Superb 130hp TDI PD -02 engine noise/vibration !?

[lallan7]

Hello folks.

Im newbie here, and the reason im writing here is that i haven't got any answers/solution for my problem from finnish skoda/vw forums.

This noise/vibration is NOT the usual thing on 1800-2000rpm, which everybody has with pumpduse-engines. its built that way.

I have this noise on all revs. Its not allways present, sometimes.

seems like when engine is in normal temp, it starts to come up. Sometimes when i drive downhill or uphill it hits back or when i take turns on low rpms. its brutal and shakes the whole car. When searching the noise with hood up, it comes from pumps/intake/intercooler area, manifold, hard to say. NOT from exhaust side...

Specialist said that something is off/loosen etc. in engine compartment. We haven't found anything! Its horrible, driving me crazy.

Is there anyone else in the world having same problem, or fixed already?

Sorry for my bad english im from Finland.

[Tech1e]

Could well be a dual mass flywheel issue from that description.

[lallan7]

Has this DMF something to do with engine temp?

Im not 100% sure, but when engine is cold it sounds the way it should, no abnormal vibration.

I have a manual gearbox, clutch doesn't slip its running OK. Car has 220000km.

[lallan7]

Its has nothing to do w engine temp, got the noise yesterday at 60-70c. ill just have to start dismantle things and check.

[Bluefox]

At that mileage I'll line up behind Lummox and his DMF suggestion.

Get the cheque book out

[Tom_vRS]

Try taking the engine cover off and leaving it at home.

Certainly worth a punt.

[Bluefox]

Try taking the engine cover off and leaving it at home.

Certainly worth a punt.

Um, yeah, I...er.. I meant that as well... er...

Whatever trevor! You're going to tell me you're a Middlesbrough fan as well now, just to really make my night :(

EDIT: I'm less fussed now as we won in the end

Edited 30 December, 2008 by Bluefox

[lallan7]

I am aware that engine cover makes some noise too, im working on it. I'll have to take a chitchat w local skoda service, can they take a look at it.

Im afraid will this DMF repair cost me a big money in worst case?

Thanks everyone for helping me about.

[Bluefox]

Im afraid will this DMF repair cost me a big money in worst case?

If you need a new DMF/clutch then I'm afraid that you won't see much back from £1000.

EDIT: I've just realised you're in Finland - but either way it's still expensive!

Edited 30 December, 2008 by Bluefox

[Tom_vRS]

IF it is the DMF then it could potentially be quite expensive.

Do you have the 6 speed gearbox?

[lallan7]

5-speed.

[Tom_vRS]

DMF problems aren't as common on the 5 speed box, so you might be lucky!

[FinPatch]

5-speed.

DMF indeed may be worth checking carefully.

If it goes under replacement I would be checking solid unit alternatives also.. If I recall correctly Sachs makes a replacement solid unit which is not DMF construction and can handle more torque too.. with a cost of convenience which this DMF brings to Superb..of course.

[Tom_vRS]

I'd do plenty of research before swapping to a SMF unit. Its not something I'd consider personally due to increased noise and vibration.

[lallan7]

I read some posts (googled) regarding to DMF's in VAG engines, oh dear sad stories.

I reckon the same symptoms, sometimes i smell some burning inside the car with idle revs. could be the air valve of DMF, maybe..

If i would knew this thing when chancing my -00 octavia to this one, maybe re-consider the car deal.

But anyway, some people say SMF's aren't so bad, even unoticeable chances compared to dmf's. Cheaper, Vaneo clutch kit + flywheel 465€.

But then, Superb supposed to be higher-class/almost luxury car (as to me!) and making cheap compromises doesn't feel good at all. All of these what-ever flywheels should hold up to 500 000km. That's my opinion.

I'll give a call to Skoda speialist and give it to service....

[Bluefox]

Hmm - I'd say unless you're planning on running vastly in excess of 300lb/ft torque, don't bother with a SMF... seemingly most people on here with them (Devonutopia et al?) are running highly modified engines.

[lallan7]

Good news and some bad news.

The DMF is fine. VW and Skoda repair specialists confirmed that today.

