R_U_AFA

Possibly an alarm, either factory or aftermarket?

So with the pipe repaired, and engine fully up to temperature. At idle the purge valve solenoid is constantly being energised, rapidly fluctuating, and opening and closing (repeatedly) roughly twice a second. This seems excessive? Also interestingly with the pipe broken and open to the atmosphere, the tank still pressurised.

Just thinking I haven't checked for a blockage in pipe from the valve to manifold, so will have to check that aswell. Of course this happened while removing the pipe, Arrh why plastic😠 and not rubber.

The pressure is only building whilst driving, because I opened cap last night, then again this morning and there was no pressure. I say pressure as it only seems to be about 0.3 bar, it seems like there may be a relieve value somewhere in the EVAP system (see bellow) I was able to replicate the pressure in the tank by forcing air back into EVAP line, but it wouldn't go above 0.3 bar. No fault code for the purge valve, and it does have an arrow on it suggesting that it may be one way. Tested it and it doesn't pass air either way, but this was with the engine off, so it shouldn't anyway under that situation. So at this point I'm concluding that either, the valve is operating correctly, but when opening allowing manifold pressure back to tank. OR The valve is never opening, so never venting petrol tank vapours. (But I believe this scenario should throw a fault code) I'll have to take the car on a longer journey to see if I can get the value to open and repeat the tests.

Thinking on it, I've already pressurerised the inlet manifold and found no leaks, so it can't be going backwards. Although that was with engine off, so solenoid should have been closed.

At first I did expect a vacuum, obviously due to fuel usage, but it's definitely pressure, because it blows the cap off. I've seen the possibility of an EVAP system fault already, of course it looks like the charcoal canister is hidden behind the rear wing somewhere, and not in the engine bay. Which way do you think it might be: Solenoid valve not opening to suck tank/canister vapours, Or pressure being sent back to the From manifold to tank/canister I've already located the draw from canister to intake manifold, so will remove that with engine running and see what happens. I do get intermittently and randomly "lean off idle condition" fault code.

1.2tsi Petrol 13plate Octavia. I can't help but notice that there seems to be a lot of air pressure in my petrol tank. It's like this if it's been 3 weeks since opening, or 1 day. Does anyone else get this when removing the filler cap. Both videos were taken on freezing days, so I can't really see how it is built up fuel vapours. VID20260115135536.mp4 VID20251217171151.mp4

To me it, sounds like damp under the HT rubbers, and the spark arching to the engine block.

An update: The new gear started to slip on the shaft, so I've now drilled it and inserted a pin to stop this. It has introduced some free play / backslash, so the wiper now doesn't do a full speed of the rear window.

You can't really see it in the video, you can hear it "pop" better. You may just see that the key position is still in lock position. At the same time the alarm is disabled, and the other doors are also unlocked. VID20251110134327.mp4 And I promise there isn't anyone pulling the leaver next to the drivers seat. I know It's not like some of the more upmarket cars nowadays, where the trunk rises with opening, but as Papez said, the factory system has the second button option but is pointless, so maybe skoda had thoughts to this, but then didn't bother.

System in action, I meant to post this ages ago but I forgot.VID20251110134101.mp4

Thought I'd tag on to this thread, because I can't find anything specific regards brake flare (s) / brake pipe flare flaring on the Felicia or favorit. I'm guessing the tool was something similar to this one. I must admit that using this tool (was less than £10 on eBay) I thought that It would be useless and I would have to have the flares redone, but no they sealed ok. I admit that it doesn't create the exact DIN type bubble flare skoda use they but they seem to work ok, with no leaks. I did do a few test runs on some old pipe first. I found that letting the pipe pertrude a little more than the kit states gave better results. Not quite the same bubble flare, but as the union is tightened down it seems to finalize the flare and seal tight. As you can see this is the same problem I had, and why I needed the brake pipe flaring kit. I'm very pleased with the results, and saved a bit of money, don't know what a mechanic would charge to flare the pipes but it'd be more than the tool cost, and I would've had to remove the pipes from the car and take them to the workshop.

Thought I'd revive this thread, I also need to change my drop links, but there seems to be 2 types; A pressed steel type which I currently have fitted Or a solid steel rod type Both are 335 mm long, but surely the solid ones are stronger. What do you think, change like for like, or use the solid type? Car is a 1.2l, 13 plate, hatch.

I'll confirm that the port arrangements listed in post #9 are as if sat in drivers seat. Found an old pic showing the rear most port's pipe going to front left.

I'm getting "content not viewable in your region" for the diagram in post #11. Is this the same for everyone else? I know I used to be able to see it, I thought I'd saved it, but I can no longer view it. Obviously describing which wheel as left or right could be confused, as to which way you are looking at the vehicle i.e from the front or from behind, I know general practice is to describe left and right as if you are sat in drivers seat, but I want to make sure.

So changed plenty of bearings on the rear of the felicia, and they always have the cavity between the 2 sets of bearings packed with grease. Now I have also always done this aswell because it's how the first set I did were done. (Monkey see monkey do) But I can't see any real need for it as seen as there are no friction surfaces in there, it seems a waste of grease. My only thoughts are that it helps cool the bearings, or if they do get hot due to lack of lubrication it would melt into the bearings. Any thoughts, how does skoda recommend lubricating the bearings? The bearing cap tends to have the same treatment aswell, although I haven't bothered putting grease in there.

Here's the new abs cable bracket I've made up. Fitted With cable routed I made one for the other side, but it seems that I forgot to take a pic.

I don't suppose you got the emission figures (maybe on a print out) from the exhaust gas testing machine. Might help narrow it down.

Spent ages findIng this, I seem to be missing a bracket, part 10 in diagram. Looks like it's held/clamped in place by the strut pinch bolt. No chance of finding one of these, so looks like I'll be having to manufacture one.

Can someone post a pic from under under the front wheel arch on a ABS model. Trying to work out if the ABS cable at this point needs to clip onto something. Maybe I'm missing a bracket, or it's possible that it's like that because it's just a generic ABS sensor.

After fitting the standard boot, the split CV boot does save a LOT of time, and your back as these hubs are heavy and take some manhandling to get the driveshaft back in. So in conclusion I can't really give a definite answer on whether to use a split boot or not, just that the quality of the one I used was dubious.

It's quite hard to see the spit in the pic But there is some degradation of the rubber, with cracks. So a replacement it is. What a pain that was to replace, nothing seems simple on these cars, well not compared to the Felicia anyhow, on that the CV joint just taps off, it can generally just be pulled off by hand. I'd have never have thought off separating the joint this way so a special thanks goes to the creator of this vid (probably a well known trick, but I was stuck at this point) https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Dod2wfj76iFQ&ved=2ahUKEwiDkfHr7q-OAxWnaUEAHTD9KOgQwqsBegQIDhAF&usg=AOvVaw0a-I16l4haAwJ4cSjkt737 I'd have given up and been searching eBay for CV joint puller tool right now.

After a little cleaning it's only a little pin hole split, I could have probably fixed it with the glue that comes with the kit, but my father thew it away.

So as promised an update: It would seem that it has started to leak again, by the looks of it part of the glued joint has separated. But even the rubber of the boot seems to be degrading after just a year. I'd say that they are only good if you need a quick fix, say for a last minute MOT pass, or if the driveshaft can't be split due to seized nuts, otherwise there's no point. Now I've got more time, I'll be fitting a normal one.

I've ended up butchering a front motor for its gear, because all the used rear motors online already have broken gears. It required some cutting of the gears, but once cut down I threadlocked it onto the rear motor's wiper spindle.