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Felicia 2000 GLX (carburator) fuel economy problem (EXPERIMENT)


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To go back to the first post if your temp is 75oc then a new stat should improve MPG no end as the ECU will be overfueling not thinking it is upt to normal (90oc) temp

US gallons are just under the 4 litre mark i believe wheras in the UK it is around 4.5 litres per gallon.

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okay new cables but still vibrating... i guess i should check it a second time and choose the clearance of haynes...but i can't imagine why the inlet should be bigger than the outlet...

a little vibration or much? if its a little, just adjust timing with a gun, in fact, set the timing with a gun and gap the spark plugs correctly (o.80mm) before doing the valves, i set the valves the way you said (i'm in warm weather) and mines feels fines, in fact, better than fine, it feels alive!

remember that changing valve clearance affect timing so you just need one step, also, spraying a good amount of DW-40 to the valve stems is a good idea after doing valve clearance to make sure valve seals are clean and working (and the valve is not sticking) but is very important to set the valves with the engine dead cold, following the rule of 9, and recheck everything twice if necessary...

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To go back to the first post if your temp is 75oc then a new stat should improve MPG no end as the ECU will be overfueling not thinking it is upt to normal (90oc) temp

US gallons are just under the 4 litre mark i believe wheras in the UK it is around 4.5 litres per gallon.

US gallons are exactly 3.78541178 liters (3.8 short) and even though i dont have a computer i know that a higher temperature is going to give me better fuel economy, (since the pistons are sealing and the oil viscosity is just right amongst other factors)

thats the last part of my experiment, right now is valve clearances, next is spark timing and after service check minor things like tyre with etc..

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a little vibration or much? if its a little, just adjust timing with a gun, in fact, set the timing with a gun and gap the spark plugs correctly (o.80mm) before doing the valves, i set the valves the way you said (i'm in warm weather) and mines feels fines, in fact, better than fine, it feels alive!

remember that changing valve clearance affect timing so you just need one step, also, spraying a good amount of DW-40 to the valve stems is a good idea after doing valve clearance to make sure valve seals are clean and working (and the valve is not sticking) but is very important to set the valves with the engine dead cold, following the rule of 9, and recheck everything twice if necessary...

Just a little vibration... I did it at an environment temperature of app. 10°C (it is winter) before that I drove the car 20 meters out of the garage. I checked it 5 times ... each time after turning wheels a few times... the spark plugs were renewed at adjusting the valves... Bosch Super 4 with 4 electrodes. Changing the plugs didn't change anything. Okay, after christmas I will do a throttle reset... Maybe it helps. But I drove it on the "autobahn" today... It arrives 140 km/h easier than before...

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Just a little vibration... I did it at an environment temperature of app. 10°C (it is winter) before that I drove the car 20 meters out of the garage. I checked it 5 times ... each time after turning wheels a few times... the spark plugs were renewed at adjusting the valves... Bosch Super 4 with 4 electrodes. Changing the plugs didn't change anything. Okay, after Christmas I will do a throttle reset... Maybe it helps. But I drove it on the "autobahn" today... It arrives 140 km/h easier than before...

the temperature might affect the valves tune, to compensate put a 0.23mm for intake 0.28mm exhaust that's where the vibrations are coming from or just do 0.25mm all around (remember to follow the rule of 9 and to recheck) and to answer, the alloy of the intake valve rod is different from the exhaust one, that's why the intake valve is set to 0.25mm

and yes, i actually have to press the pedal less and get higher speeds and quick acceleration, guess now i can put a briskoda sticker (wonder where can i get one)

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okay new cables but still vibrating... i guess i should check it a second time and choose the clearance of haynes...but i can't imagine why the inlet should be bigger than the outlet...

