all the post talk about MPi but it seems im the only one with a carb felly...

i changed spark plugs regaped them to 0.80mm, new HT leads, valve set to .02omm (exhaust and intake), timing set to stock, carb cleaned and idle mix screw set to the point that moisture comes out of the muffler (in the afternoon, not the morning), idle set to 800rpms and filters are all new... The car sound like a charm, only noise is from the valve chain but not loud it uses about 1 quart of oil every two month and it doent seem to need new piston rings, (compresion good)

so here is my two dismeis, is not as peppy as i would like, i dont belive it has the torque or hp that a 1.3 suposed to have and im not getting 45< kpg

only thing is previous owner took out the thermostat so temp is always arround 70 degrees or ¼

Any Ideas GLX or Carburator Feli owners... thanks in advance

The engine never reached full temperature (should be about 90C or so), so replace the thermostat!

The last carbie 130 engine I saw figures for (Estelle/Rapid) only made about 60bhp as new.

Fit a therrmostat, check/reset valve clearances, make sure you're getting full throttle, check/reset tyre pressures and make sure none of the brakes are binding.

Should keep you busy!

Fit a therrmostat, check/reset valve clearances, make sure you're getting full throttle, check/reset tyre pressures and make sure none of the brakes are binding.

Should keep you busy!

will reset valve tomorrow, its easy, you just have to have two razors and a scre driver, tyres presure are @ 32psi but it would not account for such low mpg/kpg checked plug today and there is a little hint of lean (not so much) so its not that im burning excess petrol,

all i can think of is timing and valves

the thermostat is something i definetly want to put in but i can manage to increase the temp by leaning a little more the mix.. any advise on this

oh and what did you mean with "make sure you're getting full throttle" ?

many thanks in advances for yours sugestions

I wouldn't recommend making the mixture too lean to make it run hotter, best to just fit the thermostat.

Full throttle= make sure that when your accelerator pedal is fully down the carb is also at it's maximum...the cable may need adjusting.

i have full throttle, and i calibrated the valves, i had them @ 0.10mm, now they are @ 0.20mm and 0.25mm clerance (tighend the screw than 1/4 of turn for axhaust 1/5 turn intake coulnt check timing but it shoulnd be more than 2dregees of, ran it for a while and it doent seem to have more strengs, so im gessing economy hasnt rizen eyther

any sugestions..

Have you changed the tstat yet?

Have you changed the tstat yet?

the what???, does that come in the carb feli??? cna i have fries with that ??

seriously, i dont know what it is and if i have it, so goood answer would be no, havent changed it

aaaaaa, ok Thermostat, no the thermostat work perfectly, took it out when i bough it to clean it and measure ohms, it was ok, but since is a carburator felicia it doent accound for lean/choke

Leaning off the mixture will make the engine run hotter, but it also risks burning (even melting) the exhaust valves, so it's not a good idea for that reason alone. It also reduces power, which lots of drivers try to compensate for by driving harder, which reduces economy...

Also, is the carb a manual choke design? If not, then unless the engine gets fully warmed up, the choke might well not come fully off.

ive set the ignition time, re-calibrated the carb and i did the valves, the engine sound better but i dont feel that much more power in it i'll keep an eye out on fuel efficiency

one little thing... it seems i have a problem with the brake seals and all the brake fluid is depleting very fast, since i know that much ammount (a bottle in a couple of days) cand eject from the calipers (and ive check for leaks) i guess is going into the engine...

question is, how much of a performance degradation would that do, could that be the reason of such poor gas mileage ? and not feeling the car peppy enough ?

What's the brake pedal weight like? If you're getting brake fluid sucked into the engine I'd think there must be a servo vacumn leak to the master cylinder, and the brakes would be pretty heavy if that's happened.

Could you have a fluid leak from the fixed or flexible lines rather than the seals (which will show up as contamination on the linings anyway).

What's the brake pedal weight like? If you're getting brake fluid sucked into the engine I'd think there must be a servo vacumn leak to the master cylinder, and the brakes would be pretty heavy if that's happened.

