daverapid

I can put you in touch with a good friend of mine called Will Kullas if you like. He lives in Northern Ireland and may be able to help you.

I have to disagree with you there.

The sump is off anyway, so if you need to lock the crank to undo the crank pulley bolt use the wooden end of your hammer to wedge between crank and block. No point undoing stuff un-necessarily, the more you take off the more there is to refit and the more chances of something going wrong. Every job requires a hammer, even to change fuses and bulbs.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3123/5862879668_d87d0a79f6.jpg

Long live "The Cow"

I know what you mean, when you own a car that there are loads of it's really easy to jump in the wrong one in the car park by mistake.

I have this, it's pretty tidy but not perfect and the wrong year [1983] but I reckon it's as close and in as good condition as you're likely to get.

You need to ensure the thermostat is working correctly, including ensuring that the housing hasn't collapsed internally jamming it's operation.

I would sort out the wheel cylinders first so that you can bleed the brakes properly. If you replace the master cylinder and then find out all you needed to do was bleed it properly you'd be annoyed.

The 1998 Felicia L [facelift model with grille] that my mum used to have had a rev counter.

This is a brilliant thread.

It is an original Skoda relay and it's for the intermittent wipers. The GL [which had the Rapid dashboard] and Rapid models had intermittent wipers with 3 delay periods using a switch on the upper dashboard. The relay was incorporated into the switch. Other [Estelle] models with the 1 piece dashboard and intermittent wipers, such as 120L5, 130LSE among others had only one delay setting and it was controlled by the relay you photographed.

No apology necessary, I can understand your frustration. The garage should be apologising to you.

It maybe gearbox oil coming up through the speedometer cable if the gearbox breather is blocked or if the gearbox has been overfilled. Sounds odd, but it's not uncommon on the Felicia.

I work in a garage myself and this sort of thing upsets me too. The garage trade has a bad reputation because of garages like the one you describe. It makes things much more difficult for decent garages.

This will almost certainly be caused by a failed brake master cylinder leaking internally. They rarely leak externally in my experience. Seal kits and/or new master cylinders are available from Skoparts International. If there was a problem with the brake servo or the vacuum hose that goes to it the symptom would be the opposite, a rock hard pedal.

I'm currently fitting an Alfa Romeo 2.0 Twin Cam engine into my battered old Estelle, known by many as The Shed. Should be fun, though it's always been a lot of fun with "normal" Skoda engines!

Can you show us a photo of your carb? The original Jikov will happily idle at 0.3% CO if everything mechanical is sound, but it will idle at it's best at between 1 and 2% CO and also reduce hydrocarbons.. Weber carbs need to run a bit richer, usually between 2 and 3% CO.

Heater matrix is a small radiator in the heater which is linked with the engine cooling system, air is drawn through it to create heat in the cabin. Most cars have this inside the car behind the dashboard so when it leaks it leaks on the carpet and requires the dashboard to be dismantled to replace it. The Favorit/Felicia heater is under the bonnet making matrix replacement easier and you don't get antifreeze soaked carpets if it leaks, great design.

I love the fact that you're at least as sarcastic as me! [said with all due respect and in the nicest possible way of course]. I would walk on tip toes but I'd probably fall over!

With all due respect and in the nicest possible way I tend to agree with what adurer is saying. But, if it really is lower on power than it should be I would check the ignition timing, check that you are getting full throttle [cable adjustment] and that the 2nd choke on the carburettor is operating at full throttle/load. The 136 engine with higher compression has a little more power than your 135 engine, if you need more power without spending a fortune it may be worth fitting one.

Is there no drivers side? Do you loose coolant? Maybe a heater matrix leak. If so the inside of the screen may become greasy because coolant will be blown up on to it. Do you get wet carpets? Maybe rain water leaking in, windscreen leaks are common.

My car has all the mod cons, even has indicators that flash so that you don't have to turn them on and off on and off on and off...

I had a magic tractor. It turned into a field.

I look after, service and repair several rear engined Skodas from the 70's, and 80's. They have low tech, old fashioned OHV engines that take 20w/50 oil. I need something good quality but reasonably priced, these are hardly racing cars but these special old heaps need protecting! I understand the difference between cheap and value for money. Feel free to post your reply here, private message me or email me at [email protected] And Merry Christmas from me and the Skoda Owners' Club G.B.