Graham Butcher

I'm currently installing the virtual machine on a laptop and will try and run it there first, if not then erWin Skoda could be an option. Another option is, as I don't have anywhere else other than the street to do this in, is to perhaps return the 2nd hand one for a refund and just book the car into my dealer for its service which is due in 20 days have it serviced and let them fit a replacement belt and then MOT it as well. I'd rather not have the expense as I'm retired, and the pension is not at all generous, but I rely on the car to get the wife to and from her place of work as well as my son and to do the family shopping etc. It is the only car in the family, and I'm the only driver. Its been way too hot do anything like this until now, and today I got soaked with more rain forecast, which is reducing the time I have available.

Thanks, that is not going to work because of where the webbing is cut, it would be highly visible. I'm really struggling with the instructions because they keep referring me to various chapters that I don't have access to remove various bits of trim. I do however have a full manual on my PC that is where I think wokwon extracted the instructions that he kindly posted. However I cannot access it because Windows 10 gives me an error message saying that because it is based on a VMware system of virtual machine, it cannot run while Microsoft Hyper_V is installed. It is disabled in the settings but still refuses to load WTF.

Well, I've discovered that the belt does infact lock up if pulled sharply, so that seems to be OK in that dept. The reason why I could not get the belt to pull out, is because of the angle I was holding it at, if I place in the horizontal position, as it would be installed in the car, the belt is free to pull out all the way to the very end and rewinds nicely. With it in that position, any attempt to snatch the belt results in an immediate locking of the belt, as it would do in an accident scenario. One thing that does slightly concern me however is that when it comes to disconnecting the airbag, the instructions refer to a specific section in the workshop manual for the correct disconnection and reconnection sequence to prevent the airbag from going off by accident. I assume that there might well be a similar sequence (whatever that is) for the pretensioner (if fitted to my car) but what that is I have no idea. I do have the workshop manual installed on my computer but with the latest version of Windows 10, it does load but flashes up a message about it will not work with the currently installed OS, it used to work just fine before with earlier versions of Win10. I have searched high and low for replacement belt, but being cream, they are just not that plentiful, new or 2nd hand. I grabbed the only one that was available in colour as the MOT is due in 3 weeks time, and it was 2nd hand from a breakers yard, new it is impossible to get outside the dealers and only want to supply and fit. I'm only having to replace the belt because my son sat in the back with his special box opening knife that he uses at work, clipped to this belt and this clipped itself onto the belt and managed to cut half the belt and as such will fail the MOT test.

Ok, I'm puzzled, the replacement (2nd hand) has arrived, very grubby and needs cleaning but currently cannot be pulled out to allow the belt to be cleaned. On the side of the mechanism, there is a 2 pin electrical connector with a warning label saying that the belt should not be fitted into another vehicle, malfunction could occur and could be dangerous. In the instructions in the posts above, there is zero mention of any electrical connection to disconnected or made apart from the connections to the airbag which behind the trim panel for the wheel arch cover on the C pillar and the connection to the heated rear seats. So is it the correct seat belt for 2013 L&K or is it from a more modern car with pretensioners and thus not suitable?

Wow, many thanks for the detailed info, belt is on its way to me, now I need to grab myself a torque wrench and hopefully a decent day to fit it without getting roasted alive or soaking wet. I'll post back here when its all done.

I'm in a 5 door sedan, or as we call it, a hatch back, does that help?

My son who works in retail, sat in the back the other day whilst still having his box opening tool attached to his belt. This tool managed to partly slice through the seat belt and so this now urgently requires replacing as it will not be strong enough to work correctly if called upon. The MOT is due in 3 weeks time, has anyone ever replaced a rear belt on these superbs and if so, how does one gain access to the mounting points?

Gee, thanks for this, shows just how we motorists can be suckered in for sure. What actually Gauls me is that I actually purchased a replacement sensor from GSF Auto parts in preparation to replace it, after I had already pulled the old sensor out, checked it using my multimeter and discovered that it appeared to be OK. This was after watching this video I checked the sensor as shown and it was OK. So I returned the new sensor for a refund, but only after refitting the old sensor and doing a live data test and it was giving me the same speeds as the other 3 wheels, thus I assumed that I worse issues and booked it in for a full diagnostic check using more sophisticated equipment, the rest is history.

Ok, update time. I initially booked the car for a thorough diagnostic check as the garage claimed that they have the self same system as used by the factory for the ECU's etc, while I only have the plug-in dongle from Carista. I had also taken screen prints of the various readouts from the Carista and printed them out to assist the garage, and left these with the car for them in case there was no error codes stored in the memory. When they had done the tests they called me to inform me that their tests had shown them the problem was the N/S/R sensor as this was the only code stored and did I want them to replace the sensor, I said yes and asked if that would also be the magnetic ring gear, but I didn't get a definitive answer on that, or at least I could understand. They had to order a sensor in for the following morning, so the car was left with them overnight. Today I was called and told that the car was ready for collection and the cost £239, £41.25 was diagnostic checking, £79.92 was the cost of the sensor and £78 was the labour and the rest was VAT @ 20%. I enquired if they did the magnetic ring on the hub, and they said no, 99% of the time it is the actual sensor that fails. I queried that as the live data testing via the Carista tool showed all speed sensors to be working OK and the only they differed was while cornering, which you'd expect anyway. I was told that they question the accuracy of the plug-in Carista units and again stated that their system was the same as the factory uses and so was better?? They also said the magnetic ring was built into the wheel bearing? Strange as it is, my understanding that is replaceable on its own and not part of the wheel bearing, am I wrong on that point? I was however given a 2-year warranty on the work and told to just see what happens. Had I been fully aware that they were not going to replace or at least inspect the magnetic ring, I would have replaced the sensor myself. Oh well, its done now, just have to wait if the same thing occurs again, the last time I had the dash alert for the sensor was on the 18th April.

Garage just rang, and their system does indeed point to the N/S/R sensor, so they are replacing both the magnetic ring and the sensor tomorrow (they have to order them in) so we shall know further tomorrow.

Thank you for the reply and suggestions, I don't know if the ring is corroded or not, but I suspect not, I have tested the sensor loop for all the wheels pretty extensively by using the live data reports on my OBD2 dongle, and it reports all wheel speeds the same unless I'm on bend or a corner. I've pulled the N/S/R sensor, and it looks to be perfectly fine as well, no sign of anything rubbing on the end where it is running close to the magnetic ring and all connections are clean and making good contact. Wheel bearing felt just fine and has zero rumbling or grumbling noises when spinning the wheel, and no, the brakes have never got hot, its a low mileage car and its been with me since I collected it new from the dealer's in 2013, so I know its history well. All the time I had the sand dust on the car, I was getting this problem, since washing the car, not a thing, so I'm taking it into the specialist today, so lets see what their test equipment can detect. I'll post on here what their finding is, but at the moment it is behaving itself.

Since I washed my car the problem with regard to the dashboard lighting like a Christmas tree and giving an indication that the N/S/R wheel speed sensor was faulty, I have not any reoccurrence of that problem. Prior to that, it was covered with the sand dust that we experienced in the South, could that have been causing the problems? It is booked into my local VWAuditech centre in the morning for a diagnostic check over, the warnings have long gone, hopefully however, they might be held in the ECU's memory so that they can retrieve them. I have not cleared them this time.

OK, the speaker arrived, there are a few differences between the standard Superb speaker and the one from the L&K model. The cone is slightly different in appearance, the roll suspension on the L&K is both larger and more rubbery and the magnet is around 25 mm larger in dia, otherwise is the same. Fitted it the same way as the old was, with pop rivets and the difference in the quality between having a woofer and not, in a single door is staggering. I don't think the bass is quite as deep with the standard speaker, but I'll gladly make do with it as L&K model cars are extremely rare indeed on the road, out of 301 registered in 2013, 274 of those are still on the road. The 27 not on the road may just be stored in garages somewhere, not written off, but if I can get a proper replacement at a sensible price, I'll take it, so if anyone comes across one, I'd be grateful if they could let me know. The saving grace with bass is that it is not as directional as mid-range to high frequencies are, hence why some sound and cinema systems only have 1 subwoofer between 5 sound channels.

Oh hell yeah, I'll be checking that, but I'm not expecting any issues on that front as the speaker is all plug and play so to speak, and the plug will only fit one way.

I actually cut away the cone to get to the voice coil, and it failed due to the magnet air gap dimensioning on one side due to the magnet rusting up inside and swelling up so that it actually wedged the cone and voice coil tight against one side of the air gap, trapping it solid. I'm guessing that particular speaker might have missed out on the protection stage of assembly, who knows? Hopefully the replacement speaker arrives soon, fingers crossed it does and I get a fine day to fit it.

Update on this, I've decided to try out a 3T0035411A speaker instead with the option of a 2nd one for the drivers' door in case there is any actual difference in the sound / volume in the front.

Yeah, I also found that seller, the only one that claimed to have that part number as well, then I saw the shipping cost, then I thought about the possible import duty, then I also noticed that the seller also claims to have the 3T0035411A bass speaker but using the same photo for both, and I wondered if they actually had both or just hoping that no one would notice the difference between them? So I have found 2 of the 3T0035411A on eBay for less money that that one, so I have decided to go with them and see what if any noticeable difference in sound there is. Maybe by swapping both of the J's for the A's in the front, any differance in sound may not be noticed in the front?

I have added a couple of photos of the woofer I need.

Update on the woofer, removed the door card, thanks to the assistance of wokwan, and the wiring to the door and speakers is absolutely fine. The signals from the amp are reaching the woofer, just that the woofer is not responding. Checked the cone for movement, and it is locked solid. Measured the voice coil, and it is spot on at 2 ohms, so I can rule out amplifier allowing DC voltage to bleed into the speaker as it would have burnt out the voice coil, and it would smell burnt, there is no smell. So now I need a replacement speaker, which only seems to be available in Germany. Does anyone know where else I might locate a replacement, the standard Superb woofer is not suitable, they are 4ohms and designed for the standard stereo, mine has the Canton uprated stereo.

Wondering if any here has upgraded their stereo has one of the woofer speakers for the front doors (part number is 3T0035411J) this is made by Sonavox of China and is a 2ohm speaker, the normal Superb speaker is a 4ohm and the part number is the same but the J becomes A, that they would be prepared to sell? Mine has become completely stuck, its not shorted though, so its not been overloaded at all. I think it has not been working for about 5 years since the door it is had some bodywork repairs done and it's only just been noticed.

I stumbled across this interesting video which shows that sometimes you can catch a cold when you opt for what is perceived to be a premium replacement for a faulty sensor, I wonder how many times people fallen into this kind of trap?

Thank you.

Has anyone had problems with the speakers, in the N/S/F door of their Superb, or has anyone ever removed the door card on that door for any reason? My woofer on that door has stopped working, and I'd like to remove the door card and see what is wrong with it, but I'm not sure just to do this without causing any damage to the card. This is by far the best car I've ever had, and I want to leave the interior undamaged when I do it. I've tried searching previous posts but have not been able to find anything to do with the door card removal, is there a post that might help me?

No, that is a 3 wire sensor that uses 1 wire of the supply as the common for the Hall voltage second wire. This link actually shows the connection of a 2 wire sensor and the third part of the sensor circuitry is housed inside the ABS control module, which means if that part fails it will greatly increase the cost or repair as that unit will need replacing and hence why I have decided against a DIY repair because my live data testing shows the wheel sensor as working correctly, indicating that the fault more than likely exists with the control module itself 😟 https://www.tiepie-automotive.com/en/articles/abs-sensor-hall

Yes, the inductive one, page 16 is the one where a multimeter may be used to see if the coil is intact or has a broken connection and page 17 is a version of the active sensor (hall effect) but is in fact the older style with 3 wires. It also says that these active sensors are better because they can detect much slower wheel speeds and are therefore safer as they will react far quicker to speed variations, which could be the lifesaver in some circumstances.