My brake pad is a very tight fit on the mounting bracket side of the caliper carrier. Should I sand the ends of the new pad down a bit, or add copper grease, hammer in and hope for the best?

I have wire brushed the contact points on the carrier to remove as much corrosion as possible.

TIA

It's not something like the piston needing to be wound in???

No I've got the calliper carrier removed on it's own. Not got to putting the calliper on yet, but have wound that back with the old brake pad and a g clamp.

Definately don't just hammer in and hope, as you have just found why your brakes don't feel very efficient. Get a small file or flat bladed screwdriver and scrape the corrosion from the pad carrier where the pads need to move and finish off with emery cloth/paper. The pads really do need to be able to move in the carriers. While you're there make sure the sliders move freely too.

Still use copper grease though.

Thanks again Dave

It looks like the ends of the old pads had worn to fit - as the old one's slide just about well enough.

Top guide pin bore also had corrosion preventing movement of guide pin, so gave that a bit of sanding too.

Dont use copper grease on the caliper sliders, it will go hard with the heat and stick. Use a lithium based grease. Most motor factors keep caliper slider grease

steve

I guess it's usual for the sliders to be "springy"?

This video shows what I mean if that doesn't make much sense YouTube - MOV00023.3gp

:)Yeah, that's normal because of the "hydraulic effect" of the grease in the slider.

Is it common for the caliper mounting bracket to have corroded so it does not fit on a new disc (outside edge would be rubbing) or have I bought the incorrect disks. Just about to file off that side but wanted to check first as there's discs for models before 4/94 and discs for then onwards. Mine was registered in 4/94 so I got the 4/94 onwards ones (and I assume this is correct as my model has splash guards fitted).

Edit: Think I've ballsed it up and got the wrong discs looks like the new ones I have are more offset :S crap.

Edited 6 December, 200817 yr by anewman

Edited 6 December, 200817 yr by anewman

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Edited 6 December, 200817 yr by anewman

I've done that before myself, I think there are 3 different discs for the Favorit, 1 type for the Mk1 because of the different wheel PCD, and a late and early Mk2 type.

I guess it's usual for the sliders to be "springy"?

This video shows what I mean if that doesn't make much sense YouTube - MOV00023.3gp

i saw the video and it seems that they work perfectly, i actually took it out sand it with a very thin sand paper, put lost of grease and but it back together, but i don't get that vacuum feel to it

seems to me like you have the wrong disk, compared to mine (witch have the same caliper brake pad system) the disk is way thicker, did you install that disk now ? check part number against the old one

Not sure if you have seen the Delphi brake discs on Ebay (search for BG2909), they are for the 93/94 favorit so I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, they are in Leeds too, so you may save on the p&p. I have used Delphi parts in the past on other cars with no problems whatsoever.

Checked o.e. part no. of 115 430212 on Delphi Corporation - Driving Tomorrow's Technology and it cross checks with BG2909.

Later ones - o.e. 6U0 615301 are BG2910

Can you find any part numbers on the old disks ?

Not sure if you have seen the Delphi brake discs on Ebay (search for BG2909), they are for the 93/94 favorit so I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, they are in Leeds too, so you may save on the p&p. I have used Delphi parts in the past on other cars with no problems whatsoever.

Checked o.e. part no. of 115 430212 on Delphi Corporation - Driving Tomorrow's Technology and it cross checks with BG2909.

Later ones - o.e. 6U0 615301 are BG2910

Ones I tried were the last part number. Dealers happily refunded no problems despite light surface rust on one anyway. Looking at measurements online the ones I got were 3mm less tall, so I guess that would put the correct ones 3mm away from touching the bracket (which I think is about right).

I have bought delphi rear shocks off ebay and they perform noticeably better than the old ones.

Ones I tried were the last part number. Dealers happily refunded no problems despite light surface rust on one anyway. Looking at measurements online the ones I got were 3mm less tall, so I guess that would put the correct ones 3mm away from touching the bracket (which I think is about right).

I have bought delphi rear shocks off ebay and they perform noticeably better than the old ones.

so now the problem is fixed right???

so now the problem is fixed right???

