Svend

Okay. First you need a wash mitt. A microfibre noodle wash mitt will set you back £3 at most supermarket. Buckets, two of, one for shampoo water and one for plain water to rinse the mitt after you've gone over an area with the mitt, wring out and the dunk into the shampoo busker and wipe another area, repeat. Shampoo, depending what you want from it, if you want to wash and then dry then a simple wash'n'wax product is okay. If you want to wax or use a sealant, your better with a cleaning shampoo (without wax) that contain no gloss enhancers or leave any residue behind. Drying, you can pick up a drying towel again from any supermarket for about £3 (drying towels work best when they are very lightly damp such as wet then wrung out). Things to consider, wheel cleaner, glass cleaner (you can use a one from the house if you wish), tyre and Trim dressing, interior cleaner (better with a multi surface cleaner that will do all surfaces such as Gtechniq I2 or Valet Pro All Surface Cleaner (check out Valet Pro at elitecarcare.co.uk, cleanyourcar.co.uk, etc... great products that can be diluted for purpose and inexpensive, the all purpose cleaner is £10 for a litre and dilutes 1:20), etc...

The thing is, that's like how long is a piece of string. What are you wanting from a kit? What have you got already? What do you need? What is the interior, fabric, leather or alcantara? What's the car, colour, interior. What level are you wanting? Are you wanting to wash and dry or something more in depth?

No worries. Dark colours and blacks are so more particular than others. Silver is the only colour for an easy life, others have there own particular needs.

Think of a hologram as wax hazing, but in the clear one. In most light it's not noticeable but then at some point it'll become apparent and stand out a mile, yet move and it disappears. Which is why when inspecting the paint after polishing you move your head around a lot up and down, side to side, to try and catch as many angles of the light hitting the car as you can.

What you've got to remember is that the wash process is where most of the paint work damage is done from spiders legs, micro marring, holograms, etc... The trick is to physically touch the paintwork the least. Use snow foams or citrus pre-washes to help soften and emulsify the dirt, lifting it away from the surface meaning that when you follow it up with a two bucket wash (after pressure rinsing the snow foam or citrus pre-wash off) the least amount of effort is needed to shift the remaining dirt. Claying of any kind will marr the paint work, be it a clay block, towel, mitt, pad, etc... it the general nature of the beast in that your rubbing something even with a lot of lubricant, need the clay to bite to remove the contamination. Claying is always best followed with a polish, for other occasions tar removers and fallout removers are the best course of action as often they require little to no physical contact from any implements. Holograms are more noticeable of dark coloured as well as black cars, so any polishing needs to be followed up with a fine finishing polish to remove any holograms. With car washing it's like treating a patient, start with the least invasive and gentlest method, you can always get more invasive should you need to. With microfibres and towels, only wash them in a non-bio wash at 40 Degrees C or a microfibre towel wash (which can be had for about £16 for 500ml, which may sound a lot but only needs about 25ml per wash), anything higher or that contains any enzymes of conditioners will damages the pile of the cloth and will become flat and some cases mildly abrasive.

Okay random ones. Honda Civic door shut. Honda Civic wheels More Honda Civic Skoda Superb

I don't have Kessy but if I want to open the tailgate I've got to unlock the car or press and hold the boot release on the keyfob (which doesn't unlock the rest of the car). Check on your setting for Kessy entry that all are ticked, I think but can;t recall for definite that you can eight unlock the driver's door, all the doors or all points of entry. It's like when you only use the driver's door often, when you press the unlock but on the keyfob of regular keys, it'll only open the driver's door and so have to press it again to unlock the other doors. It'll be something to do with security like when you drive off, it'll lock the doors, but stop and it'll let you open the doors, but get out and open the tailgate and it'll be locked. So you need to press the boot release button on the centre console or the unlock button also on the centre console.