Could you have a fluid leak from the fixed or flexible lines rather than the seals (which will show up as contamination on the linings anyway).

nop brake is light, but i have to press it almost to the end to get braking.

i see no fluid leaking from the fixed lines(metal ones) or the flexible (on the wheels) nut im not sure if those are the lines you mentioned

Now I'm really confused; I can't see how you can be losing fluid in those quantities without it showing up somewhere! And the servo must be working correctly, because it uses vacumn to multiply the force you're applying to the pedal.

Now I'm really confused; I can't see how you can be losing fluid in those quantities without it showing up somewhere! And the servo must be working correctly, because it uses vacumn to multiply the force you're applying to the pedal.

i see a streak of fluid below the master cilinder coming from where it joins with the booster tank, i guess is not that big but at a constant rate would explain the depletion of brake fluid and it would also mean a leak in the engine's vacuum wich would account for the lost power and fuel comsumtion

guess i'll be dismanteling the brake syste now and cleaning it to check everything

Would take quite alot of topping up to fill the brake servo to the vacuum hose level though, and there would be lots of white smoke I believe. If you tried bleeding the brakes recently by using the pedal method then that's probably caused the seal failure.

New servo and master cylinder are likely to be needed. Expensive :(.

Recently had the same happen to my car, not managed to sort it out to a condition I'd be satisfied to drive it in yet - hopefully a dry day tomorrow for a change to get something done.

Edited 11 November, 200817 yr by anewman

Would take quite alot of topping up to fill the brake servo to the vacuum hose level though, and there would be lots of white smoke I believe. If you tried bleeding the brakes recently by using the pedal method then that's probably caused the seal failure.

New servo and master cylinder are likely to be needed. Expensive :(.

Recently had the same happen to my car, not managed to sort it out to a condition I'd be satisfied to drive it in yet - hopefully a dry day tomorrow for a change to get something done.

How or may i say, what is the correct way to bleed the system, cus thats one of the things i would need to do even if best case senario

It sound to me like the leak might be from the master cylinder, and the servo is fine, but I'm not so sure about the tightness of the unions to the fixed pipes, or indeed the unions to the cylinder body.

Apparently what can happen when you push down the pedal to bleed brakes is the seals travel over parts of the master cylinder not usually used, which as not usually used have a bit of corrosion - which can damage the seal.

Eezibleed is probably the cheapest and best thing to use DIY, although can be issues with them leaking in my experience. Also not sure if they supply the correct size cap to fit the felicia or not. You connect it to a spare tyre and it pushes brake fluid through using the air pressure from the tyre. It also keeps the brake fluid topped up.

I guess using the pedal isn't an issue with a brand new master cylinder anyway, just with old ones.

It sound to me like the leak might be from the master cylinder, and the servo is fine, but I'm not so sure about the tightness of the unions to the fixed pipes, or indeed the unions to the cylinder body.

to be quite honest, i fixed the master cylinder replacing the bushin that pump the fluid, same as now i leaked fluid to the servo, and the servo was fine, only thing though it needed to be removed to be cleaned, wich since i saw the complete operation i can do miself given i have the tools needed, but i never expected it to get damaged so fast, it was just under 3 month that i did that

Apparently what can happen when you push down the pedal to bleed brakes is the seals travel over parts of the master cylinder not usually used, which as not usually used have a bit of corrosion - which can damage the seal.

Eezibleed is probably the cheapest and best thing to use DIY, although can be issues with them leaking in my experience. Also not sure if they supply the correct size cap to fit the felicia or not. You connect it to a spare tyre and it pushes brake fluid through using the air pressure from the tyre. It also keeps the brake fluid topped up.

I guess using the pedal isn't an issue with a brand new master cylinder anyway, just with old ones.

actualy now that you mention it, i guess the real reason the system got damage was the rain.... as i stated before, we've been getting a but full of rain and i guess the moisture got into the syste, making the breaks travel more and i guess there is some rust or some rougf spot there that damaged the bushin and seals, i'm very curious about it now that i think about it, im going to dismantel the master cylinder, hopefuly, a good cleaning and sanding is all it needs not to damage the seals and bushin wich cost about RD$60 pesos (in euros about 1.24) i guess i'll have to get some metal polisheer and realy fine sand paper, i wonder what metal is the master cylinder made out of