Jabozuma

^^^ Well worth joining here Glad it got resolved and you got a large amount of money they tried to con you off of. On a side note it clearly shows how useful, informative and helpful are comments from vxh26 on this forum... take a hint and do yourself a favor.

That was supposed to be my next tyre but decided to go and try khumos.For that price Vredesteins are a no brainer, if I had some free cash I'd have bought four on the spot right now!

*runs to the car to buy a pack of fags and a bottle white lightning with a cast iron intent of redlining my vRS even in reverse* EDIT: *thinks black box would go well with my ankle tag, gotta keep up the chav central massive, yo!*

Densos will be my next plug of choice, simply to see how would they look after I abused them compare to NGK's

DQ200 a.k.a. dry 7-speed DSG box as mated to 1.4 twinchargers is taking 400bhp from those engines with uprated clutch packs. Those skilful Greeks run 300bhp twinchargers as daily drivers with no problems. Even Gen2 1.8TSi should be able to beat this I did my reading about AVS in that SSP pdf. What it is they are doing in reality is nothing new and has been done for ages. The simply do it in a very complicated and round about way. What AVS achieves is a tighter control on of exhaust gases by controlling scavenging and back flow using valve timing. This had however always been done with a correct exhaust design where pressure and sonic waves rebounds as well as pulsing was sued to first of all help evacuate exhaust gases quicker, use one cylinder exhaust pulse to help another with exhaust gas evacuation and then control back flow and charge loses with correct flange design, exhaust runners diameter and length. Due to packaging restrictions and mostly environmental issues this is no longer possible really so they went AVS. This system has a great tuning potential since effectively you cn be running and switching between two cam shafts depending on the load. In real world it means a car with low emissions and perfect everyday driveability but when you stomp on it it would switch to the Big Daddy Lobes and turn it into a rocket ship. Cam switching being controlled by ECU gives more potential for ECU tuning. Reprofiled camshaft with exhaust designed to take the top end (since lower end performance or everyday driving is dealt with by AVS) and you are laughing. 500bhp with 60mpgs or more lol.

I had to delay throttle application in the second to last corner due to missing the apex as otherwise I'd have had hit the last cone. I love that Whiteline RARB, car is steerable and what is more important very predictable and gives very good feedback, she lets me know I screwed up long before anything happens

Good one, I will leave it like that as I cannot be bothered to recode the vid again! Perhaps will add in comments

And chasing James http://youtu.be/iSpBn0kZVWM

Finally got around to uploading my fast lap vid to YouTube. Apologies for low quality and noisy soundtrack. I only kept it as it allows to hear the engine, otherwise I'd have replaced it with some nice music "My Little Ponies" I added some comments as well https://youtu.be/Y6lGVSKS74M

I'd also expect cams to be different - longer durations and steeper since in the same crank rotation angle due to longer stroke more distance piston covers. Getting off the shelf part would be cheaper but having a custom cams made would give the motor real teeth, but not too much as you need to drive on a daily basis. Race cams are unusable for road driving as they only work within a very narrow rpm band. Specialist will be able to advicse accordingly should chose to folthis line of development. In general I think 2.0 conversion should be a relatively straight forward one really.

I.e. a stroker kit

That is why we need Briskoda and knowledgeable members to get that info

In absolute terms it does not change. When you look at the whole vehicle geometry then it will change. Alteration to one wheel will have an effect on the chassis as a hole and will alter the spatial relationship of each wheel to the chassis at the same time albeit by very small amounts. They adjust it one wheel at time and this is why, because chassis moves and rear wheels do have suspension with movement independence the relationship of those back wheels to the chassis will be altered as well hence changing camber and toe reading at the back when adjusting one of the front wheels. So despite no adjustment being made the spatial reference of back wheels to the chassis changes or the chassis is "moved" via the front wheels adjustment. So, I agree with what you are saying that rear is not being adjusted as it has not adjustment yet the values do change.

I know and I see how this is impossible. Rear torsion beam has no camber adjustment whatsoever. You would have to modify shock towers to be able to do it so specific coil-overs are a potential solution if somebody would like to have this adjustment in mk2 vRS . I will need to think about it a little bit more, one thing I saw with my own eyes was that when they were adjusting the rods for the front toe settings camber and toe readings for the rear wheels changed as well on the Hunter machine.

When you put it this way I see your point now.