I tried Poorboys Blackhole a while back. The car was was a 56 plate black Audi A3 that was poorly looked after and covered in micromarring from drive through car washes. A colleague who's cars I've looked after for over six years bought a 16 plate black Honda Civic Ninth Gen, bought in September last year. She's only ever been safe washed. Pressure rinsed, snow foamed, rinsed, foamed with car shampoo and then two bucket washed with shampoo, rinsed, foamed with CarPro Hydrofoam, rinsed, dried with Gyeon Cure.

Was Pacific blue like the petrol blue? I thought it was the same then remembered Europe called the petrol blue, lava blue. Was the Pacific blue lighter or darker? This energy blue sounds like it's quite a bright blue.

Looks great.

I've been looking for a set of these for ages. Can't find them for love nor money.

Thanks, I try my best. I love a clean car and a happy car owner.

I hope your patient. The first clean usually takes three to four hours. The next cleans only take half an hour though once a month or so.

No. I do friends, neighbours and colleagues cars for free to relax. It's very therapeutic.

For cleaning leather seats I use Gtechniq I2ab, which is an anti-bacterial cleaner for all surfaces from plastic to leather, metal to fabric. First vacuum the interior gently easing out the bolsters to one side with your fingers so to vacuum out the stitching. If need be use a small soft haired brush and gently work it up and down the stitching and vacuum up. Now attacking a small area at a time, say one seat base or few leather panels either spray directly onto the leather or onto a microfibre cloth or microfibre pad and work in with light pressure, for stubborn marks maybe use slightly more pressure. Once wiped down and cleaned to a level your happy with. I treat the leather with Gtechniq L1 (Leather Guard), this is:- I like to apply with a soft microfibre pad and work in, then wipe off excess with a clean dry microfibre.

Ye', I've tried rewording it in the past, but still always sounds like something else.

Piglet got a wash. Neighbours daughter's car given a good going over, Shampood front seat bases, passenger footwell mat and passenger footwell of tomato ketchup and milkshake. Windscreen wash topped up (another two litres).

First aid kit 3T0093108 about £15 Triangle GGA700001A about £17

Psst, any time is time you won't get back. Time is linear. Sorry, I've got to stop saying that to people. Ye', Tardis is quite good, I use AF ObliTARate myself, more expensive but I use less of it. It's always best to keep a list in your browser favourites to get car supplies from such as cleanyourcar, elitecarcare, polishedbliss, ultimatefinish, slims, sam's, detailedclean, etc... and look for discount codes to save some money.

I stopped using the creams about ten years ago. These products leave the Halford sourced stuff in the dark ages just as Nanolex Washcoat, Gyeon Bathe+ and CarPro Hydrofoil have left the old days of wash'n'wax far far behind. As with any chemical from car shampoo, fallout remover, tar remover, etc... don't let the product dry on the surface, if it starts do, either apply more or remove it and repeat. So take into account how much needs doing, weather and temperature conditions, how easily and quickly you can work the product before it starts to become an issue.

Check out Sam's Detailing website and get a proper PA snow foam lance for £20. The Karcher unit you get with the pressure washer is okay for spreading soap but won't get anything remotely thick and foamy.

I use Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel Cleaner most of the time but Bilt Bamber do, do a wheel cleaner/fallout remover called Autowheels. Which I use from time to time if I'm limited on well, time. The why people use just a fallout remover on wheels alone, I don't know. Maybe it's impatience and cutting corners.

I'm on my mobile at present so can't post pictures but the petrol blue metallic is amazing for of the colours available for non Sportline Superb, for Sportline Superb, the Dragon Green Metallic is amazing.

The likes of AutoFinesse ObliTARate, CarPro Tar-X, AutoSmart Harris, etc... are so much better than the creams. The CarPro Tar-X has a dye in to aid seeing it on black cars.

Spray on, let's dwell but not dry then gently wipe off, repeat if necessary, large spots need to be pulled off with your finger nail or spray some on a cloth wrapped around your finger and gently rub.