Svend

Mine was suppose to have beige leather but there was a supply issue so many if not all SE L Execs at the time got black leather. I wouldn't want alcantara though. Just got back home from an evening out and got a taxi to the restaurant, an Octavia with black leather/alcantara interior. Looked nice but full leather is nicer, for me. As with anything, it's personal preference and if we were all the same, life would be boring.

BMW did that on one of it's recent electric or hybrid cars. As it was to save energy, the only issue was a couple of the images were released with the wheels on the wrong sides, in essence creating more drag and increasing energy usage. Lol. For me I have an irrational thing about symmetry, it's super annoying.

Mate. Don't worry about it. I've got this almost, I don't want to say OCD as it gets used too often out of context, irrational thing that things need to have reflectional and rotational symmetry if there's more than two of it. Four spoke wheels drive me mental. Three spoke okay, four no, five upwards like the 19 spoke Ford wheels I first became aware of many years ago, yes.

While much or that is true if you don't adequately clean the surface of the clay mitt/towel/block, etc...it has been one of the key reasons for using the clay mitt/towel/block since Rav at CarPro in Cyprus released the Polyshave Block some six years ago (they did not create the media but they did bring it to many more people's attention here in the U.K. And further affield on Detailing World). As the mitt/towel/block doesn't lift contaminants away from the surface like a clay bar does. The clay bar draws it away into the clay while the mitt/towel/block uses a textured rubber layer to draw the contaminants depositing into the recesses to be dislodged into the rinse bucket with gritguard. But it's certainly not the case of buying a £6 to £20+ clay mitt/towel/block that if it's dropped it is to be thrown away. I'm sorry. Just my two pence worth. It is true that unlike clay bar it is usually best the break the mitt/towel/block in on the car's glass to prevent any micromarring of the paintwork in the early days of use.

Yes, while from the left hand side the wheel 'blades' would going in the forward direction of travel, from the right hand side, they would appear to be going backwards as the car went forwards if you know what I mean.

I'm sorry. That is incorrect. If you drop a clay bar it goes in the bin. A clay mitt, just a good rinse and agitation running your hand back and forth over the area gently to dislodge any possible debris, rinse with clean water under a hose and you can reuse.

I picked these wheels because the other ones visually irk me. On one side the wheels would appear to go the direction of the 'blade' spoke, while the other side, the 'blade' spoke would appear to go backwards. I couldn't live with a car like that. Lol. I actually thing there are three or four on here with the same colour and wheel combo. It's the best combo in my books. Autozine did a great photoshoot with the same colour wheel combo. https://www.autozine.co.uk/skoda/superb/review Shame I couldn't get beige leather interior. :(

No worries. Auto Smart came up with Red7 which was close, but not as good cleaning action or brakedust remover. So while it was cheaper, you needed to use more of it. I've tried a few similar products to Auto Wheels but I've yet to find one to beat it. Though not stated as suitable I've used it on car paint in place of Korrosol (Bilt Hambers version of CarPro Iron-X) and it's not damaged or affected the paintwork either.

I've used it for years with no issue. Because of the higher price compared to Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel Cleaner I use it when I need fallout remover but if I'm honest also when I'm in a hurry and the wheels are mostly soiled with brakedust and traffic film rather than dirt. I spray all over, on the spokes, wheel centres, edges where it meets the tyres, etc... with no issues at all. You should make sure you fully rinse it as some of the now purple water can accumulate behind the wheel centre and some spokes and drip out when your not aware (think like car mirror dribbles when you know you've got it all out, still a dribble or two will appear). So thoroughly rinse the wheel moving the spray around. As you should be doing the wheels first it's not a real issue and you be around that area from time to time washing and rinsing the car body. But as I say, I've not had any issues even with alloy wheels with damaged clearcote, painted, etc... and I've used it for years Just spray, let dwell, agitate if necessary and then thoroughly rinse.

As above. Whenever I refer to 'rinse', that's jet wash off unless your 'sheeting' which is using the hose pipe with an open end to let the water run along the paintwork to collect water droplets.

I use Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel Cleaner. It can be diluted down from neat for heavy soiling to 5:1 for light soiling. If I want to wheel clean and remove brake dust. I use Bilt Hamber Autowheels which is a wheel cleaner and fallout remover in one (though it itself is a wheel cleaner, it's best to get off as much dirt beforehand so the fallout remover can do it's job). Spray on, allow to dwell, then agitate with whatever wheel brushes you have and rinse. It's the same for both.

IT'S MINE I TELL YOU, ALL MINE. Lol. It's mine, it says so on the plate, granted it's a detailing plate.

