Smart Pro

Apologies for the delay. Just measured it on the car and it is 12 inches from the back of the vertical attachment, to the front of the towbar ball. In terms of height, it is about 9 inches. Hope this helps!

Hi. Just seen this. It's currently off the car but will check later today and let you know.

Hopefully this fix will help but it sounds to me that the battery is not fully charging. When the battery voltage drops below a certain level, which normally but not always coincides with the battery warning light coming on, some of the more power hungry applications go into a sort of 'limp home' mode. Heater blower will stop and power steering will lose assistance for example. I have experienced this myself and it was battery charging related.

Sounds like poor connections to the battery / ground and / or the wrong battery for your particular car. Does it have stop / start and if so, has the correct battery (AGM or equivalent) been fitted? Double check the tightness / condition of the connections. If everything checks out there, scan for fault codes and take it from there. If there is an intermittent ground issue with the new door wiring loom, it should register a fault code.

This will be the cause of most water leaks into the cabin and it really is a case of seeing is believing! By that, it can be a bit of a shock when you see the mountain of debris, which has accumulated and is causing drainage water to divert into the cabin! It is reasonably straightforward to jack up the car, remove the wheels, insert the axle stands and then remove the wheel arch liners and is a job worth doing every year.

Glad to hear you managed to resolve the issue and sorry to hear about your health problems.

Did you resolve the issue, Trenchman?

I am assuming that you have not yet done a diagnostics check for error codes? If this is the case, try to get hold of VCDS, which should pin point the problem. If it throws up a code for the Mechatronics and assuming that the gearbox has not been serviced at the correct intervals, start with a gearbox service, replacing the fluid and filters. Remember to clear the codes afterwards.

You need to take the fuse box off its mountings, open it up and insert these leads from the back to the relevant fuse positions: There is a very good You Tube video by 'Lutz', which shows a complete tow bar install with wiring to the fuse box, which I recommend you check out. Sounds like you have done all of the hard work already!

As you know the item number (part number?), it maybe worth sending a message to The Towbar Store (https://www.thetowbarstore.co.uk/) They deal with different towbar manufacturers so could be able to track down the relevant part for you. Good luck!

Yes, indeed it is! Ah, I was assuming that you had the wiring but not the towbar metal beam that is bolted behind the bumper cover. I now see why you are having a problem sourcing the detachable bit of the towbar in swan neck version. You say you have the part number so was your towbar beam factory fitted along with the wiring, or was it retrofitted?

I have a 2014 Tour de France too and have just installed a detachable Westfalia towbar. Unfortunately, mine did not have the wiring so had to get a dedicated ECS wiring kit back to the fuse box as well. The towbar I purchased was a Westfalia Vertical Detachable Towbar as I carry Ebikes on a carrier. The part number for mine is 317102600001 and it was sourced from The Towbar Store on Bay, which are an authorised Westfalia retailer. They also stock Witter and Towtrust towbars. If you are going for a detachable swan neck version, double check that it is suitable for the Superb 4X4 Estate.

Sounds like a worn wheel bearing hub to me. The hub and wheel bearings are all in one, so easy to replace. Get one of those infra red thermometers and when you've come back from a good run in the car, check the temperatures of both hubs (heat should transfer to brake disc, so easy to check with wheels on). If one side is hotter than the other, you know it is a worn wheel bearing hub.

You can get an aerial / Fakra adapter to connect from your Android HU's ISO or DIN aerial connector to the Fakra connector at the end of the coaxial DAB lead from the shark fin aerial. Ensure you get the 'amplified' version with the blue wire and connect that to the blue wire coming out of your Android HU. Many forget that amplification is needed, which is why the signal can be poor. You will need to connect the blue wire from the Fakra adapter to the blue wire coming out of the Android HU as this will amplify the signal from the shark fin's coaxial DAB lead. Just been through this exercise myself on my Superb Mk2, with an aftermarket Pioneer DAB unit. Also managed to find the infotainment adapter which allows vehicle info such as optical parking diagram and blower speed to appear on the the new HU screen. Can recommend Mem at Dynamic Sounds, who was very helpful and advised on the correct adapters for my car: https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk