) and rotate bottom of blower housing. Blower motor and fan come out downwards. Pollen filter cover: http://img818.images...780/belowpf.jpg Slide pollen filter cover towards car door and carefully remove pollen filter. Take both outside. 4: Clean everything You can release the blower motor from its housing by pushing on the rubber clips that hold it in. Then use an airline to blow all the muck out from the motor. I tried to put a drop of oil on the bearings - worth a try . Blow out muck or use a vacuum cleaner and brush to clean the pollen filter (OK or get a new one) Use a paper towel or damp cloth to clean out the tubes as far as you can reach. Reinstall the motor in its housing. 5: Now put everything back. Reinstall blower motor, pollen filter and cover Reconnect the blower connector Put the air flow pipe back (it just fits around the pipe behind the dash, and 1 screw) Refit the plastic trim cover below the blower. Refit the air con pipe, glovebox light and airbag switch connector (see above) Refit glovebox screws Clean up!

My 2009 Octy 2 had a faulty resistor pack when I got the car. Now that it has been replaced it produces an irritating intermittent squeak from the blower, which happens at all settings but is least obvious when the blower is full on. I suspect either muck/leaves in the tubes or (worst case) fan bearings or motor brushes shot. Can anyone advise me how I can remove the blower to clean it and/or try lubricating the bearings? (OK or worst case replace the whole thing? and if so where do I get a new one at a sensible price?) Thanks

I hit on some Philips VisionPlus +50% H7 bulbs - on ebay They are brighter and whiter than the "generic" H7's that were in, a big improvement. Probably Xenon filled. http://www.philips.co.uk/c/car-lamps/visionplus-h7-12-v-55-w-12972vpb1/prd/;jsessionid=891AC60AD73DA2370B2A2B9C84954247.app102-drp1 Reminder: DONT use 80W or 100W bulbs, they WILL burn out your wiring and they WONT focus properly. And blue coated bulbs are a waste - the blue coating filters out red and yellow light (which is VERY useful in fog) so they produce LESS light than a clear bulb. If you really MUST have blue, go for a HID conversion.

According to the service book for my 2009 1.9 PD its to be replaced at 150000 km (= 95000 miles) however the main dealer replaced it after 75000 miles - but according to the book the tensioner wasnt changed.. There is no recommendation to change the tensioner or water pump EVER! However the GOLF 1.9 TDi (same engine) recommends a timing belt every 60,000m and changing the tensioner at the SECOND timing belt change

According to the service book for my 2009 1.9 PD its to be replaced at 150000 km (= 95000 miles) however the main dealer replaced it after 75000 miles - but according to the book the tensioner wasnt changed.. There is no recommendation to change the tensioner or water pump EVER! However the GOLF 1.9 TDi (same engine) recommends a timing belt every 60,000m and changing the tensioner at the SECOND timing belt change

I had this problem on a rally spec Escort RS2000. I had been working on the brakes and adjusted the free play on the master cylinder - as a result the piston wasnt coming fully up which it needs to do to release the hydraulic fluid pressure. Your symptoms sound identical. I'd check around the master cylinder.