I've used it for several years. If you bare in mind most micromarring and swirls are inflicted during the wash process, the least physical interaction as possible is the most beneficial. The snow foam helps soften the dirt and will aid removing much of the debris. There will always be some dirt left over which needs that physical touch to remove but the snow foam has softened it sufficiently that you won't need any aggressive rubbing to remove. Follow the snow foam up with a good rinse and then a two bucket wash, the two buckets will aid reducing re-introducing dirt from the vehicle, back to the vehicle after cleaning the mitt in the rinse bucket.

Gave Piglet a clean and also gave my new detailing plates, really chuffed with them. Dressing tyres and wheel arches makes a big difference. Exterior and door shut cleaning gear.

I've found two estates. One is a 2015 manual 1.4ACT for £16,495. With 15,500 miles on. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201707117270377?fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=ca25ll&radius=1500&year-to=2017&model=SUPERB&colour=Blue&year-from=2015&make=SKODA&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=year-desc&page=1 the other is a 2016 auto 1.4ACT for £24,495. With 5,200 miles on. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201707057086462?fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=ca25ll&radius=1500&year-to=2017&model=SUPERB&colour=Blue&year-from=2015&make=SKODA&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=year-desc&page=1 The last is a hatchback 2017 auto 1.4ACT for £22,995. With 5,922 miles on. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201708128286429?fuel-type=Petrol&postcode=ca25ll&radius=1500&year-to=2017&model=SUPERB&colour=Blue&year-from=2015&make=SKODA&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&advertising-location=at_cars&sort=year-desc&page=1 ((the last one doesn't look metallic in that light but is listed as Petrol Blue Metallic, rather than Pacific Blue which is non metallic))

If you choose to get one yourself. Can I highly recommend Petrol Blue Metallic? which changes in the light.

After having the Mk2 estate, we simply went straight into the dealer for a Mk3 hatch, SE L Exec, 1.4TSi ACT. No test drive, no looking at other cars. Best thing we ever did. What colour did you get?

£85 with VAT for the vent.

I brought mine trying to put my step-brother's recliner on the back seat. I want to fix it myself but scared of making it worse, I also want to replace it, but the cost of a new one is ridiculous. I dare not ask Skoda how much they'd charge with labour.

The Superb Mk3 is a fantastic car and the 1.4TSi ACT isn't lacking in power. The kids will love the more relaxed seating position in the Superb over the Alhambra and the great legroom allowing them to spread out. The boot space is vast enough for all your needs.

That one is just a general Karcher foaming gun. A proper unit as used for car cleaning can be found from £20+ on eBay, etc...

If you don't have a pressure washer at home, take a bucket or two, a wash mitt, wheel brush, a five litre water container or slightly larger, a few microfibres and a quick detailer. After pressure rinsing your car of excess dirt, fill a bucket with water, now using the foam from the machine, hold the lance away from the body of the vehicle and let the soap suds cover the car, now using your wash mitt place in the water bucket and wipe over an area of roof, if you've taken a second bucket and filled with water great, agitate the mitt in the second bucket, loosely wring it out and then dip the mitt into the first bucket again and wipe another section of roof (either quarter or half a roof at a time is fine), repeat this process for the windows, then the bonnet, above the rubbing strip on the side of the car and boot lid, then you do the front bumper, lower side and rear, finally with the brush, agitate the dirt on the wheels rinsing the brush as often as necessary. Now pressure rinse the car from the top down going around the car, if you have a drying towel either wipe over the care in the same precess as you washed the car or gently drape the towel over the car and pat the towel down. This should leave your car with fine water spots. Using the quick detailer and a folded over microfibre, spray two or three squirts onto the cloth and wipe one panel at a time, turn cloth over and buff, repeat as you go round. The idea of going round from top to bottom is the cleanest area is usually up top therefore avoiding taking any grit from lower down and introducing it higher up. If you want to get a pressure washer, check out Karcher Outlet, in the pressure washer section the first column is K2, they are refurbed pressure washers but don't let that sway you, you are mint condition and you'd swear they were brand new, the difference is, they are £30-36 plus £6 p&p compared to £100-120 in stores new. I've had mine three years plus and still going strong and it sees some action.

Simple. Wash the car, while drying, do the windows first, then press and hold the unlock button to open all the windows, then press the power button for the radio and stick a good CD in or something while I go about with the drying aid and get on with the rest of the car and stuff that needs doing.

Looking good. Metallic blue is always a god colour to work with. Such a giving colour.