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Felicia 1.4-16v engine transplant


TeflonTom

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Have you got any pics rolo ? Yes you can fit a 1.6 16v crank into the afh block along with it's pistons and rods, if i was going to build another one this would be the way I would do it tbh, it saves a lot of faffing around with head bolts and the stud for the timing belt idler etc... BUT this only applies to the later afh blocks.. The real early ones used a chain driven oil pump, but then you could just use a crankshaft from a really early aee 1.6 with the chain driven oil pump instead.

Could take a finished pic and email it to you, I know how to do this. Could also send some of the mtdi/mvnt set up in the diesel pickup if you`re interested.

Will take the sump off the latest afh and see.

What year ish aee?

Edited by rolo
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TeflonTom: Can you send me cad files of the afh engine mount which you made? If itsn't secret..

If you resize, knowing the dimensions between the felly mount holes,(measure them), the diagrams that are posted earlier in this thread, you will get yourself the dimensions of the mounting, Tom did them to scale. My way anyway.You can make a more lightweight version and it works.

Anyone doing this via 1600 to 1400, note that the oil pressure switch on the aee is normally closed and the 1400 normally open. Swop them or you will worry about the pressure light being on and none when all is well

If you delete the egr it throws a fault code to the ecu which prevents you from doing the throttle adaptation so at least connect the coil to the polo ecu.

Just refiguring the whole avy straight in idea cos its a shame to unecesarilly strip it when its good

Edited by rolo
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If you solder a resistor in there rolo it fools the ecu into thinking the egr solenoid is still there, that's what I ended up doing on mine. The value of the resistor escapes me at the moment but I'll check.

I've been trying to find a ecu specialist that can switch off the immo coding on the avy seimens ecu unit with no luck so far.. I also think that it would be a far better conversion to use the whole engine ass it comes. There will be more said and done on this subject after I've finished the 1.8t build ( should be ready sometimes in the next couple of months).... The other thing iv been putting some thought into which might interest you rolo is using a set of motorcycle throttle bodies with the standard afh ecu and just a few simple wiring tweaks.. More on this subject tba..

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thanks go to rolo for these pictures... this is the finished result of the 1.4 16v engine installation in his felicia fun pickup... very nice and neat installation which retains an oem look.. great work.

looks like he's gone for an egr valve delete on there too by plating off the port on the manifold.. i guess corresponding hole on the intake manifold must have been plugged up too

034.jpg

036.jpg

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I've done just over 40k miles on mine now in 1.6 form with the standard aee clutch a and flywheel and it seems fine, and I don't exactly tickle it either!! The quality of the vw group crankshafts and the dynamic balancing processes they use is probably second to none. The flywheel willl only fit one way because the bolt pattern is offset and they are balanced to suit this.

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Thought you had some problems with the std clutch?

Yeah I put a second hand one in there at first which didn't have much meat left on it because I was being a cheapskate which did slip when going full bore, so I chucked a new LUK kit in there and it's been fine ever since.

Still on the original 1.3 factory gearbox with mine too at 130bhp coming through it.

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Ok I`ll use that then.

Wiring loom should arrive in the next few days. As soon as its here and checked, the ecu can go for a delete.Will try to find a gti front pipe, sort out the high level mounting and address the crank sensor clearance. Can you think of anything else.

If anyone has an aee intermediate plate I need one so`s I can assemble the whole thing on the floor first. Got a diesel box too.

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So, I have one (maybe) AFH engine in my garage :) . So going on 1.6 with bike carbs (maybe in next few months).

But there's only one curious thing. On the right side of block (flywheel side), somewhere under thermostat, there's AEX sealed. It smally mystified me, because it has AFH cylinder head, it came with AFH ecu and all other things. There's no any stick on the timing belt cover.

It that it's AFH engine and I don't know what means that AEX letters on the block, because AEX is totally different engine.

And one more question about [email protected] conversion.. I'm going to use my mates 1.6 AEE crankshaft (yes, I know that difference in oil pump). But, if you get the crankshaft with bigger stroke in block, where was different crankshaft, there won't be any problem with cylinder parts grooved from the 1.4 crankshaft? I think that there will be small stair between parts of cylinder which were used on 1.4 and 1.6 crankshaft.

Or I simply don't must think about any problems with this? Maybe it will only need one more replace of piston rings?

