Yes it is a bit misleading because all the wires are black

Ok been and took two photos, one of the alternator and starter motor, are these both wired up correctly?

the wire on the starter is in the wrong place, you've attached it to the casing, so you've created a short circuit. There is a little rubber black cover next to that Yellow wire with the spade terminal, under that cover will be a stud with a nut on there, that cable should be attached there instead, the wire that goes to the alternator should aldosterone be attached there too.

Ohhh ok il swap it over tommorow and hopefully it should sort it.

Put the wire in the correct place tonight, checked everything over and connected the battery, was fine. So thought id see if it would start, turned the key and it started first time! I am very pleased with this, only a few things left to sort out now and it will be finished. Warmp!

Well i think we may have fooked it! Went to start the engine again and the belt slipped across the top of the cams, tensioner was the cause, anyhow we tried to set the cambelt back up but the bottom end wouldnt go into tdc, took all the spark plugs out and spark plug number 1 looks like it has been struck by the piston, but all the rest were fine, so looks like taking the head off to inspect damage :( guessing the valves will be bent and the reason it wont go to tdc?

Will we have to replace the headbolts for new ones again or can we re-use?

Damn that's bad news, those valves are £18 each from vw.. What was the cause of the tensioner coming loose? dont re use the head bolts you will end up regretting it.

I know, im gutted as it was nearly finished.

Im not too sure what made it come loose tbh, the belt was nice and taut, admitedly we didnt use a new tensioner so maybe it was knackered. If its just a few valves that have been hit would you say replace just those or all? Or just get a new head?

Depends how bad it is, you should be able to see the valves that have been touched by the pistons, it will more likely be the intake valves that are worse.

Whip the head off and have a look.

Yeah will do, probs be sunday. I would probably opt for a new head tbh because i dont think i have the skills to change valves, unless im thinking its more complicated than it is

Took the head off today and as expected the valves are bent, two of them are actually smashed to bits.

The number one piston has some marks on it which look pretty rough but not that deep, would that be ok to go again or is it no good?

Edited 2 June, 201313 yr by nu99et18

That cylinder head is scrap, looks like one of the valve seats is damaged.. That piston will live again though, just clean it up and jobs a gooden... That engine is burning oil though I would say judging by the marking round the edges of the piston crown.

Yeah im gonna get another cylinder head. Looks like im gna have to change the piston rings then!

I would change them why you can be on safe side my 1.6 drinks/burns oil but v5 running gear comming soon....

If im replacing piston rings i may aswell swap the avy internals into the afh block hadnt i?

What new parts are required when doing this? Or can i re-use the lot?

What I need to do it??

What the conversion? Have a read through this thread, all the info you need

I just need the engine got two running 1.6 and one waiting rebuild

Do I need to replace the brake system with 16v engine ?

And what is the best choice ?

I don't think it mentions in the guide that VW Polo and Skoda Felicia Oil pressure switches work the opposite way round to each other. 

 

So you need an AEE 1.6 Skoda Oil switch to put in your 16V.

 

If you don't use a Skoda one the oil pressure light stays on. It is mentioned by Teflon Tom  somewhere else on here so I didn't panic when it happened to me today! 

Yes true that.. Had to do the same on my 20v car too, the oil pressure light on the dash is wired the opposite way round to a polo and golf.

Tom, your talents are endless! Read the entire thread ... Amazing work

i got some timing belt covers from a seat ibiza 1.4 16v (also with AFH engine code), although the engine code is the same in the seat ibiza version, the belt covers are different in this car becuase the ibiza has no engine mounting on the timing belt end of the engine. i cut a hole in the lower section of the cover to let my custom mount stick through.. good times

it's certainly a lot neater than the last one i made there is still an inner cover missing that i need to put on first before the timing belt etc, unfortunately it's on back order at the dealer

still in need of 2 parts to finish this off

1. felicia 1.6 petrol flywheel

2. alternator

i've decided to freshen up the gearbox a little too, going to steam clean it, and replace all the oil seals, and fit a new clutch release sleeve.. and put a new mounting into the end casing whilst it's all out

 

 

Sorry to revive a very old thread but this is just what I'm looking for, don't suppose you can remember a rough (I know it was a loooong time ago but) cost on this can you or have any part numbers anywhere?

Found part numbers for this done a lot of ringing around today and struggling to find now, most dealers saying discontinued!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO :'(

Hey

Im looking for more power on my Fun, its a 1.6.

Granted I dont understand much of the technical stuff mentioned here but I know I have most of the parts I since its a 1.6 right?

I dont think I can buy 2 engines to make this build (to expensive) so my question is what engine is the most straight forward swap?

If I buy the AFH I on only need to build the mount right?

If I buy the AVY stuff gets more complicated because of the IMMO right?

 

Sorry but this topic got way to complex