jeallen01

HI folks The new-to-us 2016 16V 1.2l TSI Monte Carlo has 45k miles on the clock (by the proverbial "one lady owner"!) and so the obvious "does it need a cambelt change?" question arises. Having read this thread, and particularly referencingbriscaF1's latest post, I rather confused as to whether it does, or whether the cambelt is effectively "fitted for life" of the car - so is anyone in a position to comment further? BTW: I found this thread to be relevant & interesting, but I'm still not convinced either way Thx in advance.

Thanks as that does clarify the situation. Wife is not sure if she would like one; so please could you point me to the seller of the one that you bought in case she decides that she does? BTW: we still aim to move out of this area in the next few months, and so, if she does, then I want to buy and get one fitted before we move to an area where we don't have "connections" that could do the fitting! Thx in advance.

As I mentioned in the thread I started yesterday about the data plate, wife has just bought one of the above, but we were surprised to find that it does not have a storage box/armrest over the handbrake - unlike the golfs we've had and my Oct 2. Therefore is/was this never part of the standard trim fittings, or was it an option that the original purchaser never specified? Thx in advance for any info.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH - and that also gives me a very good idea of where to look in future! 👍

Evening all My wife has (almost!) finally replaced her Mk IV Golf with a 1.2l 66kW 2016 Monte Carlo and I'm trying to figure out what some of the codes on the data plate mean, The top section reads as follows: TMBFM6NJ5HZ055263 CJZC NJ37J4 FABIA PED LF3K-8T8T BP 66KW CJZC So, I would be most grateful if someone could interpret the VIN number and the codes that follow that - particularly the text highlighted in colour ! (BTW: I've managed to interpret most of the 2 & half lines of 3 character codes below the above!) Thx in advance!

Thanks again, and so that looks like what I should buy! !

Thx. I did have a look at ebay earlier and think I saw that - but there were also quite a few "alternatives" at similar prices from various sources, and so I was somewhat "confused". TBH, I was hoping for someone to point to a particular oil and say something like "I've used this one a few times and it seems to work well and reliably" OTOH, I suspect that there's probably not a lot of difference between most of the "alternatives", providing one sticks to those from well-known major brands - but who knows?

Good evening, and a bit of advice if you would be so kind! I changed the transmision fluid at around 75-80k miles (just after I bought the vehicle) , but it is now at around 136k miles and the gearshift is getting a bit "sticky" when hot - so I guess it needs another change! Previously I used "genuine" VAG SG052171A2 but that gets quite expensive for the 3l needed (OK, seems it actually needs around 2.3l but you can't buy 0.5l bottles!), and thus I wondered if anyone has any recommendations for "another brand" of the "SAE 75W GL-4 spec" oil that appears to be needed - but is hopefully a bit cheaper than the VAG stuff? I've had a look around the forum but not found anything specific on this point, so thanks in advance for any info.

I agree about hard shocks because, on several vehicles over many years (several Mk II Astra SRi estates, Mk iV Golf estate and the current Mk II Octy estate (Bilstein B4's - too "much" with the VRS/GTI rear ARB so I then took them off & fitted used standard shocks - much more confortable!) , i fitted stiffer rear ones but then in every case had to remove them (even well before my back got as bad as it is now!) because the ride was too hard - maybe I've should reallly have learnt my lesson by now but I kept doing it! 😞 Personally, I think the "best" solution is moderately stiff springs with a decent amount of compression travel, moderately stiff ARB, adjustable rear shocks which can be set reasonably soft and maybe shorter than standard bumpstops (for reason previously mentioned). Of all those, I think the ARB is probably one of the most important because a stiffer one helps to restrict roll without affecting spring stiffness or spring compression too much. BTW: I could never justify slightly-lowered Eibach springs because I only really wanted the rear ones but could only buy a full set - which was too expensive (given other expenses at the time). PS: anyone want a used pair of B4's (& top mounts) for a Mk II Octy estate - been sitting in the garage for the last several years in W London and I need to get rid of them fairly soon? (and there's the pair of 1K0511115BG rear springs if anyone wants them)