Alternator belt-tensioner's wheel & damper are totally wasted. When this magic noise comes up, this belt makes 2-3cm jumps (i mean its loosen) shakes and rattles whole engine.

I also noticed the steering-pump has 3-4mm sideway "clap" or how to say, swings back and forward. Is this really normal or is it broken? Skoda specialist said that it should move a little bit, not too tight. Im used to handle tight bearing and stuff so im quite suspicious.

I and this repair dude also have a little battle, what to fix or not. He is convinced that alternator's 2nd wheel (a little one under alt.) is broken too. We took some little inpection and it was in good condition. Eitherway it will cost 200-300€.

One thing we have thought is, how in the h*ll these guys at repair's and all the people in the world chance these smaller belts? Your hands won't fit there!

I heard there is some secrets that repair shops wont tell. One thing they can do is swing all the front stuff backwards (cooling system) and then there is a big space! I can find the locking nuts of this system, but is there DIY guide, topics or journals how to do this?

Thanks!

[rotodiesel]

The main problem with the muti-vee drive on the B5.5 is the alternator pulley. This contains a freewheel which gets hammered to death by the torsional oscillations in the drive and eventually fails. Ususally it seizes so that the whole belt drive oscillates at idle which you may be seeing. Often the pulley comes apart and makes a bid for freedom via the fan - so don't negelect it.

To test the pulley in situ, put a screwdriver very carefully into the front of the alternator and try to turn the internal fan. It should turn easily clockwise as you look at it and be solid (instantly) when turned anticlockwise. Don't damage the windings.

The front panel of the B5.5 is designed to pull forwards by about 120mm to give access to the cambelt and other components. It can be held in this position with pieces of M8 studding, nuts and a couple of wooden blocks. To fix the alternator pulley, it's easier just to remove the whole machine - to get the bottom bolt out either move the fan forwards (one M8 internal hex bolt from behind) or chop the lower bolt in half and replace it with a stud and nut.

You will need a couple of splined keys to change the alternator pulley - best to take the machine to an alternator repair shop and bribe the owner if you haven't got them...

rotodiesel.

[Bluefox]

You will need a couple of splined keys to change the alternator pulley - best to take the machine to an alternator repair shop and bribe the owner if you haven't got them...

Hmm. Why do I get the suspicion you have said keys? What are you after?

[Bluefox]

The DMF is fine. VW and Skoda repair specialists confirmed that today.

Good news on the DMF - as for the belts and so on, Roto's well versed in this area as are some others.

Speaking of which, has anyone seen DieselV6 recently? Or Baker? Even Allclowns? In fact, there seems to be very few regulars around here except myself and the 'diesel.

[lallan7]

There is one problem, strut bar between front bumper and engine body-frame that interferes when bending the radiator complex backwards.

This 10cm strut bar has one m8 attached to body frame, but solid with bumper on the other end. It seems that i have to crack it, or dismantle the front bumper and front lights.

Is there any way round it?

If i can bend this radiator complex backwards (12cm as you say) and unscrew radiator fan (only one hex m8 at the head of fan?), i would have a plenty of room doing things to my engine.

[rotodiesel]

You have to take the front bumper (outer plastic skin) right off and release the various fixings in the wheel arches, undertray and lock carrier assembly to pull the front into the "service" position. There are (I think) 3 Torx head M8 bolts each side securing the crash bar.

As long as all of the bolts are free (wise B5.5 owners take them all out and grease them before it becomes absolutely necessary to get them out - especially the little blighters in the wheelarch) pulling the front out is dead easy. Have an assistant to help remove the bumper skin as its unweildy and floppy and can easily be scratched. I usually move the front a few mm forward then put masking tape around the edges of the front wings to avoid possible paint damage.

The M8 bolt for the fan is screwed in from the rear and goes round with the shaft. There is a hole in the bracket which will just clear a standard 1/2" drive hex key. Officially you need a 2 pronged tool to stop the fan hub rotating whilst you unscrew it - there are 2 holes in the hub for this purpose. There are other ways - especially if you are going to renew the belt anyway...

rotodiesel.

[lallan7]

Ok thanks alot.

I think this strut bar could be modded easily, to be removable without removing bumper:

Could save lot of time when chancing belts?