The reason why the inlet gap is bigger, is because the only thing pushing air into the cylinders is atmospheric pressure, and it is restricted by the air filter and carburettor . Whereas the exhaust gasses are physicaly pushed out of the cylinders by the pistons

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i rechecked my valve clearance with a hand-warm engine... 0,20 in and 0,25 out... all.

that's the setting i have now, and they're perfect

question; did you reset timing with strobe gun?, Didi you use the rule of 9?, did you set the idle above 750 rpm? all affect the idle (tick over) and will give you vibrations if you dont

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that's the setting i have now, and they're perfect

question; did you reset timing with strobe gun?, Didi you use the rule of 9?, did you set the idle above 750 rpm? all affect the idle (tick over) and will give you vibrations if you dont

i haven´t reset timing... and what do you mean with rule 9? i cannot set the idle speed... i do not have a carburator. i have the cpi... i cannot adjust anything ... only by obd

Edited by pollywog
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i haven´t reset timing... and what do you mean with rule 9? i cannot set the idle speed... i do not have a carebutor. i have the cpi... i cannot adjust anything ... only by obd

yes you can, timing is changed in the dizzy, there is a 10 screw holding it in place, loosen the screw, turn the dizzy untill you feel the engine running faster and turn back untill you get a little less rpm and a smooth idle.

idle is on the intake manifold, is a screw that pushes the throttle to a set opening.

and the rule of nine is move until the valve is fully open for example valve 4 and set the clearance for valve #5 (5+4=9) and do this math until all the valve clearance are set.

if you dont do it that way, you are doing it wrong.

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put some break fluid today and i notices that the fuel filter was getting filled with a lot of bubbles, that happens when there is little gasoline and the trip meter is on 60 km, (i put in two gallons) its sitll not over but i dont think i can get 20 km (to be even with last reading) or more (to show that the valve clearance adjustment was correct) i guess i might get 6 more (making it 33 per gallon a 12% decrease from last reading) i'm waitting to go out of gas to read the spark plugs, that way i can have two evidences to confirm is wrong valve clearance (even thou vacuum reading is ok)

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i nailed it, it gave me 33 km/g (20 mpg or 11.4 liters ~100km) but the car feels to good with the spark timing it has, so before 38 km/g (23 mpg or 9.7 liters ~100km) is 11% more than now so i don't think is driving style changes

guess it proves that 0.20mm intake is not the correct setting i'll go with 0.25mm all around tomorrow also, i'll start buying the filters and oil for the services (witch i will do before the 30th) to measure the improvement service will compose of

air, fuel and oil filter change

oil change for engine and transmission

partial disassembly and cleaning of carburetor

Edited by Cepheuz
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i made the final changes to the valve clearance in my car and i'm looking forward to a fuel consumption of 43 km/g (27 mpg / 8.8 liter ~100km) or more

final valve clearance is 0.25mm 0.23mm and by driving it a little i can tell that it has good torque and smooth idle ( i set the idle well bellow 500 rpm and the dam engine didn't turn off) spark plugs read good in timing but air fuel mix is going to need work

next step maintenance

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i still at 0,20 in and 0,25 ex as my expert said. the car is running fine and the dashboard counter displays 7.3 l/100 km. We have temperatures of about -3°C, means the engine needs more time to become warm. 7.3 in winter is normal.

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i still at 0,20 in and 0,25 ex as my expert said. the car is running fine and the dashboard counter displays 7.3 l/100 km. We have temperatures of about -3°C, means the engine needs more time to become warm. 7.3 in winter is normal.

your gonna have to explain or send me a pic of the counter, cus i dont have it (but if its what i think it is, boy do i want it)

and i wonder what would you get if you would set it to stock

Edited by Cepheuz
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the counter is just for injection models. okay, i will try the haynes settings when it becomes warme ... but i think it won't change because before i had the haynes value and a worse performance

:( no counter for my felli...

i too had the hayne value and got bad performance, i'm going to let my valve run the way i have them cu's they're a little dirty and burned so they need to clean them self and have room to settle in but i'm already thinking of a 0.23|0.20 for latter witch i think is the best for me or 0.20 all around that to me is the best setting for warm climate. (but that is after the testing)

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