I have had the usual problems with my MK1 Octy with the car unlocking itself and the lights on buzzer sounding like morse code and the interior light flashing on opening drivers door and the mirrors moving outwards when trying to adjust them.

So I managed to gett the full drivers door loom from another MK1 Octy along with the convenience unit and drivers door control panel aswell as the drivers door window mechanism with control unit. I tested these on the scrap car before removing and everything worked.

I have spent all day on this and its still the same :mad: :mad:

The red LED on the drivers door does not blink at all.

What else could be causing this? the part numbers were all the same and everything worked on the other car before i removed them. I dont know what to look for next. All i can think of is that ever since i got the car the passenger side rear door remains locked and has to be unlocked and locked manually the electric window for this door works from the button on the door but will not work from the drivers door button.

I replaced the window mechanism on this door when i got the car and it was still the same, I didnt replace the central locking motor in this door.

Could it be that i have a micro switch fault in this door? and would this be causing the symptoms i am having with the mirrors moving outwards, lights on buzzer sounding like morse code etc.

Or is this something else, this is really driving me mad now i am £80 lighter, freezing cold after spending all day on it and it still the same. :confused:

Any help would be really really really apriciated :(

Sorry let me get this correct in my head. You have a problem with your passenger door, but swapped out the drivers door loom and electronics ?

I'm sorry to hear you're still having problems.

My first thought on reading your symptoms is that the micro switch in one of the doors/bonnet/boot is not functioning properly. It may have recorded a fault code which could point you in the right direction. I'm not sure if there's an easy way of checking each switch (you could take each door card off and test the switches with a multi meter... But others may know of an easier way.

What fault codes do you have?

What fault codes do you have?

I havent got access to vag com so its difficult. The susect door seems to be the rear passenger side door as this remains locked all the time and has be be unlocked manualy and locked manualy.

Would a micro switch give me symptoms of no flashing LED on the drivers door an no constant buzz when you leave the lights on etc.

What am i checking in each door central locking motor continuity or voltage present?

Its a nightmare - least i know i have got spares that work now...

Is it easy to remove the rear door central locking motor or do you still have to remove the door handle.

I might look tomorrow if its not snowing.

Sorry let me get this correct in my head. You have a problem with your passenger door, but swapped out the drivers door loom and electronics ?

Yes i did this because i was getting problems with the door mirrors not ajusting right, (moving outwards only) also the car kept unlocking itself overnight and windows winding down so i was advised that i should replace the drivers door loom, window mechanism and central conveinience unit which i got from another mk octavia from a scrap yard and all the part numbers matched up and i tested these on the car before removal and everything worked on the car that was in the scrapyard.

I thought that maybe the central conveinience unit or the drivers door control unit wasnt sending the correct signal to the passengers side rear door but now its not the case.

So i am now thinking that the problem lies with this door (passenger side rear) as this is always locked and has to be locked and unlocked manually,

I am a bit weary thought that a central locking door unit/motor would cause symptoms of the electric mirrors not ajusting right and the red light not blinking on the drivers door and also the warning buzzer for when you leave the lights on isnt constant.

Could this door be the next place to look at or given the other symptoms should i bee looking at the wireing loom on the passenger side of the car.

I am stuck guys and your help and advice would be imense.

Thanks.

I would concentrate on finding out why the rear door won't lock first,

I would concentrate on finding out why the rear door won't lock first,

Thanks I will have a look tomorrow but would a problem with the rear door cause the other many issues i have with the cars electrics.

I just hope that i find a badley broken wire somewhere in that side of the circuit. As i cant think what else to look at after this.

Thanks

Have you had a VCDS scan to find out what error codes are being thrown ?

Have you had a VCDS scan to find out what error codes are being thrown ?

No i havent had any scan on the car done as nobody near me has this and the nearest dealer is in morcambe (50 miles away)

What is the difference between VAG COM and VCDS.

The scrap yard are only asking £15 for the rear passenger side central lock motor so may be worth getting just to see. after that i feel it may be a wiring fault somewhere.

VCDS is VAGCOM (just rebranded). With out a scan you could be chasing your tail. You may find the exact fault with it.

Give the lock motor a try though if it's only £15

I've merged the two threads for you:)

Most garages will have equipment to scan for fault codes, not just main dealers.

well after replacing a load of parts in the above posts i thought that it could of been the rear side passenger door central locking motor so i got one and fitted this and its still the same.

