Hi,

Me again...asking a few questions as I've never owned a car like the VRS or a diesel for that matter so not really sure on a few bits.

The clutch bite, seems low/early to what I'd expect. Could this be air in the hydraulics? I'd also describe the clutch...when its down between 1/4 and 3/4 as a bit...feels like its scraping on something? It doesn't make a sound so I'm not sure on that one.

After any period of driving over about 5 minutes, when I come to idle, the engine is still revving and its got about 1100 on the counter. If I put my foot under neath the accelerator and pull it forward a few mm it stops and drops to around 900. I'm guessing it shouldn't be like this?

The rear left passenger door, also takes a lot of effort to close. It feels very "soft" when you try to close it and kind of bounces back if you don't slam it hard enough. Being soft I think it maybe the seals, but it doesn't do it on the other side. It's an SE and reading about all the rear door seal problems, did they make these seals fatter, as they are pretty big?

And finally........the rear heated screen button gets stuck in and you can't switch it off. Sometimes it pops back out after about half an hour, others you have to prod it. I can see where the previous has owner has been getting at it with a screwdriver as he's slightly scuffed the stereo. Why he didn't take it to Skoda as it's under warranty I don't know, bit thick to be honest .

Anyway, the reason for my long list is, that as it's still under warranty I want to make sure everything is sorted. I went to my local dealer and they wouldn't even look at it without an appointment (nearest, two weeks away). I had the heated screen button stuck at the time, and they basically said it will be fine for two weeks and it isn't a priority!

With my Yaris, Toyota bent over backwards to help and twice I went without an appointment and they sorted mechanical problems out.

Other than these little bits though, I love it :P

And finally........the rear heated screen button gets stuck in and you can't switch it off. Sometimes it pops back out after about half an hour, others you have to prod it. I can see where the previous has owner has been getting at it with a screwdriver as he's slightly scuffed the stereo. Why he didn't take it to Skoda as it's under warranty I don't know, bit thick to be honest .

Try pulling the HU down away from the buttons very slightly, when I put my standard HU back in it nipped the ASR button slightly so when I pressed it it stuck on for a while but did pop back out with a bit of fiddling lol

I pulled the HU away from the buttons slightly and its been absolutly fine since

Hi,

After any period of driving over about 5 minutes, when I come to idle, the engine is still revving and its got about 1100 on the counter. If I put my foot under neath the accelerator and pull it forward a few mm it stops and drops to around 900. I'm guessing it shouldn't be like this?

Other than these little bits though, I love it :P

Throttle pedal position sensor is faulty. Takes 20 minutes for dealer to replace.

Thanks for both of your replies

Wondering if anyone can shed any light on the clutch or rear door?

The clutch bite, seems low/early to what I'd expect. Could this be air in the hydraulics? I'd also describe the clutch...when its down between 1/4 and 3/4 as a bit...feels like its scraping on something? It doesn't make a sound so I'm not sure on that one.

When you say low do you mean it's near the floor or near your chin?

Without not seeing this it's hard to say but the fabias have a dual mass flywheel which acts as a damper and this can rattle

Hydraulic clutches are often lower than your taste would set a cable clutch. That said, they are truly self-adjusting in real-time, so are more consistent in biting point than a self-adjusting cable clutch that worked would be.

The only way to identify if they need bleeding is if they have a spongy feel at the top of the travel that suddenly weights up..