ckyliu

Ditto, got a Sanyo one in 70s yellow that's still going now! But that's Hong Kong (which is not China, believe me I should know, I'm not this colour because my liver failed), the electrical standard is entirely British, including use of the British 3 pin plug. Even the road signs and markings are British there. All depends what it is and what market it was built for (if they were built for export they tend to be a little more robust, electrically); I'm generally talking about appliances that pull quite a bit of current/power, as I said, heater elements for commercial deep fat fryers are a favourite to burn out quickly, can't take UK voltages (they last okay in China). That's the opinion of my father and he was an industrial electrician. Low drain appliances are generally fine but the transformers sometimes get a bit hot (I have this problem with my backup USB 3.0 drive, daren't leave it unattended because I think it's a fire risk!).

Maybe they could spend less time dancing like idiots and more time trying to issue me a sodding debit card. At least 3 attempts now, if not 4...

Have to be careful with electrical things from China, the company I work for has done a bit of importing from there and they tend to fail in short order in the UK if they were built for Mainland China where the voltage is (legally, technically and anything else either) 220 volts. Heater elements are a favourite for failing, tend to work for 2 or 3 months before dying.

The airport hasn't changed in years, and lots of airlines still fly there. Possibly not with 747s so much these days, but you still get widebody jets in the form of A330, 767, 777 and even the odd A340.

Chips Away, Stephanie, M: 07771 564993

My Dad used a Chips Away girl based up near Sheffield. She did a good job with quite a serious gouge to the bumper, and when it started bubbling up he called her back and she redid it free of charge. Workmanship was good and so was the colour match, although I think he only had the car for 12-18 months following the repair, but at any rate it held water when the car was returned to the lessor. I'll speak to him and post up her details for you.

One of the few things I remember from my time studying law is that no such right exists; legally speaking an advert or price label is just an invitation to treat, it does not represent a binding contract being offered for acceptance. This is a well established fact in the English legal system through case law, (if you're really interested you can Google for Partridge v Crittenden (1968) and also Fisher V Bell (1961), these are the cases which the defence would use should you take a case like you described to court). The "offer" is made when you get your money out at the checkout and the "acceptance" is when the cashier takes that money; legally speaking they're entitled to refuse whatever you offer, in spite of any adverts, signs or labels. One of the reasons adverts don't constitute contracts is that otherwise the person placing the advertisement may find themselves in a situation where they would be contractually obliged to sell more goods than they actually owned. However, for less valuable items (in a shop for example) you can always try it on and say they have to sell it at the price displayed, the staff may not know any better and you can grab yourself a bargain! There is an exception to the rule, known as a unilateral contract, where if the conditions stated in the offer are met than a contract has been accepted (I think this is called acceptance through performance). An example would be those offers that say "if you don't feel better after using X product for 2 weeks, we'll give you your money back!" (again if you are bored, the case for this is Carlill v Carbolic Smoke Ball Company (1893)). Here endeth the lesson

All digital cinema stuff is at least 2k, ideally 4k (and I believe some of it is 8k). You can convert 35 mm film to 4k, that's generally how most digital cinema projection works, rather than being filmed natively in 4k

Why didn't I put a bet on! Grr! See if the rest come true in due course I guess.

On the basis of no evidence or thought whatsoever I wouldn't be surprised if any of the following faced trading difficulties over the next 24 months (all seem vulnerable, please correct me if I am wrong): Argos, DSG Group (PC World, Curry's, Dixons), Waterstone's, Max Spielmann, Blockbuster. Nice little article at the BBC with the damage tally so far: http://www.bbc.co.uk...siness-13977255

Their wash technique is all wrong; Sponges, rotary motion...

Superb finish on that IMT, how long did it take you do it all?

It's only a small jump from that to "Co*k, P*ss, Partridge" or the benefit of the swear filter "Cook, Pass, Babtridge

There are contingencies to deal with corrupt data. It's known as alternate flight control law, and a further diminished mode known as direct law, which activate in a variety of circumstances including the event of erroneous data from the ADIRUs (Air Data Inertial Reference Units, of which there are 3) to the FACs (Flight Augmentation Computers, of which there are 2). There are 5 actual computers that move the flight control surfaces (ELAC/PRIM x3, and SEC x2) and 3 hydraulic systems behind them (Green, Blue and Yellow, which is actually 1 more than you get on a 737). Whilst I fully accept that not having the side sticks mechanically linked makes for a lack of visual and tactile feedback as to the other pilots inputs, the fact is that the flight crew on the Air France A330 failed to react promptly and correctly to the alarms that told them the aircraft was stalling and instigate a recovery. There is a standard procedure for dealing with air data failure on the A330, in which you fly a specified attitude and power setting that will guarantee you remain within the safe flight envelope. The throttle input is perfectly visible if you are not using A/THR (Autothrust), they work pretty much like normal throttles then. Same goes for the flaps, it's just a handle like it is on every other airliner, no fancy tricks involved.

