LB123

Both TB and MAP/temp wiring is low resistence and connected. Nothing to earth. There is a high resistance link between map plug wires 1 and 3. Reads 2.5 when the scale is on 200K ohms. I think this is an anomaly. Readings are wiggle resistant.

MAP/temp/TB wires checked already. I will investigate at the ECU and the throttle pedal. Wino if you could post ecu pin numbers functions that would be a great help. Thanks.

Tuesday evening it happened again. Warm start. EPC light. Check engine light. Hunting. RPM 1100 to 1300. This time I found the accelerator pedal did nothing even when floored. Also for the first time noticed the ASR light was also on. Did a few restarts and after five minutes just the check engine light and the car drove fine. Same set of fault codes.17961,17912,18265, 01314.

Next time you have a chance can you look and see if yours is the same. Easily visible without any dismantling.

Strangely enough half an hour ago I was sitting by the roadside with the charcoal cannister in my hands in my ongoing quest to find an 'airleak'. For the 1.4 16v car and I'm guessing all the petrol Fabs there are two bayonet connectors on top of the cannister, one going to the filler pipe and one going to the purge valve in the engine bay. Only valve in the system is the purge valve. (On my car its closed when the ignition is off). No solenoid or valve on the cannister, just a 5+mm hole in the bottom of it, next to the mounting bolt. No Valve in this hole on mine. I can suck and blow through it! Seems that the fuel tank vapour space is sealed at the filler cap but can passively suck and blow through this hole in the bottom of the charcoal cannister at will. So leaves the petrol fumes in the charcoal when blowing out and clears them back into the system when fresh air is sucked in with the purge valve open. I was going to ask on here if this was normal. But two of the highly regarded posters above don't seem to have come across this. Certainly a significant airflow if you bypass the pipes round the purge valve. Not sure that is a good move.

You can take down the 'RUNNING IN. PLEASE PASS' sticker in the back window. (Anyone else remember those?)

That's a neat and clever trick. Be neater if he cut the ends short and square!

Crankcase breather is fine. If I block the throttlebody end of it, oil filler cap in place and apply vacuum to the camcover vent the engine holds vacuum! So no leak there. I can only conclude the MAP or throttlebody are faulty in some way. Might try the local scrappies for replacements. Sods law. The car of course is running fine with no faults showing. Thanks for all the help even if it has only managed to rule out stuff.

Both hold vacuum for five minutes pulled off the back of the carb and attached to a mityvac. Also confirms servo diaphragm and oneway valve are good. Will test then again with more vigorous waggling but I know they are good. The car has had recurrent EGR, inlet leak codes with engine light mostly on for over a year with very little effect on its drivability. Finally found an air leak in the servo hose and fixed it 4 weeks ago. Then after a month of no problems, 6 days ago I got CEL/Engine light/Hunting and undrivable after a restart at Tesco. Five minuters later and two restarts the CEL went out and it drove home fine. Baffling. Deleted the codes next morning and its still fine and code free.

There's a minute of idle. Did a quick TB & EGR adaptation which didn't make any difference to the figures.

I note it did report 459 probably while accelerating so going outside limits briefly is probably OK. Pretty sure mine will look much the same ruling out the MAP sensor.

All me. Idles at a steady 680 when hot. I will do an idle log.

Did seem to leap around. Snap throttle produced momentary drop to 700+. VCDS gives 200 to 420 as the range but I assume that would be for steady states? Or maybe it should never go outside that range and it does both below and above. Might be time for a new sensor but they are not cheap and I would take your advice on that. Temp sensor matched CTS when cold and did sensible things so that part is fine.

Hmm. I don't know what I'm doing. Log for how long, when driving, idling, reving on the drive or what??? This was on the drive, up to temperature, and a couple of dabs on the accel pedal. Has this shown anything or should I do some defined routine?

