Adz_VRS

Motorsport don't run BOV's or dump valves. Boosts typically regulated via external waste gates; depending upon strength of springs inside of them they react the same way as our own recirc valves and they "flutter" under pressure. Prime examples would be WRC cars. Those cars turbos are designed to boost straight away and to be fair; it doesn't matter about 'stall' on them as the fuel being pumped in (anti lag) keeps the exhaust side spinning regardless. But in hindsight Motorsport teams rebuild engines/turbos between rounds so make of that as you will : )

Motorsport don't run BOV's or dump valves. Boosts typically regulated via external waste gates; depending upon strength of springs inside of them they react the same way as our own recirc valves and they "flutter" under pressure. Prime examples would be WRC cars. Those cars turbos are designed to boost straight away and to be fair; it doesn't matter about 'stall' on them as the fuel being pumped in (anti lag) keeps the exhaust side spinning regardless. But in hindsight Motorsport teams rebuild engines/turbos between rounds so make of that as you will : )

Try checking for loose connections/connectors and corroded grounds if the fault is intermittent. I used to get this problem on my other halves Polo and that ended up being a corroded through ground. Good luck solving it though : )

+1 for compressor spec equal size compressor wheels both inlet and exhaust will result in high RPM comming onto and maintaining full boost. A well balanced hybrid for your use may consist of a inlet compressor smaller than exhaust I.e K03s inlet wheel or very slightly larger coupled with K04 exhaust side. This has the same effect as up gearing a car/4x4 with larger tyres. The larger the exhaust wheel, the quicker the inlet compressor spools generating positive boost earlier hence boost before 4k rev band. However an unbalanced turbo (cheap eBay stuff) could be as suggested lazy as the wheels may be too equal in size to give you any chance of a quick spool regardless of the 360degree thrust bearing! Supporting mods like injectors are neccessary to maintain air fuel ratios for good combustion within the cylinders. However upgrading the MAF to a 3" will help the car drastically cope with the neccessary fueling trims etc it's probably worth a mention also that have you fitted an upgraded N75 valve as per the 225/250 engines? Doesn't this control the boost regulations for the 1.8T? BTW im just generalising here - sorry if my info's some what no applicable Adz

I've just deleted my SAI and to be fair, my cars still doing this also. It's a strange Feeling whilst accelerating, it will go first of all, come under load, the car than flat spots, recognises the call for more boost/power then accelerates again. To me it feels as if the boost regulator is delayed or the actuator/watergate is periodically sticking. It's very weird tbh. I've Also removed the N112 and N249 valves - dunno if that's worth mentioning

What a nightmare mate! It's a Shame you never bought the turbo from the same place. Its a typical case of one party not taking responsibility and back heeling responsibility : ( give Chris a shout at universal turbos. These guys are the dogs.

Oh well - simple and embarrassing fix - air flow sensor was the wrong way round pmsl I bow my head in shame

Thanks Kent phil! You know what it is, I spent the best part of an hour and a half looking for that particular build thread last night! Couldn't find it for love nor money! Cheers for that : )

Agh guys, you's are gents! I'll give these bad boys a go instead lol Ta V.much : )

Raf/David - I'll try this tomorrow and report back. I'll also get the chance to whip the beast in VAGCOM too so fingers crossed that'll have it sorted : ) Gee - 330ohm 10W resistors fitted into all 3 connections. However I wasn't sure if resistors have to be put into the connectors a certain way I.e positive and negative - I'm no electrician lol

Good lad! That's DIY for ya! I've recently been thinking about sourcing them from scrap yards - gonna keep my eyes open for a Volvo S40 or likewise and have the side markers front and back off one. That'll give me 4 to play with complete with holders and partial wiring loom. Then as mentioned, make a template and just go for it lol I was just holding out to see if there were any "direct" or "universal" ones readily available on the market for us. I'll let you guys know how I get on if I can source a knackered old Volvo to get them from : )

Never touched the throttle body at all - which reminds me that I need to clean it out and when fitting the cold air intake I didn't have to unplug the MAF sensor so can't see that causing the issue either : ( Cheers for the input though guys : )

Hi guys As per title - I now have my traction control light on my dash after removing the SAI, N112 and N249 valves. I must admit, while the car was in the air on axle stands, I turned my ignition on and steered the wheels of the car to full lock one way- then off with the ignition - the on with the ignition again and full lock the other way. This was only to gain access to the torx bolts the the wheel arch while fitting my CAI. Yes I forgot to Loosen the wheel nuts off before putting the car on axle stands lol. I'm aware tht certain car manufacturers go through a bleeding process similar to what I've accidentally done when changing/repairing a steering rack - do you guys think I may have reset something to do with this or have I interfered with something else whilst removing the valves? Any input is greatly appreciated : )

I love how clean this car is! Excellent choice in mods too. Good on ya fella : )

Surely if the recon turbo has a warranty and the said garage took off your old turbo and refitted your new one; you should therefore be entitled to a PARTS and LABOUR warranty. You SHOULD NOT be dishing out more money to rectify this issue. I work in a garage and retail environment and we would cover you in this instance to the point the manufacturer determine the outcome of your warranty claim. Pay on credit card? Dispute payment until issue is rectified ; ) Of course I'm assuming your a totally innocent party in this matter

