soupafly

BossFox, balance of the remainder now sent by instant bank transfer to your account. I'll pm you my postal address. Thanks

1. BossFox 380 x 8 2. vRS19TD - 300 x 1 3. dbg400 - 400 x 1 4. devonutopia - 300 x 1 5. Kev @ Jabba - 300 x 1 6. MartynVRS - 400 x 1 7. Fitz323 - 400 x 1 8. V6TDI - 400 x 1 9. j0hn - 380 x 1 10. lfc958 - 300 x 1 11. soupafly - 400 x 1

Oil dilution is common in diesels and doesn't seem to be a problem for the lubrication properties of the oil, provided you stay well within the service schedule (I would personally opt for shorter, fixed interval servicing given my driving profile and having read this paper http://www.nrel.gov/vehiclesandfuels/npbf/pdfs/44833.pdf). Take a look and it will explain that the addition of biofuel to mineral diesel oil has resulted in a larger proportion of fuel oil infiltrating the engine oil, thus diluting more. The most important thing in my mind is to make sure: The dealer fills oil level somewhere between minimum to medium level on the dipstick (never to max) to allow room for oil dilution Check oil levels on a regular basis and ensure that you do not run the engine if the oil level exceeds max (there have been cases where engines self-fuel themselves with very high fuel levels and rev uncontrollably/cannot be stopped. Don't worry about oil not doing its job, this paper indicates that diluted oil performs sufficiently well as a lubricant.

The aromatic parts of diesel are volatile (hence you can smell them) and they evaporate off at engine temperatures. So, I'd say a 'sniff test' is not a reliable indicator whether diesel has infiltrated the sump oil. A better check would be a viscosity check.

Oops, I missed your earlier point regarding your preference towards petrol.

2wd Mazda CX-5 diesel gets good reviews in manual or automatic. Worth trying both small and large wheel variants to find which suits best.

VCDS sold to phsroberts pending payment.

I still have one brand new, unused, unregistered genuine Ross-Tech VAGCOM for sale if any parents of Yeti's are interested.

Provisionally sold to JCP, subject to payment.

'Fraid so brijo. My back has been getting worse of late which makes getting in/out of the car more painful. Need to stick with a taller seat height. Shame because I really liked the Yeti and was so looking forward to the Velux.

Apologies if this is not the correct place to make this post. A change in circumstances mean I will not need this item. It is a BRAND NEW, never used, never registered VCDS which was purchased through this site on a recent group buy. This item is brand new and in it's original packaging with unused serial number for registering at Ross-Tech for lifetime technical support. I will also include the original receipt from the original authorised seller. I am selling for the same group buy price I paid: £230 including mainland UK delivery by Royal Mail special delivery. Please PM me if interested.

Apologies if this is not the correct place to post. I have a full set of Genuine Skoda Yeti carpet mats in black that are still in their protective wrapper. A change in circumstances mean I'm not going to be needing them. £40 incl. mainland delivery. Please PM if interested.

II meant to say another, not smooth!

You could always take a 'test drive' in soothe 1.2 dsg which will clear up whether it is your driving style or your car.

Cheers TP. I won't bother getting excited then

I ordered mine at end of February. The latest in the saga of build weeks is that it currently is showing week 34!

I can clear up the moisture thing but not the low temperature stuff. Adding water to the combustion chamber increases power output (or conversely can reduce fuel burn for the same power). It is essentially due to the vaporising of the water into steam, builds pressure in the combustion chamber providing some of the work in displacing the piston and hence the crank. The energy needed to vaporise the water is taken from thermal energy from the combustion of fuel, so it lowers the temperature in the combustion chamber. In gas turbines, this means a further benefit because less exotic materials and cooling air reduction results. It does change the emissions though. Some increase whilst other species decrease. I know this technique is used on some 'exotic' gas turbines and some of SAAB 99 turbo's. This site mentions its use in racing engines. Personally, my gut feel regarding the drop in fuel economy I see (it only has to be sub 7 Celsius before it is noticable) is because of factors such : the engine temperature never reaches the summer temperatures on my 20 mile typical journeys, meaning that oil viscosity is a little higher, more internal engine drag and smaller clearances (thermal expansion) on moving parts. I think the main hit however comes from the increased fuel viscosity changing the injector fuel spray pattern. The diesel engine efficiency and emissions is sensitive to this. Lower tyre pressures (because the air inside them is cold and contracts a little) Anyway, I've never it noticed it so much on my other cars as I have in my CR-V.

