neil_f

I have revo software on my tsi. Went for revo as I'd used their software on previous cars with no issues. I wouldn't get hung up on power figures. ..agree that 275bhp is rather optimistic for stage 1 map. I would have thought about 250bhp is more realistic. I told the dealer mine had been remapped but now do my own servicing as I've used up my free services. They cannot just say you have no warranty cause it is remapped. If a fault occurs then they have to prove it is the modification that caused it. Dealers too often use it as a get out.

I had free servicing on mine initially and told the dealer it was remapped and not to do any ecu updates. Happens quite a lot these days ...heard of various people with bmw, merc, audi getting car back after a service and the map has been removed due to software update.

I find pcp deals are generally only good if you do a low mileage. Most of the deals advertised are usually based on 10k miles per annum or less. I generally do over 20k a year. Monthly payments rocket when you start increasing the mileage.

Don't think the abs is a problem anymore but I did have the aircon compressor replaced on my 2010vrs just before the warranty ran out. I've not had any other issues with mine and it's done 55k in just over 3 years...been remapped for 35k of that.

I had the carbonspeed kit on my tsi. It looks great in the engine bay but ended up selling it as I didn't notice any difference (my car has stage 1 map as well), im fact I noticed a slight flat spot when accelerating gently in the mid range. Refitted the oe airbox and the problem disappeared.. Whilst i never had any issues with water ingress I didn't use it in the winter as the filter is in direct line of spray, grit, snow etc. It gave slighlty more turbo noise but wasn't excessive. If your buying one for performance gains then don't get your hopes up. Even if it gave you say five hp gain, would you honestly notice that in a 200bhp car.....I doubt it. I certainly wouldn't pay two or three hundred pounds for one. I got mine for 120 and sold it on again for the same price.

I usual the original 18" alloys with winter tyres on. Wheels are still like new after 3 years and 54k miles. Just clean them at least once a week and even clean the inside of them every time I wash the car as well. Alloys will only corrode if they get damaged...ie kerbing etc. Don't understand why everyone says that they get "ruined" over the winter. Couldn't put up with the look of steel wheels on mine!

Happens to any make not just Skoda. Grit on the roads in the winter will make it happen sooner. Good luck claiming under warranty. You going to claim for every bolt etc that starts to rust in that case??

I used H&R coilovers on mk1 leon cupra r that I used to have. Agree that out of all the coilovers I have experienced. .bilstein, kw, eibach....the h&r were the most comfortable and were less "crashy" than the oe suspension. I did 76k miles in two years in that car and various trackdays. The handling on track was amazing but overtime I did find them tiresome on the road. I eventually changed to eibach springs and eibach dampers. For fast road use (ie bumpy scottish country roads! ) this setup was far better. With the h&r setup the occupants would get jolted about a lot more. Personally for road use I would not go back to coilovers if comfort is a main concern. I realise my opinion is based on a different vehicle before everyone shoots me down! Would advise getting dampers matched for the springs as well as I originally tried the eibach with the oe cupra r dampers and it was horrendous. Would love to experience rob_e car with them on as it does look great but live rather far away to make this possible!

Drove through a couple of blizzards near Perth today and frost forecast tonight and also next week so definitely keeping winters on just now.

Going to leave mine on until the end of the month. Still been icy early in the morning and last year the snow didn't really hit until March. I just know that if I swap back to summer tyres it will snow and I'll be stuck somewhere!

I've just driven to York and got 40mpg sitting at 75mph...2 adults and one baby in the car along with a full boot. I usually get between 400-440 miles out a tank of mix driving. My car also has a stage 1 remap. Have noticed if you do a lot of stop/start driving in town the economy really plummets. Was driving round Glasgow the other day and maxidot was showing I'd only averaged 18mpg until I got on the motorway!

I've got thule aero bars on my petrol vrs and there's hardly any wind noise upto 80mph. Not really noticed any difference in fuel economy either

I bought a charcoal filter from ecp when I changed mine. Can't say I've noticed any difference over the standard version.

Why pay that much when you can get it a lot cheaper. I only paid £77 all in and everything is as new with a new brand name tyre. Still think it is ridicilous that new cars don't come with a spare wheel/toolkit anymore. My octavia vrs was the same but thankfully the previous owner had specced a spare wheel from new.

I got an oem toolkit off ebay for £29 delivered and found a 15" spare wheel with correct size tyre for £48 delivered. Wheel is second hand but never been used and tyre is new Firestone. Far cheaper than buying from the dealer. Worth searching about.

Will try and get some if it ever stops raining lol!

The ones I got are the same as these but from a uk seller. I've also wired two in the back of my wife's fabia monte carlo as interior lights due to therw being no rear interior light. Work a treat. Soldered the connections in both applications as don't trust scotchlock connectors.

There's a switch next to the fuse box in the Monte to turn them off.

I got a set of these a couple of days ago and have fitted them. Looks superb.

I was going to fit an led strip above the backdoors to provide light in the rear. Wiring seems to be different from what has been posted brown/black earth red/black permanent live yellow/brown door switch I might be being stupid but when I checked with a multimeter the door switch input is at 12v when the door is shut and then drops to 0v when door is open. This means the light works in reverse?

Wife has replaced her corsa with a monte carlo. 2011 1.2tsi 86hp silver 19k miles Options centre armrest maxidot bluetooth climate side door moulding cruise

That's why I do my own servicing. I was told the spark plugs would be extra on mine as they aren't due till 60k. Bought genuine oil filter and then all other parts from euro (air filter, castrol edge oil, spark plugs and pollen filter). Cost me under £100. Don't think paying another couple hundred pounds just to have the book stamped is worth it personally. My car is three years old and I keep all reciepts for work done with mileage noted on it.

If it is down to finances then obviously the diesel makes more sense . I test drove both before buying my tsi. Having had various diesels over the last few years the cr diesel is good but I was getting bored of the narrow power band and they take a lot longer to warm up in the winter. I covered 24k miles last year in my 2010 tsi. Usually get about 430-450miles from a tank. Best I've managed is just over 500. I've had mine remapped and it's great.....love being able to rev an engine now. Petrol also feels less nose heavy. Interestingly when I did an insurance quote for both the diesel was only £30 cheaper

I've always bought my kits from hids4u. Used them in 4 different cars and 2 motorbikes without any issues. There not the cheapest at £90 but always believe you get what you pay for so am wary of buying kits of ebay for a third of the price hence why I think I'll go down the route of the sportzblue bulbs. Not doing it for looks...just want brighter lights.

thanks but I was already aware as I've used them before. Not been stopped by police or had an mot issues with them either.