Here are some shots from today (Saturday).

It was a great air show..... but I wish the weather wasn't so grey:( I only had a press pass for the Saturday..... so for those of you going Sunday, I expect to see some great images with nice blue skies and fluffy clouds.

Hope you like them.

Top quality work again there mr Scuff, I love the one of the P51 in the dive and the F86 turning :thumbup:

Top quality work again there mr Scuff, I love the one of the P51 in the dive and the F86 turning :thumbup:

Thanks Fluff - I was hoping that they would fly together in a formation :(

Nice shots:thumbup: Were you driving a Race Blue Octy Estate?

I was there yesterday. That sky was getting darker by the minute, I really thought we were going to get peed on. Played havoc with my N95 photos:rofl:

Nice shots:thumbup: Were you driving a Race Blue Octy Estate?

I was there yesterday. That sky was getting darker by the minute, I really thought we were going to get peed on. Played havoc with my N95 photos:rofl:

Yep.... My Race Blue Octi camera bag. It was parked in the exhibitors car park.

It was a bit dull, wasn't it. I stuck the camera on manual, taking a light reading of the grass (about 18% grey) which stopped me getting silhouettes

I cleared off after the Typhoon............ didn't see the red arrows there.

I just edited that post after seeing the Typhoon in your pics:O

I can't believe Ive spotted someone at last:D I saw your Octy driving in:thumbup:

Very nice pic's, can't wait til Waddington, hope the Vulcan will fly:thumbup:

They're still waiting for the CAA:confused:

Cool great pics

I'm going to the air show at Fairford next month and can't wait!

I hope I can get some good photos.

Awesome photos

I haven't been to an airshow for years; it's about time i did.

Thanks for sharing

Kay.

can't wait til Waddington, hope the Vulcan will fly:thumbup:

I'm having to miss out on Waddington for a music festival :(

So dissapointed that i might miss Vulcan's first major display for however many years.

I've watched some videos and i really want to hear it scream and bank over my head!

Anyway, Scuff - What was your choice of lens for these photos - they're amazingly crisp and well focused!

Deadly pics, btw what kinda of settings had you the camera on to get those pics?

Thanks again for your kind comments......

The lens was a Canon 300mm 2.8Lis. Mounted on a Canon 1dmkIII.

I stuck the camera on manual exposure and metered the grass to stop the inevitable silhouette yo get when shooting against the sky.

I left the camera to sort out the focusing, set on continuous AF and shooting at ten frames per second.

I hope that helps

metered the grass

Care to expand for a complete novice

Hows it done, I have a 40D

Care to expand for a complete novice

Hows it done, I have a 40D

This is an old trick if you have no incident light meter.

When you point your camera at a subject, it basically tries to average out the tones to an 18% grey. With a bright sky, the meter says 'kinell - thats bright - I'll have to tone that down. Consequently the aircraft against the bright sky goes all dark :thumbdwn:

Now if you take your camera off auto, you chose what exposure. I point it at the grass (which is pretty close to 18% grey) and set the exposure to that. Hence the aircraft is exposed about right. The sky can blow out a little, but that is easier to correct.

Obviously a little practice and experience will help you to nail the exposure.

I hope that makes sense.

This is an old trick if you have no incident light meter.

When you point your camera at a subject, it basically tries to average out the tones to an 18% grey. With a bright sky, the meter says 'kinell - thats bright - I'll have to tone that down. Consequently the aircraft against the bright sky goes all dark :thumbdwn:

Now if you take your camera off auto, you chose what exposure. I point it at the grass (which is pretty close to 18% grey) and set the exposure to that. Hence the aircraft is exposed about right. The sky can blow out a little, but that is easier to correct.

Obviously a little practice and experience will help you to nail the exposure.

I hope that makes sense.

Great pics - as per usual

Camera nowhere in same league but do similar to get rid of 'averaging out'.

