R_U_AFA
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Posts posted by R_U_AFA
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If you do decide to change the ECU. I don't think you need to use re-programmer, or immo delete unit, if you can get a ECU + set of keys and possibly the immo unit, (ignition barrel as well if you don't want to use new key as a immobilizer fob) all would have to be from the same breakers vehicle.
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How common are Felicia ECU failures?
Can only really remember recalling one topic about it on here.
I'd deffo check the hall sensor wiring and connectors for continuity.
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17 hours ago, Bernardor said:
..everything, except something that goes near the synoptic panel and which I think is the immobilizer control
Yes that's right you would need this to start the MPI engine with its original key.
I believe there are ways of fooling the ECU into starting without that unit, but I don't know how. (Immobilizer emulator?)
17 hours ago, Bernardor said:yes, I have it separately
What engine was removed from the pick up, 1.3 carburettor? Or 1.3 spi fuel injection?
If it was the fuel injection engine it should be relatively simple to switch over the fuel + engine management system to the MPI engine.
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How much of the MPI engine do you have?
Do you have it's ECU? Wiring loom?
What about the pick up, do you still have it's engine with its components?
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Me thinks somebody's been lying at DM Keith's Wakefield.
Just removed these spark plugs from car after it started misfiring.
These are supposedly only 2 years old with 7000 miles on.
They were supposed to be changed with turbo.
But IMHO it looks like they haven't.
But failing that they were supposedly changed at a previous service anyhow.
I'd say these have never been changed and are the originals.
Of course I can't prove that they weren't changed but from years of working on engines I would say they hadn't been.
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Well it does work, but doesn't recognise the car as a VAG group vehicle.
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Thought I'd jump on the back of this thread.
I'm wanting to check for stored fault codes on a 1.2tsi Octavia3 (yr13)
This is what I use on my Felicia, and also used it on octavia2
Just wondering if it'll work on Octavia3
REMEMBER
I'M ONLY WANTING TO READ FAULT CODES NOTHING ELSE.
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Oh, If you've got the rocker cover off, check the push rods. That's another simple one.
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I agree this is a puzzling head scratcher, I also agree with your summations as well. You obviously know your way around an engine.
I can't really see the engine seizing due to corrosion in such a short period of time but it's possible.
My initial thought was clutch friction disc stuck to flywheel, but it can't be that.
So,
Some thoughts:
I nearly suggested this yesterday, but just wondering if it's a ancillary component on the auxiliary belt that has seized, i.e water pump, p.s. pump. Maybe check to see if the belt is super taught at some point, or remove it completely.
My other thought is if something is jamming the flywheel, mabey for some reason hall sensor fallen apart? or a clutch diaphragm spring arm snapped off. (Both very very unlikely)
Of course there are numerous components in the engine that could jam or seize, too many to list and even if it is one of them, it would probably be cheaper to replace engine than repair.
Sometimes going simple is best so I'd Check drivebelt and/or plenty of WD-40 or some Redex down bores. And see what the results are.
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I wouldn't try starting it on the starter again untill you can turn the engine by hand
How long since you last had it running?
3 hours ago, Skodle said:Starter began to turn then stalled.
Do you mean starter just stopped turning, or the car lurched forward as if the car had been left in gear then the starter stopped.
How much can you move the road wheel by hand in either direction? Zero, a few mm, a couple of cm.
I'm making an assumption it's the 1.3 petrol engine.
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Could be worth checking gear selector shaft, o-rings are known for wearing out.
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I'd say it sounds like a 1st,2nd synchro or selector fork issue.
But hopefully not.
Best way to test engine/transmission mounts is just to grab hold of engine and give it a good shake and rag it around, and see how much movement it has.
The square shaped mount doesn't do too much in way of damping, but it is the one that seems to wear the most.
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Thought my way seemed way too easy.
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Well charged it today, seems to have survived ok.
Just out of interest, would my originally proposed idea have worked for a 6v battery?
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Ok, I'll use them 2 on the fronts, I'll have to make sure I don't get them mixed up when fitting them.
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Wait a minute, I think I may have slipped up and this is a 12v battery anyhow.
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Just bought some 2nd hand 13 inch Felicia steel wheels, and and have noticed a couple are 5 1/2J ET36 instead of the 4 1/2J ET38 ones I currently have, the tyres are same 165/70 13's
I've used a wheel calculator and understand the difference in width/offset.
I'm just wondering if the car will feel any different on them. I can't really see that there will be any difference in contact patch size, because the tyre width is the same.
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I've got a 6v motorcycle battery that I need to charge, but my current battery charger is only for 12volt car batteries.
Now if my memory serves me right I can adapt this charger by creating a lead between positive and negative with 2 resistors of of the same value, then taking power for charging from between the 2 resistors, which should be 6volts.
Am I correct here? Or have I just made this all up.
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https://www.megaparts.eu/en/product/1488668057
Used them before, with no issues.
Also keep watching the item, because they regularly have up to 40% off offers, bit like autodoc do.
Again no way of knowing if the gears inside are ok though.
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Probably cost more to have original one repaired, than cost of a new unit.
Also the motors have plastic gears inside, which can be easily sheared of their shafts, so yes you would have to be careful if buying a 2nd hand motor from a vehicle breakers.
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Posted at the same time as I replied
I suppose easiest would be to pull the radio connecters block to see if noise goes.
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8 minutes ago, robchap said:
Someone asked if it has a tape player - and the answer is yes it does! However it seems fairly well secured and some distance below the area the noise is seems to come from.
It was because I've had mine randomly go into play mode, even though theres been no cassette in.
And this issue wouldn't be stopped by removing fuses or relays.
My only other guess would be that it's the stormtrooper on the dash😆
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Don't suppose you have a tape deck radio fitted?
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Well you can't get it into the tank now even if you want to.
How to remove Favorit rear shock support tube?
in Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman
Posted
It's always been loosely fitted on the threaded portion on the ones I've bought.
Think you've got the right idea though to remove it, mabey a little lubricant also.