i put 3.6 gallons of petrol in after the car ran completely out of gas and drove the car (with a gallon in the trunk, normally until the car ran out of gas again...

The car gave me 25 km ( 15 miles) per gallon and i drove for 3 days

this is the diagnostic i got from the car at that time;

. fouled spark plugs

. vacuum reading unstable at idle by 1 inch of mercury

. rough idle

since then i reset the valve clearance to 0.25mm all around and cleaned an reset the spark plug gap. and of all the symptoms the only one that is still noticeable is the rough idle, though idle speed before rough is much lower (before 900 rpm, now 750 rpm) and is not so rough just a little vibration, and due to the reset of the valve clearance i can now advance the timing much more without knocks and set the mix at a leaner condition without knock or loss of power

i put in exactly 2 gallons of petrol (high octane instead of regular) and a fuel additive to clean the fuel system so i would like you guys to gess... How many km / miles am i going to ride before i run out of gas?

after i use up those two gallons i'm going to do the maintenances;

. change oil, including a flush before

. change transmission oil(right now it has a quart of 190) to 85W90

. change oil filter, air filter, fuel filter

. clean carburetor with carburetor cleaner (partial disassemble)

how many km / miles per gallons do you guys think i'm going to get after that (maintenances and valve clearances fix)

things waiting to be fix;

. Thermostat (temperature is 75 to 80 degrees always)

. possible small leak in brake servo

. Coil and HT wires to fix weak spark (hoping that fixes it)

and after all things are completed in this list, how many km / miles do you think im going to get ?

i'll be filling the tank with 2 gallons of low octane gasoline all the time to test impact of fuel economy until experiment is completed.

My car runs on standard 13" aluminum rims 175/70R13 tires

what would happen if i go back to 165/70R13 tires or even 155/75R13 ??? even more km/g ?

Edited 20 December, 200817 yr by Cepheuz
added info

I am from Turkey and its a little bit confusing to understand gallon measurment instead of liter.

3.6 gallon petrol = 13,6 liter

25km with a gallon(~3.8 liter)

100km with 4 gallon = 15,4 litre for 100km

believe me its twice as much as than the normal value of ~8 liter (in town usage)

its obvious that you have a serious problem and your exhaust should be darker (rich mixture)

writing in english is harder for me i'm sorry for this i cant express my opinions clearly try to understand me

advancing or retarding igniton by turning distributor and listening engine for knocking is not proper way to adjust igniton timing.

in your message you said :

"...and due to the reset of the valve clearance i can now advance the timing much more without knocks and set the mix at a leaner condition without knock or loss of power..."

now valve train "ticking" and engine knocking which basicly depends on fuel octane and ignition timing is different things.

You know proper air to fuel ratio setting with carburator is always difficult job.

it must done by computer assist, checking CO emisions , Lamda value and adjusting ignition timing with strobe gun same time.

doing this job by listening engine sound and experimenting fuel consumption for proper AFR setting always fails at somewhere.

As a carburated 98 felicia glx owner from Turkey i recommend you to complete service your car firstly

* set valve clearance for 0.20 mm

* change oil and oil filter

* take extreme care for intake system especially filter and carburator condition

* change spark plugs (brisk or bosch)

* inspect distributor condition (vacume advance system)

* inspect distributor rotor and dizzy cap

* inspect HT leads resistance (throw it away and go for new set in my opinion)

* inspect engine operating tempreture conditions (cooling system components)

after that go for computer adjustment . believe me it'll be different.

As a fact of high petrol prices here nearly all carburated cars is running with LPG conversion.

I have LPG conversion too. If you are not satisfied look for something like that.

in Turkey full overhaul and rebuild a 1.3 skoda engine costs ~1000 YTL(turkish Lira) include new cylinder liners pistons rings and complete new cylinder head with valves and all necessary parts + Mechanics charge

check SKOPAR - YEDEK PARÇA

so no body cares about consumption like you, we basicly calculate cost for going 1 km

i can able to go 1km for ~0,15ytl with LPG (LPG 1 liter = ~1.60ytl)

Edited 20 December, 200817 yr by AhmetH

i can able to go 1km for ~0,15ytl with LPG (LPG 1 liter = ~1.60ytl)

check conversion and on my last reading (25 km/g) i can go 1km for ~0.20 Turkish New Lira (gas only cost) and Petrol 1 liter = 1.26 Turkish new lyra