OK

Wiring to MAP looks good but will strip a bit more of the loom to check. Will do a log of MAP & CTS tomorrow. Thanks for the ongoing help. Past threads, https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/454924-evap-emissions-test/?tab=comments#comment-5111253 and https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/437485-egr-adaptation-fail/

Had the inlet manifold and crankcase breather off last year and cleaned both. New pierburg EGR then as well. Will give the crankcase breather a blast. Then clout the EGR and do an adaptation which should check it's working. Thinking about a new OE MAP sensor but not convinced its duff. Did clean it in August. Then I think its taking a sledge hammer to the whole car! Really is getting to be a pain.

After 300 miles warning light free I'm back with the usual faults. Plastic part of vacuum servo hose on 1.4 16v BBZ had split producing 17961,17912, 18265 and 01314. Replaced the hose early august and fault free. Returning from Gym last night stopped at tesco for spuds and on restart it was hunting and trying to stall. Moved off very juddery and cut out, EPC and engine lights on yellow. Wouldn't bump start with the momentum of the car. Stopped. Switched off and on. Restarted but hunting 700-1100rpm. Switched off. Waited a couple of minutes while I thought of what to do. Tried a start. All fine. EPC went off. Done 20 miles since with car working normal. Scan Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.lbl Part No: 036 906 034 DF Component: MARELLI 4MV 5020 Coding: 00031 Shop #: WSC 13765 VCID: 59B2F764C320348C03-4B36 TMBND46Y744131231 SKZ7Z0D2523094 2 Faults Found: 17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals P1553 - 35-10 - Implausible Correlation - Intermittent 17912 - Intake Air System P1504 - 35-10 - Leak Detected - Intermittent Readiness: 0000 0001 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 6R0-907-37x-ASR80.clb Part No SW: 6Q0 907 379 AB HW: 6Q0 907 379 S Component: MABS 8.0 front H03 0001 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000000000 Coding: 0000005 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 VCID: 7DFA83F427C828AC4F-5140 2 Faults Found: 18265 - Load Signal P1857 - 000 - Error Message from ECU - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 41 Mileage: 117247 km Time Indication: 0 01314 - Engine Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00101101 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 41 Mileage: 117247 km Time Indication: 0 Servo and purge pipes checked and hold vacuum. I did check MAP and throttle body in august and reseated them with RTV sealant. TB and EGR adaptations done and OK Aug. Cam belts and tensioners look OK although they are due for a change. Codes deleted and haven't returned. I'm at a loss. These engines seem ultra sensitive to and suggestion of unmetered air getting through the engine. The block breather has a wire going to it suggesting it is controlled by the ECU. MAP is original. Can I test either with VCDS? What else???? Car really is being a pain.

Maybe the quote above by yourself made the OP feel that this was not a very friendly site. However I can't say I'm desperate to know if the bookcase did get safely transported. The consensus was that it would fit in there OK. So sort of assumed it would.

If it's a PD 130 engine the first thing I would suggest is to run VCDS and check on the 'torsion angle'. The angle between 'ideal' alignment of cam timing and crank timing. Being beyond limits would affect starting and all that smoke when it finally fires could just be excess fuel.

An antiroll bar effectively reduces grip on the end it's fitted, the intention being to change the balance of the car (for the better). Rear ARB will loosen the back end. I would start out on softest setting to avoid getting suddenly surprised by massive oversteer in the wet. Explore the handling and see if the rear end is to your liking. After an adequate trial 'shorten' the arms and try it again. Repeat as required. This way you get used to its effect in easy/non shocking stages. Down to your car and driving style where you end up setting it but preferably not in the hedge.

You could make your own. Buy a 'pair of gas strut end fittings 10mm ball' from ebay to suit your car and experiment with scrapyard struts till you find the right length and power.

One usefull thing I did whilst waiting for the switch to arrive was to locate and clean underbonnet earthing points. I found four bigish ones, three on the passengerside inner wing and one on the driverside. Last scan full autoscan found no faults at all. Unusual for this car!

New switch finally arrived. Sorted. Interestingly the insides of the old one are just like a TV remote. No mechanical parts. Just a circuit board and silicon overlay carrying 'carbon' contacts which short the various contacts. Couldnt find a fault but a clean of each shorting button would probably work. However it's in the bin.

If the new switch doesn't sort it then I will have to look at the driverside window module. Doesn't the convenience unit play any part in window operation?