Brilliant!!! Must have been pretty low speed crash, with such a mass and hitting at orbital descent speeds half of the planet would be gone - gotta love StarWars astrophysics

Only fitting... the colour of mourning after a seson lost Thing is I love that colour scheme, all black with red accents was always my fav livery!

Perhaps I was not entirely clear, you cannot adjust the camber that way but while adjusting the toe the camber changes as well. I am not very good at explaining things at all otherwise I'd be making money from teaching people . If you consider two extreme toe positions of front wheels, max toe ina and max toe out the wheels not moving in any other plane will end up with a different actual cmaber settings i.e. the contact patch of the tyre will be at a different angle to the ground. This is as close as I can explain it.

Common thing as they mostly do not know how to use the Hunter alignment rigs. The key is to visually centre the steering wheel and lock it first before the machine is turned on. This is the only way to achieve a reliable and satisfactory tracking. Chap at the garage was boasting how he helps his track racing buddy to set up his car geometry for the track work while he was doing mine. I was waiting in the lounge while he was doing it. Paid, drove home, complete mess. Turned around, told him how to use his kit (wasn't too amused...) and hey presto, still runs well after a year and few track days . One has to remember that when the toe settings are being changed it effects the camber for both front and back wheels at the same time so with toe adjustment one can address camber issues as well. If you want the camber done you need to ask for it and it is usually twice as expensive as normal tracking.

Not 15 mins that Skoda charges i.e. they have more as the time needed to do them in their price list or it literary takes more than 15 mins? Undo one screw for the plastic hoses holder clip, undo another screw for another hose holder, pull all four coil packs with the correct tool, undo plugs with thin walled magnetic plug socket, put new ones in and do the initial steps in reverse. If you'd done it before it takes 15 mins. First time around an hour perhaps

£95 for plugs... Plugs on ebay, all four of them less than £30 and 15mins labor to change them all

Front can have both toe and camber adjusted. Toe is dead easy camber requires a bit more work so it is more expensive. There is no adjustment for the back at all BUT adjustment to the front WILL have a substantial effect on the back suspension geometry, both camber and toe so both need to be watched. Suspension geometry must be adjusted after ANY work was done on suspension. Lowering springs or coil-overs fitted require suspension geometry adjustment. Even whacking a noticeable pothole puts the suspension out. Looking at the photos the to out and resulting negative camber were massive. If you look at the tyre you will see the side wall being almost driven on, nicely worn. This is consistent with lowering springs application, especially where the car with stock susp was borderline already.

Just before Castle Combe with Motul RBF 660 using Gunson Easybleed. Before I had Gulf Competition RF1000 fluid. I need to do some more research into it and log brake pressures as it makes no sense. Pads and discs are capable of locking the wheels even booted with RS-R as it did happen on the track even when it was hot. It feels to me like the pressure applied via the pedal seems to be going somewhere else and not into the calipers. Feels like a bypass valve or sth lets it all recirculate instead of braking. I am absolutely sure there is no air in the system as I bled out 1ltr of brake fluid out of the system just to make sure. I need to go through the VCDS brake bleeding procedure to see if this has any effect. The problem is it is not consistent. I was driving for an hour earlier today and the brakes were "wooly" one way and rock solid the other. When they are "wooly" a "double tap" brake pedal application seems to firm them up suggesting air in the system... I am tearing my hair out here. On top of that I am afraid that if I spend money on some bigger brakes I will see no improvement since calipers/pads/rotors are perhaps not to blame but sth else in the system.

I installed Whiteline RARB in no more than 45 mins using axle stands and car jack. Plenty of vids on Da Toobe on how to do it:)

What is past the turbo is only fractionally important to what is between exhaust ports and the turbine inlet. This is precisely where most of the power resides or to put it in differently this where the engines are the most limited, mostly due to mass production cost constraints and space limits. If you look at the ground breaking Merc F1 engine they are using, wait for it, log style design of the exhaust manifold LOL. It can be done and they did it because they employed a mahoosive turbo which needed exhaust feeding it with the smallest possible lag also the shortest mani runners. They can afford it since electric motor spools the turbo up and there is no lag. With our motors it is much more important to have a very well breathing engine with optimal combustion characteristics (no excessive scavenging bordering on exhaust gas pollution) than min exhaust gas lag and we are not so restricted by the packaging as F1 is I would not go too wide past the turbo as this does lower the back pressure but most tuners found that narrower pipes maintaining higher post turbo exhaust gas velocities allow for better pressures balance as well as promoting quicker gas evacuation.