Point camera at darker area, press and hold Exposure Lock and then then refocus on intended target and take shots. Didn't know about the 'grass' (18%) so will use that in future

And 10fps - 'kinnell' indeed

Thought I was well off with 5fps for mine :(

This is an old trick if you have no incident light meter.

When you point your camera at a subject, it basically tries to average out the tones to an 18% grey. With a bright sky, the meter says 'kinell - thats bright - I'll have to tone that down. Consequently the aircraft against the bright sky goes all dark :thumbdwn:

Now if you take your camera off auto, you chose what exposure. I point it at the grass (which is pretty close to 18% grey) and set the exposure to that. Hence the aircraft is exposed about right. The sky can blow out a little, but that is easier to correct.

Obviously a little practice and experience will help you to nail the exposure.

I hope that makes sense.

How do I lock the exposure value, surely if I point to take the reading then point at something else to focus then I loose the origial value. Or is it a case once you get the value you manually input it?

How do I lock the exposure value, surely if I point to take the reading then point at something else to focus then I loose the origial value. Or is it a case once you get the value you manually input it?

Stick the camera on Manual. The aperture and shutter speed will stay at what you dial in. And what you dial in is the reading taken from the grass in this case. The scale and pointer on the right hand side when you look through the viewfinder will show you whether you are under or overexposed for that given subject.

You will see that when you point the camera at the sky, the scale will tell you that you are over exposing.

Great Pics again

Stick the camera on Manual. The aperture and shutter speed will stay at what you dial in. And what you dial in is the reading taken from the grass in this case. The scale and pointer on the right hand side when you look through the viewfinder will show you whether you are under or overexposed for that given subject.

You will see that when you point the camera at the sky, the scale will tell you that you are over exposing.

I had a look at that, even though the exposure level is set to middle on the LC display is full the right in view finder :confused:

I've a lot learn :(

How do I lock the exposure value, surely if I point to take the reading then point at something else to focus then I loose the origial value. Or is it a case once you get the value you manually input it?

Once the camera is set on manual exposure mode, whatever aperture and shutter speed you set stays, no matter where you point the camera.

The point is, if the light is constant, and you set the light reading correctly in manual mode, the camera will not be fooled into under or over exposing, no matter what the reflectivity of the subject or it's background is.

Auto metering such as program/Av/Tv modes, do a fairly good job. But as you progress, you will have a pretty good idea about what will happen to your exposure given most subjects. You can compensate with exposure compensation or indeed set the camera to manual as explained.

Most times the camera will give you a 'good enough' image - but that is not good enough for me or my clients. It has to be right.

Bear in mind this saying - 'there is the correct exposure and then there is the right exposure'. Only the photographer can get the 'right exposure' by taking control of the machine (camera), not the other way around.

PPHHeeewwwww:eek:

Once the camera is set on manual exposure mode, whatever aperture and shutter speed you set stays, no matter where you point the camera.

The point is, if the light is constant, and you set the light reading correctly in manual mode, the camera will not be fooled into under or over exposing, no matter what the reflectivity of the subject or it's background is.

Auto metering such as program/Av/Tv modes, do a fairly good job. But as you progress, you will have a pretty good idea about what will happen to your exposure given most subjects. You can compensate with exposure compensation or indeed set the camera to manual as explained.

Most times the camera will give you a 'good enough' image - but that is not good enough for me or my clients. It has to be right.

Bear in mind this saying - 'there is the correct exposure and then there is the right exposure'. Only the photographer can get the 'right exposure' by taking control of the machine (camera), not the other way around.

PPHHeeewwwww:eek:

Anyone going to Dunsfold this Sunday.

Wings & Wheels - 24th August 2008

Could be a good day to try out some techniques (photography that is )

Going to Duxford in early September now - apparently Vulcan is flying again

Going to Duxford in early September now - apparently Vulcan is flying again

Yep, looking forward to seeing it again. It will be at Dunsfold as well.

Blooming working this weekend :( In the words of James May......."****!!" :P