Slightly off topic I know, but has anyone noticed their diesel yeti economy has improved during this warm spell we're having? I currently drive a cr–V and it's economy swings (careful Bondage) as much as 4 mpg between the coolest winter days and the warmest days

Like you, I was intrigued and test drove one today. Here are my findings http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/238920-a-yeti-alternative/page__view__findpost__p__2809028

BobDog caught in action here:

They could have just parked up in Swindon on a Saturday night!

Well, I thought I'd post my experience of the Mazda CR-5 having had use of a Sport 175bhp diesel, auto, 4x4. These are my subjective views formed from a bit of research and a 90 minute or so drive. I'll start with the best bits: The engine is really rather nice. Quite simply in terms of driving experience, it is the best diesel engine I've experienced........ nuff said! Reliability is currently unknown. The radio/sat nav is nice and high up It has mdi interface It has an easily accessible joystick command for the stereo, but this is really not that necessary The ride position is taller than the Yeti The cruise control shames that of the Yeti (and other VAG cars I have tried. Reversing camera is useful (trailer hitching) Fuel consumption at 30mph is good....... creeps up to high 40mpg. I could imaging with some manual throttle control on a level road, you should get 50mpg even on this new demonstrator The negative bits: The chassis is not so good. Get it on the right (wrong) road surface and on some bends it feels like it twists and the car creaks and ever so lightly rattles. I was more aggressive with the Yeti and did not experience this. Think of an old Saab convertible scuttling around bends. There isn't enough customer choice. Personally on paper, I'd go for a 150bhp diesel auto 2wd Sport but with smaller wheels but no such choice or option. The auto box is nowhere near as good as the VAG DSG. Suspension is nowhere near as good as Yeti. Pick the typical potholed urban road surface at about 30mph and it is unpleasant. Also, it doesn't like kerbs. The 19" wheels don't like kerbs. No Velux roof option Fuel consumption at 70mph is not better than the Yeti........... about 36mpg on cruise control Average fuel consumption when I got in the car was 33mpg........... a long way of the official combined figure of 51mpg Engine reliability is currently unknown. There are too many electronic gismos (but these can be turned off) The sheet steel bodywork is so thin compared to the Yeti (that's where much of the 340kg lower weight over Yeti comes from). It almost rings when you tap it and it is very easy to move/press in. You can even twist the tailgate. I don't know if the Yeti does this, but maybe I was just getting carried away today. When you release the fuel filler cover from inside the car, it 'pings' like a bell (thin metal) The radio screed seems smaller than the Bolero After an hour, even though the seats which felt comfortable at the beginning, I was developing back pain. I managed 4-5 hours in the Yeti without pain. (I do live with a spinal injury) Quality inside the cabin falls some way short of the yeti. Some of the trims are not well thought out and very thin materials have been used (check out the black plastic cover behind the rear view mirror). When I was playing with the static showroom model, I expected the demonstrator model to rattle and squeak. As I said it did, over certain surfaces and on zealous cornering. They don't use a Haidex unit it's their own. It won't be as good. (basing on Honda's is rubbish, Haidex is good, Mazda's auto box is not as good as VAG). The car's lead acid battery is larger than a HGV's battery (I kid you not). One man will not be able to lift it out. The dealer told me it weighs half the weight of the engine....... I can believe it. I bet that will be a special mazda only purchase at around £500 So my question to myself is, would I rather buy one of these in auto and put up with all the negatives so that I can have that one big positive..... the engine? I am a person who hates rattles with a passion and that chassis would become annoying over time. I also want this style of vehicle to be super comfortable, taking on any poor road surface, sleeping policeman etc without jarring my back. I think I've come to my conclusion. Dear Skoda, if you're reading this, please can you befriend Mazda and put their diesel engine in your(my) yeti but don't let them sell you their gearbox?