1 U.S. dollar = 1.50250091 Turkish liras

1 Dominican peso = 0.028433 U.S. dollars

1 US gallon = 3.78541178 liter

i checked turkey in wikipedia, it seems like a place i would love to visit

there is a difference between imperial and US gallon!

the optimal valve clearence is 0.20 mm in and 0.25 mm out. 0.25 for in is just for cold regions at more than -20°.

there is a difference between imperial and US gallon!

the optimal valve clearence is 0.20 mm in and 0.25 mm out. 0.25 for in is just for cold regions at more than -20°.

yes, i know there is a difference, but here, in the Dominican Republic gallons are US gallons

i made a thread awhile back to make 100% sure of the clearance, everybody talk about the same 0.25mm in and 0.20mm out, i know have it @ 0.25mm all arround and if feels great, though i might be inclined to finish this experiment (after the oil change etc..) changing the clearance to 0.25 out, 0.20mm in to see what kind of mpg and power i get (sooner or latter that dyno close to me is going to see my happy face with a screwdriver and a wrench)

i know i should do everything, but i just want to see the impact on mpg that bad n good valve clearance do, and also tunning the carburetor and good air filter. and of course regular maintenance

after setting the valve clearance to 0.25mm all around i got 38 km/g that's a 60% increase in economy

next up maintenance... i need an extra 60% increase to get the fuel economy where i want it to be (60 km/g or 37 mpg) and another 25% to get maximum fuel economy from that car (70 km/g or 43 mpg)

do you guys think is doable in a carburetor model? (injectors are always more efficient)

As ive said in a previous post, Set valve clearances, timing etc as it came from the factory, make sure you have a good spark, there are no leaks or blockages in the induction side, you are using good fuel . and Stop worrying about your vacuum readings

. and Stop worrying about your vacuum readings

:eek: is not a worry, its a tool, the best tool there is i my regards to check engine condition combines with spark plug reading...

and valve clearance was stack (meaning 0.20 exhaust, 0.25 intake) and i was getting bad fuel economy, so i put them to 0.25mm all around and now i got better power spark timing fuel economy etc.. thats is one of the reasons i mad a thread in the past to make sure i got my valve to stock and ignition timing was set with strobe gun and that also made car loose power so i set it with vacuum and now the car feels good.

just have to iron out the kinks on the carb and if im not mistaken, i bet i can make that car go 45 mpg (even though its a carburetor model)

and valve clearance was stack (meaning 0.20 exhaust, 0.25 intake)

it's supposed to be the other way round... (0,25 ex and 0,20 in)

it's supposed to be the other way round... (0,25 ex and 0,20 in)

i'm sorry, i but in the thread i started for this specific subject i was told that the autodata CD and the Haynes manual both had the same value of 0.25mm exhaust 0.20mm intake

can you please tell me why do you suggest the values to be inverted though, i will test it and check vacuum spark plug reading and gas mileage to confirm the impact of this.

remember, this thread is a experiment to see the effects of various setting on gas economy and the % value of such..

that way, is someone's fuel economy is down by 10% from stock, then i would be very easy to tell what is causing the problem

A very good friend of me is an expert in Skoda ... He has had many 130s 135s and 136s... he told me the best were 0,20 in and 0,25 out...

A very good friend of me is an expert in Skoda ... He has had many 130s 135s and 136s... he told me the best were 0,20 in and 0,25 out...

well, to be honest i had them stock like the autodata cd and haynes service manual suggested and got bad fuel economy so i'm looking forward to test out the 0.20 in 0.25 out value

i'll do that today before service and wait till i run out of gas to see how much km/g it gives me its right now on 38 km/g but if i'm correct, this new setting will give me 42 km/g and more torque (since compression is going to be optimized) also fixing the spark is going to give me a 15% increase on fuel economy over that and service will provide around 8% but lets see, maybe service gives me more and afterward i'll clean the carburetor to get me to the 60+ Km/g

i went ahead and set the valve clearance to 0.20mm intake 0.25mm exhaust as polliwog sujested, and due to that i had to set the spark timing and mix a bit diferent, but end result is that the car responds well to the accelerator brisk through gears and i do feel the power and vacuum is above 20 with a steady needle, will post on the plugs tomorrow and hopefully, this is going to give me 45+ km/g

and due to that i had to set the spark timing and mix a bit diferent

what does that mean?

