Basically, how do I get the front bumper off?

Nowhere seems to show how it's done on the vRS.

Changing my radiator mounts on Saturday and would like to know how to do it before I start....

I'm assuming the headlamps are easy to remove.

I only have 1 day to do it in, is that doable, or am i being a bit optimistic. I have sneaky little hands, which helps when it comes to working on cars, as i can slip them down gaps!.

Cheers in advance guys.

didnt think the headlights need to come out? unless someone can correct me, im fitting my vrs front bumper at the weekend too, replacing my elegance standard jobbie

It's easy, and no... The headlights don't need to come out.

Open the bonnet and there are 2 or 3 torx screws along the top edge (between the headlights)

You need to prise the black rub strip away at both sides of the bumper, this will reveal two bolts on each side - remove these.

Pull both lower/outer vents out to reveal a couple of torx screws behind each one. Note the location of the outside air temperature sensor which is secured behind the N/S vent.

Working inside the wheel arches, remove the torx screws along the outside and lower edges, where the bumper meets the arch liners.

Underneath the bumper there are a couple of small bolts which want removing.

When you pull the bumper away, again, make sure the temperature sensor is unclipped so you don't damage the wiring. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes or so to get it off.

No need to drop the lights. Bumper removal on the vRS is the same as any Mk1 Octy.

TOOLS:

flat head screwdriver (mid size)

wrachet handle+ extender rod and 13mm socket IIRC.

a star screwdriver to remove the 10 or so screws from the arches and the ones by the bonnet catch.

first unscrew the star screws from the wheel arches. 2 across the bottom front and 3 iirc up the side.

gently remove the plastic under bits that slide into the bumper.

once removed you can use the flat head to pry one edge of the black strip. it jus pops off then follow it till the corner, then do the same on the other side.

you should then see 2 bolts on each side of the bumper. 13mm i think

undo them.

now remove the 3 star screws form near the bonnet catch.

SO FAR SO GOOD.

remove both side vents by locating the indent and pulling hard.

under there should be another 2 or 3 star screws you need to remove.

also look under the bumper as IIRC there are a further 2 or 3. easily visible.

ONCE YOUVE DONE ALL THAT THE BUMPER IS ONLY HELD BY 2 CATCHES ON EACH SIDE. DONT BREAK THEM AS THEY HOLD THE BUMPER IN PLACE FOR EASE OF FITTIN.

no jus gently ease the sides away from the wings and bobs ur uncle its off...............

took me that long to type it someone else beet me to it.

i did miss the temp sensor thing thou on the pass side vent

It's easy, and no... The headlights don't need to come out.

Open the bonnet and there are 2 or 3 torx screws along the top edge (between the headlights)

You need to prise the black rub strip away at both sides of the bumper, this will reveal two bolts on each side - remove these.

Pull both lower/outer vents out to reveal a couple of torx screws behind each one. Note the location of the outside air temperature sensor which is secured behind the N/S vent.

Working inside the wheel arches, remove the torx screws along the outside and lower edges, where the bumper meets the arch liners.

Underneath the bumper there are a couple of small bolts which want removing.

When you pull the bumper away, again, make sure the temperature sensor is unclipped so you don't damage the wiring. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes or so to get it off.

Cheers buddy, that doesnt sound too bad. The reason I thought i had to remove the headlamps, was that im changing the rad mounts, and it looks there is naff all access to the mounts. I'll take the bumper off first and see how i go.

you may need to remove the crash bumper too.

try and find the forge FMIC fitting destructions lol

they are good and will tell you ho to remove all that mate

how do headlight washers affect it if at all? are they attached to the bumper or body?

Well, I've changed the rad mounts, amongst other jobs that were made easier with the bumper off.

As said, 3 torx screws along top, 6 torx screws in each arch, 2 more in each side vent, and 2 8mm bolts through each side. The bumper came off really easily and quickly, which kinda surprised me! Mine didn't have the 2 screws underneath, and i guess it never did as there are no holes under it. Strange but true!

Cheers for the help guys.

Popped the headlights out to change the rad mounts aswell. Nearside mounts were easy to change, but the offside ones were a pig, especially the lower one. I almost gave up, but my persistance paid off.

No more knocking though! Hoorah!

I've attached a photo for your pleasure......

One man job?

I hear crash barrier weighs a bit and needs two? As mentioned nice guide for forge FMIC shows all steps.

Cor this old thread reminds me of the summer!

I did it solo easily, but I didn't remove the crash bar because I didn't need to.

You changing the rad mounts? Or just the bumper?

Some numpty hit car while back, near side of crash bar has pushed in slightly (1.5-2cm) and causes small lip on bumper.

Not sure how it sits, hoping I can just adjust bar and move it forward slightly so bumper sits flush.

Looking at this - http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/media/FMSKOFMIC.pdf

Looks like it may be an **** to level out.

Here are a few pics when i took mine off to fit a Forge FMIC.

It is a one man job, but better with 2, when wanting to remove the bumper to stop it dropping on the floor, same with crash bar.

These might assist you added to the instructions folks have posted.

Edited 17 February, 200917 yr by Bowders1

Merci, will help loads thanks.

Looking like hammer jobby to pull near side bracket out