I then decided to look at wires and came across a what looks to be a dody conection block in the front passenger side foot well I dont know what has happend here but it looks like the plug has got very hot at some point or is this something you guys have seen before. I have tried spraying it with WD40 but it hasnt helped.

Here are the links to the pictures...

Picture 1

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/justinbarrow/OctaviaPlug4.jpg

Picture 2

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/justinbarrow/OctaviaCarPlug1.jpg

Picture 3

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/justinbarrow/OctaviaPlug3.jpg

Picture 4

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/justinbarrow/OctaviaPlug2.jpg

I notice that this plug when unplug this conector that i loose all power to both front and rear passenger side doors and the cabling goes under along the bulkhead to the convenience unit.

Thanks for the pointers everyone

That's corrosion (verdigris), has one of the wires snapped off?

That back orange wire in the second picture isn't in it's connector properly looking at your picture.

You need to get that fixed properly as if that is connecting and disconnecting your car isn't going to be happy.

Also as Stu said you have corrosion there and need to clean it all up and find out where if anywhere the water is getting in.

I'd get a proper circuit board cleaner ,not WD 40, and clean it off as the corrosion can be conductive.

Also clean up the earth point you can see there and then give it a bit of a covering with WD40.

Thanks for this, it means a lot. As fard as i have poked the cables seem to be attached but it is so tight in there that there is hardly any room to move the block.

So is this water damage as i havent experianced any but maybe this is the left overs from the previous keeper who had the car.

Am i better replacing this connector or the complete front passenger door loom or can i get away with conecting another block.

Thanks for this

you ideally need to get it out, clean it up and put it all back together again. It also looks like one of the earth cables has broken it's holding eye, so you might need to get a new eye crimped on it.

Looking at that cable again it looks like red/yellow in the middle back in the second picture.

All of them need to be clean, well connected and properly in the block.

You don't need to throw new parts at it until you've got that bit repaired.

If the rear door item is cheap and might be gone soon, then get it as you can always sell it on, but don't go throwing parts at the car.

If the rear door item is cheap and might be gone soon, then get it as you can always sell it on, but don't go throwing parts at the car.

Thanks for this, I have been getting all i want from this mk1 octavia in the scrap yard, Yesterday i got the rear passenger door locking motor, and the loom for the front passenger door and the loom for the rear passenger side door.

I know the guy and he let me have the lot for £15

I am going to sort this connector out today so will let you know what happens as its the only thing that looks dodgy that I have come across.

I have checked both loom connections in both rear door B Pillars and they look clean.

Thanks again.

Well i replaced the front passenger side loom with a clean connector and its still the same :mad: So then skoda said it will be the drivers door lock so i went and got one off the octavia in the scrap yard they must have felt sorry for me and let me have it for £10 so i fit it and it still will not sort my problem.

I then got a local guy out who has Vag Com and he couldnt get any codes as the ecu socket isnt communicating with his lap top :eek: :eek: :eek:

My god i just dont know what to do, I have doors that unlock and some that deadlock now and then un deadlock when i keep trying the drivers door key.

I am realy thinking of selling this now and cut my losses not only that but i have stuff that i have taken off my octavia that works so have all sorts of stuff to sell on.

Any last ideas?

After looking at furby wiring diagram - removed post .

Edited 5 December, 200817 yr by VWD

I might just trade it in, we are xmas shopping tomorrow hoe can i make sure the doors stay locked do i have to remove the fuse for the central locking or the electric windows aswell.

Thanks

Now the car is locking me out of the drivers side door and rear passenger side door i cant even open the said doors when inside the car but if someone on the outside of the car pulls 3 times or more very very hard the door opens.

Its really doing my head in, I have also discovered that when i have my lights on and i need to wind down the windows they dont work but when i turn off the lights they will wind down :eek: :confused:

I think this car has got some serious electrical fault why would the windows not work with the lights on then when they are switched off the work perfect.

Just wondered if anyone has heard of this.

Thanks Again

From what i have read from your thread it looks like you have a water leak. Is it damp under the carpet?

I know from experience that on passats this is a very common problem and its down to the pollen filter housing leaking.

Have you closely inspecting the plug on the convenience ecu, it may look ok, but take it apart and check it. Also check all the connectors in the passenger footwell behind the kick panel.

Also check the wiring in the door checks as this is constantly being moved every time you open a door.

Sounds like a wiring issue you have.

Iam in carlisle so if your up here any time soon i could have a quick luck mate, i have VAGCOM and iam VAG trained techie, although now a Merc techie.

regards

Matt