JB-)

Welcome, Scott. Yes, the engine type in your car is one that has been affected by timing chain tensioner failures. Take a look here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-and-20tsi-engine-failures/ There is information, help and advice on warranties etc, in that thread. Don't let the failure stories frighten you, failures are rare in relation to the number of engines out there. My car has the same engine as yours with the original tensioner design, and it's not something that I'm overly concerned about. However it's worth having a read so that you've got the full picture. Regarding the rear tyre wear, if you find that your car suffers from it, then yes you can have a 4 wheel alignment done. I had mine done soon after I bought it. Most of all, enjoy the Octavia, they are great cars.

No, it's still registered as a motorcycle so a helmet is still a requirement for the rider. Sidecar passengers don't need one though, although I think there might be rules on that too, to do with the size of the sidecar or something.

Direct Line wanted an extra £200 off me for tinted windows on my last Octy, which already had them done when I bought it. The tint was soon removed since I personally don't like it anyway. I think cars look odd with some of the windows darker than others.

Welcome, Remko. No need to worry, you already type in English better than some English people

Shameless link to my ad for a brand new Dainese back protector if anyone here is after one. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318097-dainese-back-protector-brand-new-%C2%A340/

That's quite possible, although he did say the tensioner failed it could mean the one for a belt. It was a third-hand story after all. The point is still relevant though, that any engine can have a failure of some kind or another. Watchdog did a feature about timing failures on BMW diesels. As you said yourself, these failures have to be put in to perspective. I know it's no consolation if you are the one who's engine is goosed, but threads like this one worry people unnecessarily I think.

You could budget to either have the latest version chain and tensioner fitted, or to buy a warranty. Post May 2010 engines won't have the original version at least. I just learned today that my brother's new neighbour had a Audi A3 diesel that had the tensioner fail, so diesels aren't 100% safe either.

It was warm but not red hot. VCDS was showing water temp of around 70 degrees.

Out of curiosity I checked my car with VCDS and block 93-3 shows -1.44 All of this might give an idea of how stretched the timing chain is, but I'm not convinced it gives any clue as to whether or not the tensioner is about to fail.

Well, again I would have come, but I can't make it this time either if it's on the 26th :(

Welcome I don't think changing the PCV valve would cause the light to come on, but it might be worth asking in the Fabia section here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-i/ Are there any members near to you who have VCDS, who might be able to scan the car for you? Check here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/

Welcome The same question was asked a few days ago http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/320537-hi-buying-advice-octavia-vrs/ The comment about timing chains don't apply to the year you're looking at, but check that the timing belt has been done. Also check the air con works as the compressor is prone to fail.

Just had another thought, on later bikes you need spacers to raise the rear ride height. The J1 had a nut above and below the mount so you could wind it up, but later bikes did away with the nut below for some reason. A few big washers or similar would do the job though, you don't need to buy spacers. I loved my J1. It was the first brand new bike I bought, and the first one I crashed Only problem I ever had was carb icing on very cold days, but I think that problem was addressed later too. Oh and the paint on the red wheels was way too thin and wore off, but luckily my dad paints fire engines for a living

I've still got the settings from when I had a J1, although the later bikes had different forks. The ride height lift made the most difference, making the bike turn much faster. I raised mine 6mm at the time not 8. Stock Settings Rear Preload spring length set at 180mm Rebound ten clicks out from full in Compression ten clicks out from full in Ride Height zero Front Preload Kawasaki quote 14mm showing Rebound 7 clicks out from full in Compression 9 clicks out from full in Performance Bikes Settings Rear Preload one full turn back if weighing less than 14 stone Rebound 7 clicks out from full in Compression 8 clicks out from full in Ride Height +8mm Front Preload 4 lines showing Rebound 4 clicks out from full in Compression 6 clicks out from full in

Yeah that's a big key to not only riding quicker but smoother too, good observation and looking ahead, not just right in front of your front wheel. Staring just in front of you can also lead to target fixation, where you make a hash of a corner or see an obstacle and end up staring right where you don't want to go, which results in you heading straight to it. I've done exactly that a time or two in my earlier biking days.

That's one of my golden rules for new riders, don't try and keep up with anyone else if you're not comfortable at their pace. That's when big accidents happen. Well actually it applies to any rider.

Still got it and just about to go to Spain on it. After that I'll have had it a year in August, so then I'll look at swapping. I do like it a lot, it's just under powered compared to what I'm used to. Insurance companies either wanted 4 figures or wouldn't touch me at all with anything big, just because I didn't have any no claims and hadn't had a bike for a few years. The fact that one of last bikes was a ZZR1400 didn't make any difference. What a joke. Anyway after only only ever having had sports or sports tourers, that prompted me to try something different. I actually quite like being more sat up so I might just go for the same sort of thing but bigger next time. Still very tempted by another ZZR1400 though. Best bike I've had by far.

That's fair enough. In reality it will feel plenty fast enough, until you try to play with bigger bikes. Then you realise how little power you've got. I bought a FZ6 as a no claims builder after a break from riding for a few years. It's so frustrating when lads on bigger stuff pull 6 bike lengths on you out of every corner!

I'd rather get a FZ6 and have the extra 20 horses. They're gutless enough as it is!

Right click on the page and choose 'Translate to English' (Chrome), or Translate with Bing (IE).

Yes this. Even though the guide is against the sleeve, there's still nothing to physically stop the tensioner piston retracting, even though admittedly it might not. Also remember that by this point, we're saying that the tensioner has failed, therefore the retaining clip that is supposed to stop it retracting has come off and is floating around inside the timing cover. For the sleeve to have any chance of working it would need to be made of something fairly strong that won't deform under pressure. It's a nice idea but I'm not convinced it would work, even if it were possible to actually fit one through that hole, which I don't think it is. I'd be happy to be proven wrong though.

The compressor is the pump, and they do tend to get replaced with a re-con unit rather than repaired. It's not really a DIY job. It's a bit specialist to change and you need special equipment. The actual unbolting of the old one and fitting the new is easy enough. It's the re-charging the system with the correct refrigerant and oil that you need to get right.

If I remember right it's the flow valve that fails. Refrigerant is pumped around the system whether the air con is on or off, but when it's off the flow is restricted. This removes the need for a clutch on the compressor, and keeps seals lubricated so there's no need to use the air con every so often to do so. There are several types of compressor fitted to these cars though, and the supplier I bought mine from said the one that came off was carp and is why they commonly fail. They supplied a different type, but unfortunately I can't remember the make of either! I'd recognise what they look like though. Having said all that, if the flow can be replaced for a lot less cash then why not. They seem to last a good few years at least.

Absolutely. I'm not saying people shouldn't have all the facts, I just think that the thread about failures alone throws things a little out of perspective.

The thread that littleade is referring to is this one http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-and-20tsi-engine-failures/ In the interest of balance also take a look at this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/319563-18tsi-and-20tsi-engine-non-failures/#entry3826108 There a millions of these engines out there in a variety of VAG cars still going strong, and VAG are by no means the only engine manufacturer to suffer major failures. If it worries you and you'd rather go for something that has no chance of breaking down, get yourself a good pair of walking boots. Even then don't Google them, you'll probably find stories about laces breaking.