Hi,

Couldn’t find one source for this info for a 1.9d (here or google), thought it might be useful as I found the Haynes manual inaccurate on this job for the diesel. My alternator pulley wheel sheared (clutch seized), no warning signs or symptoms….. (anyone know a method to check????)

My car is a 1.9d Gli, with power steering and without A/C it is fitted with a Bosch 70amp alternator and an automatic belt tensioner.

A special tool set is required to remove the pulley and due to lack of space it looks impossible to remove pulley with alternator fitted. Pulleys with clutches are expensive, so it seems sensible to remove the alternator and assess condition of both before investing 60 odd quid (plus fitting of pulley, think I was done?) on a nearly dead alternator.

1. Jack the front end and place car safely on axel stands/blocks. Remove the metal engine splash guard (held on by 6 screws, two on each inner wing, two in the front panel).

2. Release the auxiliary (alternator) belt tensioner roller (visible from above / topside of the engine). A long 15mm ring spanner, (or short socket and bar)* turned anti clockwise (and held/tied) takes the tension off and allows removal (and replacement) of the belt and alternator retaining bolts ….

3. Disconnect the battery (radio codes??), from above you can remove the cables from the rear of the alternator (1 clip connector, and 2 nuts). Then from below you can undo and remove the two alternator retaining bolts. (Space is tight, I think I ended up using a 13mm socket on a ½” ratchet)

4.Now in (Haynes) theory you should be able to remove the alternator. Well I’m not Paul Daniels, or Harry Frigging Potter, so I had to:

·Drain the cooling system – single 13mm bolt visible from below on metal pipe feeding rubber coolant pipe into radiator.

·Disconnect various cooling pipes and tie them back out of then way.

·Dismount the power steering reservoir (don’t loose the rubbers and tie it back out of the way).

·Unplug, unbolt (3 bolts) and remove the fan (quite tight maybe, but does come out).

·Then dismount and remove the radiator, again quite tight, but if I can.... (two bolts, don’t lose rubbers between bolt hole and front panel), and also mind the two grommets the bottom locator pegs slot into.

5. Now you will definitely be able to get the alternator out. I was cursing pulling out the rad etc, but then I realised the coolant wanted changing and would be a good change to give the system a flush!

6. Get the new parts, slap them in and reverse the procedure.... (tbc)

*Alternatively you can use a 14mm open ended spanner on the opposite end of the tensioner (just below the fuel pump), this will give you enough to get the belt off, but I don’t think it will give you enough to pull out the top alternator bolt. Try first before doing anything else…

Ok, more than enough of that for now, I need some grub. Sorry no pictures as the close up button of my camera has crapped out, so all I got was blurry garbage….

This is just a first draft, so any concerns / glaring errors or other useful/usless bits to add/chop, feel free to chip in.... (be gentle with me…. it my first(time) guide:finger::P:guapo:)

Regards

Butter

Edited 9 November, 200817 yr by Mr Butter

Hi,

This post was a great help with replacing the alternator on a W reg Felicia 1.3 MPi with power steering and no air conn. Found it easier to use a 14mm spanner on the opposite end of the drive belt tensioner, pushing down to release the tension. Was able to remove the 70 amp alternator, out through the top without removing the radiator, by sliding it towards the middle of the car, but it was very tight. Fitting the new alternator I found it was easier to lower it as far as possible down the side of the engine, fit the drive belt, put the top bolt part way into the sleeve and then lift/manouvre the alternator into position. The drive belt tension needed to released while this was being done. I was able to remove the belt cover just by turning the offside wheel to full right lock, which enabled me to make sure the drive belt was fitted round the crankshaft pully. I didn't need to raise the car onto axle stands and remove a wheel. Couldn't have done it without Mr Butter's post though, so many thanks to him.

Edited 1 December, 200817 yr by Colin R

nice little quide:D although if you have access to a hoist it's quicker to drop the engine off it's mounting, lowering the engine down a tad gives you just enough clearance to get the alternator out without removing the radiator