what does that mean?

it means that i had to turn the dizzy 1 or 2 degree and the idle mix screw to get a even vacuum reading (too much vacuum means spark advanced too much) on idle (tick over ) and 2000+ rpm and no knock back on load (accelerating going uphill etc..) spark timing and fuel mix ratio go hand in hand on carburetor model, change one and you have to change the other and there are many combinations giving you economy or power (and hopefully in mi case balance)

aaaaaaaaaaaaaah you got a carburator... that is why i cannot adjust it... i have a CPI...

but a Felly of 2000 with carburator ... where is it orignially from?

aaaaaaaaaaaaaah you got a carburator... that is why i cannot adjust it... i have a CPI...

but a Felly of 2000 with carburator ... where is it orignially from?

is not that you cannot, is that you don't have to, the computer does it automatic for you, and i has the advantage of having a "lean burn cycle" that carburetors don't, thats why fuel injected model are always more efficient

is sold here in the Caribbean, and i believe in other 3rd world country's, is very rare to see the mpi LXi GLXi etc. here but the fabia all come with mpi

i know that the carburator was sold in russia ...

i checked my valve clearence yesterday... i put it on 0,20 and 0,25 (in/out)...i just had to adjust 2 exhaust valves (because they were to loose) and now my car is vibrating in idle and the idle is very low (below 750) but i don't know how to adjust it...

i know that the carburator was sold in russia ...

i checked my valve clearence yesterday... i put it on 0,20 and 0,25 (in/out)...i just had to adjust 2 exhaust valves (because they were to loose) and now my car is vibrating in idle and the idle is very low (below 750) but i don't know how to adjust it...

you did it wrong i guess, best way to do it i my believe;

loosen all the nuts put the car on 5th gear and remove the parking brake, and make sure is stone cold

get a filler gauge and put in between the valve stem and the rocker, tighnend the screw until it just kisses the feeler gauge (kiss, not bite) you should feel a very light resistance while moving the filler gauge and tighnend the nut by hand, move to the next one

follow the rule of nine and you should be done in 15 min, then recheck all the valves with the feeler making sure you have the same resistance throughout all the valves

the order is W - H - H - W - W - H - H - W (W = exhaust (0.25mm or 10 thou) H = intake (0.20mm or 8 thou)) once done spray a generous ammount of DW-40 on the stems and springs to make sure everything is clean and the valve seals are working...

close the lid, check oil make sure level is ok and turn the car...

if you did it like i did, you should have no vibration, let me know how it goes

thats what I did... but my ignition cables are older than 13 years... i already had this problem before but a little less. and yes it "kissed".. the 0,25 fit, the 0,30 didn't and the 0,20 had space...

valve clearance affect spark timing, loosen the dizzy, move it counter clockwise untill you get the faster acceleration then move it clockwise until rev start to fall (if at max speed revs are @ 1200, let it drop until 900 rpm, if 900 ish, let it drop till 750) take a ride, if you feel that the car doent have umps you need to retard (clockwise) timing a bit more go little by little listening to the engine if you fell good ump but dont feel the accelerator respond good enogh go counter clockwise (advance) again, little by little

if you havea vacuum just accelerate the car to 2500 rpm and check reading, it should give you something above 20 inches of mercury, the go back to idle and turn ignition until you get the same vacuum reading and set it there

thats what I did... but my ignition cables are older than 13 years... i already had this problem before but a little less. and yes it "kissed".. the 0,25 fit, the 0,30 didn't and the 0,20 had space...

13 year old cables!!!!

check spark as well, if good spark, those are some good cables, if not just change the cables

how manny mpg where you getting pollywog?

i checked all plugs of the ignition cables and they are all very loose.. .first I buy new ones (after christmas ) because they are a bit cracky... and i will do a throttle reset... usually you have to do it after adjusting the VC...

may I ask you for a photo of the engine with carburator? never seen that in a felly..

with winter tyres i have ~ 7,3 liters / 100 km and with summer tyres about 6,5.

i renewed the spark plugs whilst checking valve clearence

okay, i took a closer look to the cables. the marten has tasted the cable of the 4th cylinder... okay, tonight i go to dresden and buy new cables...

okay new cables but still vibrating... i guess i should check it a second time and choose the clearance of haynes...but i can't imagine why the inlet should be bigger than the outlet...