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I’ve noticed on my Superb that when in ECO mode when I restart the car the gearbox defaults to the standard ‘D’ mode. To get the box back into ECO I need to re-select that mode. Is this a characteristic and anyone know why ECO on the DSG doesn’t stick on restarts?

Does it do with when you disengage clutch engage neutral above 50mph?

Yep I’ll give that a go. It’s been behaving my itself today. No big deal, just curious what others out there experience.

Gave it a scan, no error codes on this occasion. As I say it’s very intermittent when it occurs. Reminds me of how my automatic wing mirrors on the Mk7 golf sometimes don’t auto fold out until you fiddle the knob a few times and then they spring into life. I did have when I bought the car over a year ago as the programmable seat didn’t work, but after performing the reset procedure i fixed that and it’s worked ever since.

thanks for the info. Looks like I'm already on the latest controller: Part No SW: 5Q0 959 760 C HW: 5Q0 959 760 C Component: Sitzmemory H09 0024 Serial number: Y0006RHG19052 Coding: 0014000000000500018280808080000000008181000000D400 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00138 ASAM Dataset: EV_SeatMemorDriveSide 002022 ROD: EV_SeatMemorDriveSide.rod VCID: 3D2731766DFF5193E49-8068 I'll give it a scan to see if any errors show up.

It doesn’t always return to normal position after performing a reverse. If I nudge it back to its stock position it’s ok then next time, sometimes not.

I’ve noticed a few things about my Skoda I’ve never had on other VAG type cars. Wondered if it’s a feature of the Skoda brand. The first one is when I put my car in reverse, the passenger mirror drops as expected but intermittently it stays in that position and does not return to the normal position. The second is when another driver enters the car and selects their driving profile it doesn’t always engage the electric seat to their setting… again totally intermittent.

I (rightly or wrongly) put some copper grease between the piston and the pad even though there was that 3M sticker. Maybe that’s counter productive.

Ok thanks, I did a quick google and can see. I’ve had a mk7 golf previous and never had these issues and that’s with running Bosch parts. Annoyingly I even put more lube on the contact points to reduce squeal… maybe I put too Much on! I’m still going to jack it up and check it over as would like peace of mind something else isn’t a miss.

Hi all, I’ve done disk and pads on many cars stacks of times with no issues. However one thing I was aware of once I change the rear disk and pads recently. It happens when going forward reverse - coming to a stop so the auto hand brake engages - then as I move off in the opposite direction there is a momentary clunk/click. I almost wonder if there is some play in something allowing momentary movement. Or something like the pads are moving ever so slightly within their guides. I’m yet to jack it up and take a look at it. I don’t have any issues with the brakes other than this odd clunking noise.

Hiya, no idea what the job entailed, I just paid them £180 to do it.

Fair play ... my bad here - I did a google search and some random independent suggested it. I hear what you say about it being in there for the longer term - I shall not worry about it in that case.

Contrary to popular belief I reliably informed you can't actually warp car disks (well not that easy). The most likely cause is lateral runout on the disk. If you google you will find out more. Basically it's pad material sticking to the surface of the disk over time and it gets to the point where it's that bad you feel it through the pedal (if fronts are bad) or through your bum (if its the rears). Lateral runout starts to occur between 500miles and 5000miles depends on the severity of the issue. I've had this problem when new disks/pads were fitted incorrectly. If the disks to hubs that have runout above a threshold or debris/rust exist between the hub and the disk rotor... even the slightest crum, this is enough to lead to lateral runout developing. It's probably not helped if the car has been left laid for a while and rust has had time to corrode the disk beyond repair, making it uneven and they braking will be all over the place. Hope this helps.

yep, I went ahead and got a local independent to change the DSG oil/filter at 42k miles. The guy said the oil didn't look too bad. I can't really say i noticed any difference driving it. For me it was just for peace of mind. I treat every car like i'll keep it forever even if I don't

Hi all, According to guidance it's recommended this is done every 2 year or 30k miles. I've never paid to have it done or had it suggested to be done as part of any service. All previous VAG cars the same, never had it changed. My Superb is due a cambelt change in June and I don't know if with that the coolant is changed or not... but i'm suspecting not. Was wondering if anyone on here has ever undertaken their own coolant change. Is it straight forward enough to do? (I've only ever done a Toyota MR2 in the past and that turned to be a nightmare because of air pockets which causes idling issues... which eventually sorted itself).

I feel your pain dude!

This is my thoughts exactly

I don't know if i'm being stupid but i can't understand how in ECO mode that results in more brakes usage. Surely when you press it in any mode the results are the same i.e. its a driver input thing. I've tried eco mode and I don't use the brakes any different to what i would in any other mode. I get the absence of engine breaking when it slips into neutral but other than that... it makes no sense. Searching through the forum on this someone else had raised the same query on this. I don't know the previous driver's history of my car but I do use adaptive cruise quite a lot. I've always wondered how the braking system slows the car suddenly. Is it just using the motors on the rears to provide that slowing or is it doing it for all brakes?

Yes please explain what you mean by that. Is it similar to using adaptive cruise and it brakes for you (does it brake the back or all)?

yes i would have tried the old handbrake method by now only for the fact they are e-brakes. Have ordered some more pads and disks so will probably change the both.

Yeah the default dealer response hey.

Yeah I will probably change the disks to be fair. It's an extra faff I was hoping to avoid but it seems a shape to slot some new pads in for them then to become worn down by knackered old disks hey.

Hi Everyone, Since collection from a main dealer last September my Superb had a grinding coming from the rear brakes whenever applying them. I presume this was down to it being laid up for a small while before sale. A few aggressive braking sessions improved it but on heavy sudden braking it sounds quite loud dull sound coming from the rear of the car. The last time I heard this noise was back in the day when i had a Subaru impreza that burnt its pads down to the metal back plate! On closer inspection I could see my rear pads are getting low (5mm on pad surface at most) and the disks have an encroaching rusty border on the outer and inner diameter of the disk surface. I have another VAG car that operates perfectly fine and looks very similar in terms of the brake disk condition albeit on my Superb it looks a bit more advanced. There's no play in the wheel bearings so I'm comfortable it's probably not that. I was going to change the pads front and back as its fairly straight forward and see if that improves it, but but what do you think about the disks (one pictured below). My Superb is currently on 46,000 miles.

Yes thanks, i realise that - I just wanted to know if there was some way I can work out what the correct part is.

Hi All, In the past i've located a sticker in my boot that gives me the codes to determine the parts I need for my VAG car. In my Superb there is no sticker and I'm totally stumped as to how I find the correct brake pads and disks for my car... could be a 1KZ, 1KU or maybe not even those. Does Skoda secretly hide the sticker(s) in some place obscure these days or have they done away with that method? Other than calling a Skoda dealer (if they'll even help) or a motor factor, is there any way I can work out what this 3 character code is for my car?