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Not sure about the aex stamp, got a spare ahf in the shed will have a look, on monday, under thermostat.

Oviously the swept section of bore will be greater with the 1600 crank and your point is good.

Had some experience of such a situation with the idi 1.9 diesel engine. The ring height on the turbo piston is different to the non turbo and have mixed and matched them, as, when used, the n/a engines are less stressed, by putting turbo pistons and rods, in non turbo engines to refresh the turbo set up in my t3 van

Used a cheap honing tool and new rings and had no problems.

Would/will do the same with the 1600 conversion but at the moment still trying to put the complete avy set up into the felicia.Cheers rolo

Tom, just bought a diesel estate for gearbox (cheaper than a box) so I`ll have studs and cap heads for plate if we can arrange transportation.

Edited by rolo
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Ok rolo, I've not been home for about 2 weeks so I'll sort it out when I get back. I might have to tap you up for some bits from the diesel car if you are up for breaking it up? I need a complete power steering setup, pipes, rack, column etc from a diesel felicia for my 20v car..

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Ok rolo, I've not been home for about 2 weeks so I'll sort it out when I get back. I might have to tap you up for some bits from the diesel car if you are up for breaking it up? I need a complete power steering setup, pipes, rack, column etc from a diesel felicia for my 20v car..

Got the complete wiring loom, chip reader and immo box. First look, no wiring diagram as yet, seems to indicate that is all that`s needed to activate the ecu. The clocks don`t appear to have any immo related stuff. Perhaps its like a caddy van similar year, they have an immo box and just an earth thats supplied, through them, to the box.

I`m assured by a couple of practically experienced folk, that, on both, you can swop the clocks plug and play.

Unless, of course, somebody knows different

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Found an ecu diagram. It needs low and high bus connections from the dash insert harness to connect the obd plug, will have ponder more on this set up and whether the ecu will let me leave off stuff without sulking. Got 2 massive piles of wiring that others removed Hmmm.

Tom which crank nose timing sprocket is on the 1.6?

Edited by rolo
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If the ecu has had the immo turned off then you Cn leave the high and low can bus connections as they are, there is a separate pin which will go to the diagnostics connector which is totally separate from the can system.

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Well the plan became to leave the immo on as there should be enough stuff here to make it work. The easiest,and cheapest, way to do a delete appears to be an unblocker that connects via the obd socket so not sure what it needs. There are four wires 2 bus, 2 diagnostic that go into the clocks, will have to open them up and see what`s what if poss.

Further thoughts on this are that the variable inlet timing appears to me to be little more than a lowering emissions feature. Similar to the reno engine that has problems with the dephaser unit.

Perhaps the avy will run with the valve timing on an rpm switch. Even in the on position. Solid pulley from the twin belt valvers? The reno won`t because the ecu says no.

You can see where this is going. Using the felicia loom and afh stuff and maybe an rpm switch.? Then why not just use the better afh head. Ah full circle.

Edited by rolo
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Yeah, I must admit there was a certain amount of logic went into my decision to use the afh gear.... The vvt system isn't just a switch, it's a pwm signal that comes in progressively at around 2000 rpm, they run a bit rough without it too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, I must admit there was a certain amount of logic went into my decision to use the afh gear.... The vvt system isn't just a switch, it's a pwm signal that comes in progressively at around 2000 rpm, they run a bit rough without it too.

There is something called an interface controller for the obd within the clock circuits.

Edited by rolo
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  • 8 months later...

if needed i can supply the custom engine mounting required for this conversion at cost (freedom members only)

Hi Tom can you still supply the mount? I've taken on the boy's Felly 1.3 Est and I'm making plans....

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Tom's not been around for a while, last I heard he was very busy with work, but you could get it made up using the diagram he put on here - shouldn't be expensive to get it cut and welded as it's a beautifully simple design.

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Made one up from the diagram---its to scale, so i measured the distances beteen the holes on the aee mount and those between the holes on the block and then got the diagram blown up `til the print out matched the sizes i`d measured.

Did the 1.4 first, but it was not for me, so moved on to the 1.6 which is a bit more like it

As tom said the mount is over engineered -- used 8mm and didn`t cut out the hole in the back plate, been ok for over a year. Good luck.rolo.

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