Can anybody tell me where on the gearbox it is.

I've to change mine as the lights started to work intermittently, now nothing. :thumbdwn:

On the front of the turret up the top.

On top, near the shift cables.

It's more likely the wires are broken though, I had to repair the loom on my A3. If you have a old cable from a brake-pad sensor, you can use that.

Edited 3 December, 200817 yr by cjb

So that's below the "golf club", toward the Rad?

Yup thats it.

Wires quite often break as mentioned above, and the repair sugested is exactly what i do.

Yup thats it.

Wires quite often break as mentioned above, and the repair sugested is exactly what i do.

Roger that 'peeps' thanks. I'll check it out when I find my thermals.

ps; am I to assume it's the cables and not the switch?

Probably, symptoms are exactly as with my A3.

Thanks again.

I've got a set of brake pads, I'll check out which bit is required when I assess the situation, the picture may then become clear.

Brake pad bits - light switch :confused:

Brake pad bits - light switch :confused:

It's the connector you need- it's the same. The old one will probably have broken wires right up at the plug, so you salvage the wires and plug from the brake pads, and join that to the end of the wires in the loom- solder, heatshrink, and spiral wrap or cable tie it.

Roger that! Now I understand

I'll also add some liquid neoprene on the solder to ensure that don't fail.

Top man, thanks.

Found the offending broken wire, right at the plug as suggested.

Next bit ,,,,,, where do the cables disappear to & how much cable is there to play with?

Now, the most important bit ,,,,,, how the hell do you get to them!

I guess it's a battery & box off then.:banghead:

I usually go up from underneath.

Leave as much as you can on the brake pad wire and trim the plug off extend the wiring with the pad loom and plug in.

Roger that "L". Thanks.

I guess the options are, break the back leaning over or get 'cake' in the eyes underneath.

Didn't look to be much of a way through from below ,,,, when I assesed the situation from above. Does the undertray have to be removed to allow access?

If you remove the undertray and the passenger side side trim (that joins the undertray to the chassis leg which is one t20 screw and a good tug) you can get into it.

Right then, best get the full face mask on for the soldering upside-down job.

This don't sound like fun to me.

But ,,,, I'll give it a go. Thanks.

I did mine on my A3 from above, removing the battery and tray, as I don't have a lift available, and couldn't be **** dragging the ramps out of the cellar. I don't know how access compares on an Octy.

I did mine on my A3 from above, removing the battery and tray. I don't know how access sompares on an Octy.

Probally much the same, dis-connecting the battery causes concern to me, as some memories are erased!

Should only be the radio code, I'd say.

Plus maybe ,,,, radio stations.

Never the less, it's a tough job but somebody has to do it.

Thanks you-all.