Carlston In most circumstances I would agree that a 28mm reduction would be “a bit extreme” but, prior to that, it felt like there was virtually no suspension travel at all before it went “solid” – even a small ripple / very minor pothole would cause result in a real hit to my spine, as well as an audible thump! Therefore I took the decision to soften the springs, and to fit the 28mm shorter bumpstops as I felt that anything less probably wouldn’t give enough travel for the required comfort - that was based on my previous experience with shortened bumpstops on the Golf estate (and maybe I also fitted shorter ones to earlier shocks fitted to the Octy – can’t actually remember for certain??) . Remember also that the new Koni shocks are somewhat soft for the first few mm of travel but then stiffen up quite noticeably, and that I had fitted a VRS/GTI rear ARB several years ago and that had noticeably stiffened up the rear suspension on its own. And, so far (cross fingers) it seems to be working

Late to this thread and FWIW about the springs and damping aspect: Can I suggest that you consider fitting shorter bumpstops to the dampers; this will allow the springs more travel during compression before the bumpstops come into effect and - providing they are not too short! - effectively soften the ride. I had similar problems with my Mk II Octy estate and doing that plus somewhat softer rear springs appears to have made a considerable improvement to ride comfort and stopped a lot of crashing over small road undulations and speed bumps (see It would also be a lot cheaper than some of the other solutions - a new pair of bumpstops would only cost around £20!

Update As reported in another thread I started a week ago, I had to get the springs and other bits replaced by the local Mr Clutch branch (in Hayes, W London) and they fitted the pair of Killen 63117 (basically equivalent to VAG 1K051115B E/F according to the spec, and thus several "grades" softer than the BG ones that were causing a lot of the ride problems) and also a set of Febi 18380 bumpstops which, at 105mm long, are noticeably shorter than the 133mm ones which are standard for this vehicle, plus new top & bottom spring seats (and thus less compressed than the original old ones!). Nb: I'd fitted shorter than standard bumpstops with the Mk IV Golf estate I had before the Octy. That had stiffer rear springs and was quite stiff, but fitting the shorter bumpstops gave the springs more compression distance before they started taking effect, and certainly softened the ride - that's why I went the same route with the Octy this time around. As a result, having driven it over a few bits of moderate rough (by town standards!) local roads and several full roadwidth speed bumps, I'm glad to say that the ride is a lot more comfortable on road surfaces like that. On reflection, my ageing back getting worse apart, I think the recent Koni Special Active Rear Dampers together with the new 133mm bumpstops fitted at the same time had a lot to do with making the ride even "less forgiving" with the BG springs than it had been before they were fitted! Win some, lose some!

I very pleased to report that the Mr Clutch guy who was experienced in retapping threaded holes, but was off sick for the last week, finally came back this morning and then successfully retapped that hole, and then did all the work that I'd requested, and so I picked the car up this afternoon - and now, having driven it over some bumpy bits of road, the ride is considerably more comfortable for my aging and "damaged" back! As far as Hayes Mr Clutch is generally concerned, they do try to be as helpful and accomodating as they can - but "**** happens" from time to time, and this was just one of those times!

Morning (not Good!) and I need some help quite urgently! A few days ago I tried to replace the rear springs on the Octy but failed miserably because of age & arthritis and had to try to put everything back together, but in doing so managed to cross thread the hole in the wheel carrier into which one of the lower shocker bolts fits, and thus I couldn't refit that shocker at all! This time last week, I took the car into the local Mr Clutch branch (which has been very good to-date, I have to say) and explained, with diagrams & notes, what needed to be done - unfortunately, due their not having the thread tap until the end of last week and then staff shortages, they've been unable to even start the work to fix the problem (which also includes changing the shocker bumpstops for something shorter/softer)! Therefore can anyone here recommend a place in this locality who could take on the work (or take it on themselves)? NB: would need whoever does it to source a lower shocker bolt (and maybe 4x rear ARB bolts which could do with replacement) but otherwise I already have the other required parts (the springs, upper/lower spring seats, and bumpstops) The car can be driven gently for shortish distances but I wouldn't want to take it more than a few miles!

Thanks again, and I may well try to get the info from erWin (never tried that before, so "I may be a while"). As for the Mk 3, from what I read previously on this forum, I seem to remember reading that torsion beam was used on the models with engines up to 1.5l but multilink was fitted to those with larger engines (apart from, obviously, the 1.6l TDI) and thus I assumed that that was/is also used on the non-VRS/4x4 2l models .

Thanks again, but, although I took a pic of the build codes sticker and then analysed (line by line) each of the 2/3 alphanumeric codes on it, I couldn't pin down the spring type originally fitted - which was part of the reason I posted the update and asked for more help a few days ago. Also, as I asked several posts ago, were there any further changes to the spring type after the 2008 model update? I asked that because, last year, I had a rental and very late model (probably 2020/21) Octavia 1.6 TDI estate with torsion beam rear suspension, and found that the suspension "felt" very similar to the current setup on my own Oct estate, i.e. quite "hard", which surprised me somewhat.

