hot tip:

make sure you are very gentle unclipping the door button bit (the one that goes up and down with the door locking). Do it as soon as you have the door carrier opened up.

Anyone knows if the LED has a fuse? Plugged it in correctly but it's refusing to blink...

Anyone knows if the LED has a fuse? Plugged it in correctly but it's refusing to blink...

Almost certainly not just for the LED, that fuse would be miniscule - probably around 20 or 40 milliamps

sigh - yes I know - have to get out a multimeter and check that its getting its 5VDC and if so it's had it. Otherwise it must have disconnected itself while I was refitting the trim, although unlikely as I know I latched the connector securely...

Still- on the positives - I have a window that works, there's another layer of sound deadening inside the door proper, and I found that one of the capacitors on the X-over had broken its connector. Now soldered up the sound sounds soooo much better....

How much difference did the sound deadening make, or have you not had chance to go for a drive?

I added in a layer directly onto the inner metal door skin. Previously there was a layer on the door carrier only. I had half a roll left over from doing the doors, under the hood and the floor some time ago.

Sound insulation on door carrier alone = really noticeable - good

extra inside = even better - it is deffo a noticeable improvement.

I still have some left over material to do the front passenger door but I think I'll put off that project for a manic long weekend where I have nowt to do tbh...

HTH

Bas