Hi. This is a follow on to a thread in VAG-Diagnostics.

Have a split breather hose which is cause the "..mixture too lean" error appear.

I was directed to the cause and cure of the problem, which is in this thread ;

http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/vrs-error-code-171-bank1-lean-please-help/84522/

As per the excellent advice there, the pipe is split (approx 1 inch), and I patched it up in situ.

Part No : S06A103221BK

I now have the part in question, and had an attempt at removing the plate that surrounds the dipstick, but there are still pipes connected that make changing this pipe abit of a pain in the ****!

What is the best way to do this? Any suggestions welcome, as I fear I'll do more damage by trying to move hoses and connectors out the way...

(Pictures from above-mentioned thread, showing pipe)

cheers.

(This pic shows a repair done by Lummox, 2007)

Location under inlet manifold. How do you get (safely) in about there?!

Edited 10 January, 200917 yr by gm2112

Just need to know (roughly) what all has to be removed to get in about this pipe - anyone? :confused:

"Bump" :confused:

Undo the two nuts and the two hex key bolts which I have circled and then lift that whole plate up and out but be careful as where Ihave drawn the little line line theres a clip which connects to the dipstick, you don't want too snap this as its your dipstick and that would be bad. This will allow you access too the breather, it's very tight under there but thats the best your going too get. If your stuck give me shout and I'll try and remember how my mate did it if I can.

HTH

Thanks for that - was very careful with the plate and dipstick as you mentioned !

Thing is from there in, my baby girl would have difficulty getting a hand / screwdriver or set of grips in to the far end of the pipe. :confused:

Seems a hell of a lot of "attachments" to remove to get the bugger out. Will try and have a crack at this again, but if your mate knows any further tips, it all helps!

Cheers.

G

Yeah If I remember right the other end is the hard bit, I think he coated the new pipe with a touch of WD40 or similar then just pushed it in to the other pipe and left the factory clip in place rather than faffing about with a jubillie clip way down there in the bowels of the engine bay.

got to do mine too and been wondering the same thing, its really tight, have you taken off the plastic engine part (not the top cover) but the L shaped one thats at the front and goes round the side?

got to do mine too and been wondering the same thing, its really tight, have you taken off the plastic engine part (not the top cover) but the L shaped one thats at the front and goes round the side?

Yeah, taking that off is necessary to get the plate off underneath. Its the connections at the right if the manifold that seem impossible to get out the way without damaging them.

Yeah If I remember right the other end is the hard bit, I think he coated the new pipe with a touch of WD40 or similar then just pushed it in to the other pipe and left the factory clip in place rather than faffing about with a jubillie clip way down there in the bowels of the engine bay.

Interesting idea. Getting the clip "loose" must be a bit tricky though? Mole grips I suppose...

Keep these tips coming!

My new hose is held on with a zip tie on the inlet manifold end.

That plate with all the vacuum crap is a right pain in the harris!

Almost lost my rag changing the N249 on the back of that plate. Takes some patience!

Any further offers before I have another crack at this tommorow? :eek:

if you want to move the plate further out of the way you can disconnect the secondary air hoses from the air box and take them off the plate as well. this allows you to move the plate further out of the way. you still need to be careful around the dipstick though as it will be as brittle as the breather pipes. HTH

IIRC when I did mine I did the top breather (the y one) the down breather and the thin one you are doing. I found it easier to take the crankcase breather out with the pipes, I then cleaned the pressure valve and did the awkward end on the garage floor, this was then threaded back into place (bit of a pita to get the breather back in but much easier than trying to get the small pipe in to place on its own) and connected up the easy ends.

Hands severley gouged and some hair loss but job now done. Thanks to those who offered tips!

(Take as much ***t out the way as you can - its all in the preparation, it seems..)

Hands severley gouged and some hair loss but job now done. Thanks to those who offered tips!

(Take as much ***t out the way as you can - its all in the preparation, it seems..)

knuckles grow new skin but the fiver for the dipstick will be gone for good has it made a difference to the driving?

knuckles grow new skin but the fiver for the dipstick will be gone for good has it made a difference to the driving?

Thanks Karl - yes it has. Reset the fault that was appearing, All is well - though I am away to start the "Secondary Air Pump"-new-bolts/re-sealing box of fun...

(Sounds like a dyson/Daffy Duck on speed at the moment).

Thanks Karl - yes it has. Reset the fault that was appearing, All is well - though I am away to start the "Secondary Air Pump"-new-bolts/re-sealing box of fun...

(Sounds like a dyson/Daffy Duck on speed at the moment).

I was lucky with mine as it was just noisy but some people have rough running when the SA pump is running. It is a very easy fix though, you do not have to remove the pump completely to do it though. just take off the pipes, remove one of the bracket bolts, loosen the other and then move it slightly and then you can rotate the pump around doing one bolt at a time.(you do need to be able to work upside down though:D)