When I replaced the original springs in 2016 there was no signs of any breakages - main reason for the change was because I'd been carrying a lot of heavy stuff in the load area for quite some time and the springs had been somewhat permanently compressed by that!

@Carlston Many Thanks and that's what I have now concluded myself as the car was registered in July 2007, and thus probably built well after the changeover date in early 2006 and thus originally had ...5BD springs. Don't think I want to go back to those ...5BD springs unless I get get the MAD Helper springs (another £150!) , so maybe the ..5BE would a decent choice, i.e. stiffer than ..5BD but not so still as ..5BF (and certainly a lot softer than ..5BG!). BTW: did Skoda ever make any further changes to the rear spring type prior to the major "model overhaul" in 2008 - and what then happened after 2008?

Having read the thread that I linked, then that's the conclusion that I also came to as the "..5BG" springs are definitely too hard for day-to-day use on the very poor roads we have in our part of London - OTOH, I may then have to get the MAD helper springs that someone linked in that thread as those might well provide the variable rate effect that I was seeking in my original post in this thread! BTW: having them looked at various other springs that claim to be "equivalents" to the OEM VAG "..5BF" springs that are on offer, it was interesting and confusing that some of them actually appear to claim to be equivalent the "..5BF" but others to the "..5BG"!!!! VERY confusing, and so I'll have to be very careful as to which ones that I buy!

FWIW, I think I found the info that I need in this thread "Sagging Rear Suspension"

Long time since previous update (& ignoring my original question and the directly related replies which are no longer really relevant - but thanks for those anyway👍) , the estate (1Z5 chassis) is now fitted with: - The original Std OEM front springs & Koni 8745-1006 Special Active Front shocks (+ new Febi complete top mounts & bearings) + std front ARB - Replacement KYB RH6788 rear springs & Koni 8045-1084 Special Active rear dampers + new FEBI 13078 rear bumpstop kit & protective cover + a Mk V Golf GTI 1KO 511 305 DF Rear ARB It drives and rides much more nicely and quietly than before (the old front shocks passed the MoT with no Advisories earlier this week, before the Konis were fitted, but rattled & banged badly over any sort of small bump!) - except for the rear end which still seems slightly too stiff and bangs quite a bit over small bumps I suspect that a lot of the latter is due to the KYB springs which I fitted in 2016, and which immediately felt to be a little "stiffer" than the previous VAG OEM springs (Which ever version they were), and probably aren't needed as much as before because I fitted the GTI ARB at a later date, and the new Koni rear dampers were fitted a few weeks ago Now, knowing a bit more about the rear suspension setup, I have found that the KYB RH6788 springs appear to be equivalent to VAG 1K0511115BG springs, and I'm wondering if that spec spring is stiffer than that of the springs originally fitted to the vehicle - but unfortunately I don't know what the latter actually were as I disposed of them after the KYBs were fitted! Therefore I wonder if anyone here does know, or can check, what the OEM rear springs are for a 1Z5 estate chassis with the "standard" L13 suspension spec ("Suspension range 13 installation control only, no requirement forecast, 631-670 KG") & 2UA (standard) height spec, & with the "55mm" damper size - & specifically if it might have been one of the 1K0511115BC to BF range, some of which appear to be slightly thinner coil springs (thus "softer") than the ...BG version? FYI, to help identify the springs fitted, the paint colour codes for the 1K0511115BC to BG springs appear to be as follows: Thanks in advance for any help or leads that you can give.

FYI, I quoted the exact words written by Trevor Leigh, General Manager of Performance Parts RFT (the Koni importer), in the email reply to myself a few days ago - so any "error" was his and not mine.

Not a very constructive or helpful comment, and not based on the actual vehicle and situation, I must say! Before getting those shocks I phoned the importer to question their suitability for my vehicle, and was told quite clearly that they were designed to, and would, work fine with standard springs and ARB, and also with the stiffer GTI/VRS bar - and the car is absolutely NOT "dragging its backside like a dog with worms"!

Cheapest places I have so far found for complete kits with ball bearings for both sides is between £38 and £48

J.R. Thanks for the quick reply and the explanation - that clarifies the situation! 🙂