Just waiting on the discs, but as they're meant to be 3mm taller they should be 3mm away from the bracket Bearing in mind the disc in the pic is 12.6mm (near enough 13mm) I think it looks about right too. For some insane reason I decided to paint my callipers so that will add some time to the job

Painting the callipers, sounds like fun

Well I did have to drop the open tin of paint on the floor inside the house

Lol. Will have to be more careful in future. Cleaned up ok though. I blame it on Christmas

Mines going for MOT work tomorrow

CV boot and steering gaitor it failed on. Otherwise even underneath its not rusty or that dirty!!!

I can hear the rear brake squeak when I let go of the pedal? is this normal?

And although the car stops the brake pedal doesnt offer much feel so would it be prudent changing the discs and pads also?

Only asking as you know the Favorit better than me.

I can hear the rear brake squeak when I let go of the pedal? is this normal?

And although the car stops the brake pedal doesnt offer much feel so would it be prudent changing the discs and pads also?

Only asking as you know the Favorit better than me.

Well don't quote me as I wouldn't say I'm an expert safety first and all that. I believe the system is almost identical to the Felicia anyway, apart from lack of ABS.

Rear brake squeak I would guess is possibly due to lack of grease on back plate pivot points. So long as the shoes aren't worn below minimum thickness, the return springs are intact, rear cylinders are not leaking or seized, the handbrake releases ok and the drum is in reasonable condition I don't think it's much to worry about. There's an inspection hole at the back of the drum with a rubber plug through which to check the shoe thickness but to be honest from my little experience it's usually easier and better to just take the drums off.

Discs should be ok unless warped, heavily scored (sort of like lines in the metal, light scoring is usual), pitted (which I think would be black spots in the disc caused by excessive corrosion) or near minimum thickness. I think warping would be evident in vibrations/steering wheel movement while braking. I think in your case the MOT tester wouldn't be able to see the discs as they'd be hidden by your wheel and the splash plate. Am primarily renewing mine as they are at 11.5mm at one point and minimum thickness is 11.4mm (plus add to that my bodged micrometer with a nail taped either side might be over-estimating the thickness). Plus I need to renew my pads anyway and lube the guidepins so mayaswell do the lot.

You can check pad thickness by looking through the inspection hole on the front of the caliper. I wouldn't bother checking disc thickness unless the pads need doing or you suspect a problem with the discs.

My pedal feels a bit dodgy too compared with another car. You might find yours feels better after having the fluid replaced. Going to try bleeding my brakes again after pads and discs and after the pads have had a bit of time to bed in - if the brakes don't feel as good as I think they should I'll probably be going to a garage. Probably a good idea to get the brakes tested on rollers like they do for the MOT anyway to check for even braking and braking effort.

New discs fit. However, the bottom guide pin bolt won't go on. Is there a trick? It looks like the hole on the caliper is lower than the hole in the guide pin. I have tried pushing the caliper in various directions.Tried both with the top one loose and correctly torqued. And also tried a g clamp to squeeze the guide pin in at the bottom. Been tempted to push the brake pedal in the hope that would straighten everything out and the bolt would go in.

Just thought this could be because the bracket was kept inside my warm house and the caliper is outside in 4 degrees. So maybe the bracket will shrink over night :confused:

Or maybe a G clamp on the caliper top and bottom at the guide pin bolt holes might give it enough lee-way to get the bolt in.

Edited 15 December, 200817 yr by anewman

New discs fit. However, the bottom guide pin bolt won't go on. Is there a trick? It looks like the hole on the caliper is lower than the hole in the guide pin. I have tried pushing the caliper in various directions.Tried both with the top one loose and correctly torqued. And also tried a g clamp to squeeze the guide pin in at the bottom. Been tempted to push the brake pedal in the hope that would straighten everything out and the bolt would go in.

Just thought this could be because the bracket was kept inside my warm house and the caliper is outside in 4 degrees. So maybe the bracket will shrink over night :confused:

same thing happened to me, had to dismount the guide, put a little head with a propane torch and align, no big sweat...

mmm... chrome guide and blue painted calipers (on a silver felicia) might look good