Hey guys. I know this mod isn't to everyone's tastes but can anyone help me with sourcing these? I gather they are a retro fit - does anyone know how to fit them? Thanks in advance Adz

Cheers Bowders that's ace! Definitely the one I've seen and I'm after so kudos to you sir : ) Your car looks brill BTW

Hi guys I've seen a few Vrs' with a rear diffuser. Now I love this look and I've been trying to find one suitable but I need a bit of guidance please. Superskoda have one listed specifically for the VRS Saloon however they do not have any images of the item in question : ( So before I spend my hard earned cash on something that I can't see, can anyone confirm a link to the part in after and if possible a picture of one fitted as I'd like to see it also. It's also worth mentioning that I'm open to any brand not just Milotec! I just mention them as its all I can find : ( Ta very much in advance Adz

As above +1 on DV (if you have a forge item buy a recon kit - theyre about £15/20 - I suggest this as you may need to replace the rubber seals - they've probably went brittle over time as you tend to cook the valve where it is unless you've carried out the cold air relocation mod?) Robs guide is also brilliant for locating and removing vacuum/boost lines. Follow his link and start removing parts : ) Also are you sure the DV's got louder? As your loosing performance I'd imagine you'd here the boost leaking as the cars under load- this will make the turbo noise sound very loud as the pressure escapes - if this is the case and the DV's fine you may have a boost pipe split somewhere on the system

Sounds like a real shame for you mate. I come across this type of issue all the time at work. Mappers are 10 a dozen mate and probabably 1 out of the 10 actually really know what they're doing. To impress inititially most "cheap" mappers just wind up the boost far beyond any recommended amount - in sure they think this gives them the edge over more expensive maps! Issue with this is it's a ticking time bomb! Transmission will suffer horrendously, leading to expensive repairs.coilpacks start to break down causing the hesitation under load/boost, the car will suffer knock to dangerous levels and we won't mention how all over the place the fueling will be as your MAF tries to cope. I'm my experience, guys with laptops that come to your home/place of work should be avoided unless they are using franchised and well known software such as REVO. For all you know that mapper could have done as mentioned on here already- went onto eBay and bought a cheap software file from there and put it on your car! Vauxhall lads know all about this as most of them try mapping their cars themselves via eBay software. Why people do this is beyond me : ( Anyway I'm sorry it sounds like you've been stung; I and I'm sure the rest if us hope you get it sorted and the map hasn't caused any lasting damage. Adz

Another red man here but hey hoe I'm biased lol

Resistors as promised http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/high-power/0160382/?searchTerm=Resistor%2Cmetal+cased%2Cpower%2C10W%2C5%25%2C330R&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E44656661756C74266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C7061727469616C26706F3D3926736E3D592673743D44454641554C545F534541524348267573743D5265736973746F722C6D6574616C2063617365642C706F7765722C3130572C35252C333330522673633D592677633D4E4F4E4526

I'm a Milltek retailer mate, if you get in touch with them directly, mentioning the fact that your an active member on this forum with a build thread I'm sure they'll help you out of offer to fix the problem at a very reasonable rate. After all it's all about brand awareness and Milltek have an excellent reputation. We've carried out warranty work for them a few times in the past and the customers were the 2nd or 3rd owners with no receipts. Shy bens get not; pick up the phone and talk to them - do not email them its easier to whey up your situation over the phone- they my be more empathetic towards you ; )

Here you go dude - no pictures but it all makes sense : ) http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-sai-n249-and-n112-removal/page__view__getnewpost

Hi guys I did this mod today; definitely straight forward enough to do! Not for the faint hearted though! Especially removing the egr and loosing the coolant. But I'm no mechanic so it shows you can do this yourselves people : ) I fitted a CAI while I was there too - this was actually more frustrating than the entire valve removals. I used the very useful guide in the tech section - even without the images the steps all made sense when physically carrying out the job. Just make sure your wearing your brass pair when you dive in there. A confirmed items list: • 13mm deep socket • 10mm deep socket • 5mm hex socket • A considerably larger one for the SAP bracket - cant remember size sorry. • I used a bendy socket extension - you WILL at least need a 90 degree knuckle joint • G12 coolant • Forge EGR Blanking plate • 1 meter of 4mm vacuum hose silicone • 3 x 330ohm 10w resistors - I will post link a big thanks to Rob for pointing me in the right direction here : ) • 2.5mm high temp wire approx 1 foot will do you don't need much • 2.5mm heat shrink to cover solder joints • soldering iron • solder lol • axle stands • hydraulic jack • electricians tape • a reliable flat headed screw driver to remove the awkward original hose clips • Stanley knife to remove vacuum original vacuum pipes from hard lines - mine had melted to the pipe work do couldn't be pulled off • a box to put all your parts in • finally a hell of a lot of patience and elastoplasts on stand by lol I think that's it guys. For me the tools were the only stumbling block and the job took do much longer because I had to find these as I went. But as most whom have carried out this mod have said; it shouldn't take you any longer than 3 hours from start to finish even to an amateur like me : ) I hope this post helps you other guys out : ) Just bite the bullet and dive in Adz