Thank you for all your suggestion chaps, having researched the products a little more I've got the Cherry Glaze as it's on offer at £5 for 500 ml from Autobrite Direct, and some German applicators. Will probably get some Zanio Z-AIO for myself though.

All 737s have hydraulically assisted controls but there are no computers involved. The 737 MAX will have limited fly by wire for the spoilers only. The engines on -700 and later however are FADEC (which is basically FBW). Not sure I believe those figures, they seem a little squiffy to me; what should be measured is fatalities per million flight hours, because if you measure per flight then stage length comes in to play. Also the 737NG (that's the -700, 800 and -900) are missing from those stats, despite the fact they've been the current production models for over a decade. And all EU flights being on the 737 Classics (300/400/500) is patent nonsense, most are on the 737NGs (e.g. Ryanair, SAS, Air Berlin) or A320s (e.g. easyJet, BA, Iberia, Lufthansa etc) although there are some 737 Classics still knocking around. Never heard about the 737's control reversal issues then? Or the fact that human error is the cause of the majority of fatal airliner accidents? Even if the flight controls on the 737 themselves aren't computerised, many other systems are anyway (including the engines). I'm not trying to big up Airbus or put down Boeing, and you are of course entitled to your opinions, but I don't think your comments were particularly fair on an airframe that has sold in the thousands.

Thank you for this tip, finally got rid of the SRP marks on my window rubbers, body rub strips and wing mirror mounts (I created them when I first started out with this detailing lark!)

My Dad is a pain in the arse to buy for at Christmas, but this year he has indicated that he would like some nice polish. However, I know he won't want to wax afterwards, so he'll need an AIO, and it mustn't mark plastics or trim as he'll want to use it on his motorbikes as well as the car. Application will be by hand. Suggestions very much appreciated as always chaps! I did have a look through some old threads but not sure anything there would quite fit the bill, 'cept maybe gTechniq C2? PS: I know previously he was using something called Acrylic Crystal Glo on his bike fairings and he quite liked that, especially since it didn't leave a residue.

First time I've needed the ice scraper this year and it started first time, almost immediately, even though I forgot to wait for the glowplug light to extinguish!

I've been interested in the Co-Axial movement ever since Omega first introduced it, how'd you rate it in terms of reliability, accuracy etc?

Really odd, I've used MyTyres twice (first in July 2011) and always paid by credit card. No complaints about the service myself, they were dispatched quickly and the price was good; I've never needed to get in touch with them.

I don't think the 452 is in production any more, surprised they're still available tbh. Most places are selling 453 now so far as I can tell, and I've not heard much about them. I'm sticking to the Rainsport 2s for now, Vredestein Sportrac 5 is getting a good write up so I think it'll be between that and the 453 when I need some new rubber, if the 453 turns out to be any cop of course.

Suggest you look at the tyres section of the forum: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres/ The Rainsport 2s are good but quite noisy and gosh they wear fast when fitted to the front, it's a soft compound. Mind you, the older Eagle F1s are no better in that respect.

I've got Deep Blue T100 DayNight Diver with Green and Orange T100 tubes (most manufacturers only use T25, not sure about Tawatec but only other company I know using T100 is Ball) and the lume is simply out of this world. I found a lot of watches to be poor in marginal conditions (e.g. driving), where the lume is too dim to be seen against background light levels but that same light is not enough to illuminate the face. The T100 is actually bright enough for me to find the door key hole on an evening! Certainly easily read in the car at any time. They don't put out any radiation as it's low energy beta so it can't penetrate the glass capsules the tritium (H3) is sealed in. A friend who is doing a Physics PhD tested it with a Geiger counter it doesn't register above the background count. Useful life expectancy is about 15-20 years on the T100s I think. T100 v T25 lume My friend has a Tracer Diver with T25s and that's probably fine for most use, but the T100s is an order of magnitude brighter. You do pay a premium for Tritium lume though and not that many people do them, both apply even more so for the T100s.