R_U_AFA

Yes that's right you would need this to start the MPI engine with its original key. I believe there are ways of fooling the ECU into starting without that unit, but I don't know how. (Immobilizer emulator?) What engine was removed from the pick up, 1.3 carburettor? Or 1.3 spi fuel injection? If it was the fuel injection engine it should be relatively simple to switch over the fuel + engine management system to the MPI engine.

How much of the MPI engine do you have? Do you have it's ECU? Wiring loom? What about the pick up, do you still have it's engine with its components?

So trying to find a courier who will be able to collect and deliver a beam axle from Wittenberg Germany to the UK. The main problem I'm running into is the sheer size of the item most companies don't accept items over 1.2meters in one dimension, but also sometimes I will find one that accepts large items but then refuses due to weight limit. I don't suppose someone has had success with large/heavy international delivery? I have had 1 successful quote but at £450 I think it was a little too much. Probably could drive there and back myself for that.

Me thinks somebody's been lying at DM Keith's Wakefield. Just removed these spark plugs from car after it started misfiring. These are supposedly only 2 years old with 7000 miles on. They were supposed to be changed with turbo. But IMHO it looks like they haven't. But failing that they were supposedly changed at a previous service anyhow. I'd say these have never been changed and are the originals. Of course I can't prove that they weren't changed but from years of working on engines I would say they hadn't been.

Well it does work, but doesn't recognise the car as a VAG group vehicle.

Thought I'd jump on the back of this thread. I'm wanting to check for stored fault codes on a 1.2tsi Octavia3 (yr13) This is what I use on my Felicia, and also used it on octavia2 Just wondering if it'll work on Octavia3 REMEMBER I'M ONLY WANTING TO READ FAULT CODES NOTHING ELSE.

Oh, If you've got the rocker cover off, check the push rods. That's another simple one.

I agree this is a puzzling head scratcher, I also agree with your summations as well. You obviously know your way around an engine. I can't really see the engine seizing due to corrosion in such a short period of time but it's possible. My initial thought was clutch friction disc stuck to flywheel, but it can't be that. So, Some thoughts: I nearly suggested this yesterday, but just wondering if it's a ancillary component on the auxiliary belt that has seized, i.e water pump, p.s. pump. Maybe check to see if the belt is super taught at some point, or remove it completely. My other thought is if something is jamming the flywheel, mabey for some reason hall sensor fallen apart? or a clutch diaphragm spring arm snapped off. (Both very very unlikely) Of course there are numerous components in the engine that could jam or seize, too many to list and even if it is one of them, it would probably be cheaper to replace engine than repair. Sometimes going simple is best so I'd Check drivebelt and/or plenty of WD-40 or some Redex down bores. And see what the results are.

I wouldn't try starting it on the starter again untill you can turn the engine by hand How long since you last had it running? Do you mean starter just stopped turning, or the car lurched forward as if the car had been left in gear then the starter stopped. How much can you move the road wheel by hand in either direction? Zero, a few mm, a couple of cm. I'm making an assumption it's the 1.3 petrol engine.

Could be worth checking gear selector shaft, o-rings are known for wearing out.

I'd say it sounds like a 1st,2nd synchro or selector fork issue. But hopefully not. Best way to test engine/transmission mounts is just to grab hold of engine and give it a good shake and rag it around, and see how much movement it has. The square shaped mount doesn't do too much in way of damping, but it is the one that seems to wear the most.

Thought my way seemed way too easy.

Well charged it today, seems to have survived ok. Just out of interest, would my originally proposed idea have worked for a 6v battery?

Ok, I'll use them 2 on the fronts, I'll have to make sure I don't get them mixed up when fitting them.

Wait a minute, I think I may have slipped up and this is a 12v battery anyhow.

Just bought some 2nd hand 13 inch Felicia steel wheels, and and have noticed a couple are 5 1/2J ET36 instead of the 4 1/2J ET38 ones I currently have, the tyres are same 165/70 13's I've used a wheel calculator and understand the difference in width/offset. I'm just wondering if the car will feel any different on them. I can't really see that there will be any difference in contact patch size, because the tyre width is the same.

I've got a 6v motorcycle battery that I need to charge, but my current battery charger is only for 12volt car batteries. Now if my memory serves me right I can adapt this charger by creating a lead between positive and negative with 2 resistors of of the same value, then taking power for charging from between the 2 resistors, which should be 6volts. Am I correct here? Or have I just made this all up.

https://www.megaparts.eu/en/product/1488668057 Used them before, with no issues. Also keep watching the item, because they regularly have up to 40% off offers, bit like autodoc do. Again no way of knowing if the gears inside are ok though.

Probably cost more to have original one repaired, than cost of a new unit. Also the motors have plastic gears inside, which can be easily sheared of their shafts, so yes you would have to be careful if buying a 2nd hand motor from a vehicle breakers.

I'd say it's very much like that. It gets a bit cold around 2-3 in the morning, but stick electric fire on for 15mins, and it takes cold out of the air. Anyhow in a b&b tonight, with a proper bed and everything.

Where I'm sleeping tonight.

Yes, already doing that, but it's not enough for Saturday. Also it's all about charging the right price and getting the work, although I don't really want to do the job anyhow. It's Saturday nights that are the worst £80-100 for hotel(although I've spotted a bed in a hostel for £30) Unlike Sunday night, I'm ok for, got a room for £25. I Seriously considered sleeping in car last week, but I think floor was best option, an old duvet and my dust sheets, wasn't particularly cold or anything, just missing a mattress.

Same again this Saturday? Slept on building site floor last week.

@nta16 Posted at the same time as I replied I suppose easiest would be to pull the radio connecters block to see if noise goes.

It was because I've had mine randomly go into play mode, even though theres been no cassette in. And this issue wouldn't be stopped by removing fuses or relays. My only other guess would be that it's the stormtrooper on the dash😆