ok i think you are getting confused a bit by the way it is expressed

the cylinders are numbered 1-4 from left to right, with number one being the opposite end to the flywheel (no expense spared on the high quality drawings:D)

first cylinder fires, then number 3 cylinder fires, then number 4, then number 2, hence 1-3-4-2 firing order:confused:

this has gone way off topic now

ok i think you are getting confused a bit by the way it is expressed

the cylinders are numbered 1-4 from left to right, with number one being the opposite end to the flywheel (no expense spared on the high quality drawings:D)

first cylinder fires, then number 3 cylinder fires, then number 4, then number 2, hence 1-3-4-2 firing order:confused:

this has gone way off topic now

now i got it thanks, yes, that is exactly how i have it

thank god you din't spare expenses on hat drawing, it cleared up a lot, jajajaja

You guys had me doubting myself there, so I checked a manual - it would normally be 1-3-4-2 for an in-line 4 cylinder engine, to achieve the best primary mechanical balance, and spread bending loads along the crank as best possible!

You guys had me doubting myself there, so I checked a manual - it would normally be 1-3-4-2 for an in-line 4 cylinder engine, to achieve the best primary mechanical balance, and spread bending loads along the crank as best possible!

we all have it the same way, its just expressed diferently

1-3-4-2 is The cylinders firing order as arranged in the Dizzy

1-4-2-3 is the cylinders firing order as arranged in the block

so;

cylider 1 on the block, positio 1 on dizzy

cylinder 2 on the block, position 4 on dizzy

cylinder 3 on the block, position 2 on dizzy

cylinder 4 on the block position 3 on the dizzy

if you look at the dizzy position the numbers are going to be 1-4-2-3, if you look at the cylinder number and note when they fire is going to be 1-3-4-2

that's all, but is the same thing, there's only one post that doesnt agree with this, i got i because of the highly detailed and technical drawing jajajaja, that it was all the same but express diferently

and the earth point for the ecu is on the inner wing(right hand side as you face the car) on a felicia, under the strut brace

The 4 10mm nuts on the top of the box are also main loom earths, and without these being totally clean and grounded, the car will not run nor even attempt to run. The brown earth wire is not a common fail point.

you will need a 10mm spanner to take it off.

8mm on some models, dependant on year. Socket and extension recommended - spanner much too awkward

(also: apologies to all for the furore caused by my mis-type re: firing order. I'll think of a good excuse for it later )

shucks!, my bad... guess i was just cranky because of my period, jajajaja (the punch line i'm a guy lol) editing previous post to correct that

i guess that shirk i went to to deal with my past alienation problems rip me off, lol but all's good.

oh and by the way, the firing order you mention was the same on my 86' VW Golf GL and i check my engine again (when i took the picture) and it read (on the block) 1 4 2 3 and it maches the order in the dizzy cables (clockwise) could the 135, 136, and the VW engined Skoda have that discrepancy ? or does the numers in the block mean something else ?? (i'm a bit confused) :confused:

and while i'm at it, my humble apology for reading the thread wrong

I didn't even see it, so no worries man We cool.

Yeah, I wrote the order down wrong, but I've fixed it now. But the VW and the Skoda engine wont be the same... the felicia never had a VW 1.3 engine, its a Skoda designed engine

i'm back!

after fitting a new ignition coil i have had 2 trouble free months and now the car won;t start again. story as follows:

went to fill up with petrol and must've been driving on fumes by then. pulling into the station the car cut out a couple of times, which i put down to the fuel situation.

having filled up it kept doing it. it would start but then the engine would cut out as soon as the engine came off auto choke. i could keep it running if i revved it, but it would splutter or not really respond to the throttle. come off the gas and it would die.

i suspected a fuel issue so checked fuel pump fuse and relay, all ok. i found out the fuel filter is beneath the car so didn;t check that, but did take the air filter off too look at the injection unit and found my throttle cable to be very loose. fixed that, put the filter back on, car wouldn't fire at all.

now, i have had the AA out and the guy said i wasn't getting a spark and as i'd had the new coil put on said the problem was the crank position sensor. i have replaced this and the car still won't start.

any ideas? i intend to do a full elec. check again tonight. how do i check whether the crank sensor is ok as i got it from a breaker's yard?

nightmare. have been on the bus all week and am sorely tempted to scrap the bloody thing!

i'm back!

after fitting a new ignition coil i have had 2 trouble free months and now the car won;t start again. story as follows:

went to fill up with petrol and must've been driving on fumes by then. pulling into the station the car cut out a couple of times, which i put down to the fuel situation.

having filled up it kept doing it. it would start but then the engine would cut out as soon as the engine came off auto choke. i could keep it running if i revved it, but it would splutter or not really respond to the throttle. come off the gas and it would die.

i suspected a fuel issue so checked fuel pump fuse and relay, all ok. i found out the fuel filter is beneath the car so didn;t check that, but did take the air filter off too look at the injection unit and found my throttle cable to be very loose. fixed that, put the filter back on, car wouldn't fire at all.

now, i have had the AA out and the guy said i wasn't getting a spark and as i'd had the new coil put on said the problem was the crank position sensor. i have replaced this and the car still won't start.

any ideas? i intend to do a full elec. check again tonight. how do i check whether the crank sensor is ok as i got it from a breaker's yard?

nightmare. have been on the bus all week and am sorely tempted to scrap the bloody thing!

dont know if it apply to you, but in my engine the coil had a module that was black flat rectangle (ignition) and i've seen it in metalic, anywho, the thing is a mayor pain here in the DR and most people change it for another, if that doestn work, you get no spark...

i kinda give you a warning before failing on you, the car starts fine, you run with it and then sputters, but after keeps going on...

after a while of doing this the engine starts fine, then it shuts off, when the module cools of (a term, cus it doesnt get hot) the car starts again and runs as if nothing happend...

the the engine wont start, but if you jump two cables in the ignition (while your turning the engine) it starts (but might fail)

hope this helps