Hi All

New on the forum.

Thanks to Fatty 500 didn't realise that thread was 3.5 years old - LOL

I have had my Oct VRS for 3 years I had a similar problem last your took it to the dealer who also said no fault found!! I know there's a bloody fault still I left it & eventually it got so bad that I took it back they again read the memory found 2 faults bottom boost hose was soft & a breath had split, so I replaced them (used to me a mechanic) seemed ok for week or so & now it's back going to take it back get them to read the memory again see what they say.... but it's driving me NUTS

I had the same problem with my S2 Escort RS Turbo problem there was the Actuator replaced it wit a Garrat -34 it then held the boost all the way to 7200rpm, well it did after I modified the limiter ;-)

I think the VRS has the same issue so does anyone know what & where to get an uprated actuator?

Regards

Alex

Ok further to the above, I went back to my local friendly neighbour hood dealer (Withams), who I have to say were very helpful as usual & re did the diag for free & reset the ECU!!

They informed me that there was a couple of faults these generally relate to the throttle body being dirty a common issue or a boost valve although I have no idea what valve this is?

I haven't had a chanc eto clean the throtle body yet so fingers crossed, however I would still like to know where to purchase a new actuator?

Also I think I read on here the a standard VRS runs 10psi is that correct? how much extra boost can be run safely on a standard engine & is there anybody in the woking area that is recommended to do the re-map?

Thanks all

Regards

Alex

You should ask them to provide you with the fault codes they found then you can look them up in the VAG-Com section on here.

My guess would be you have the 17705 code from what they are saying, this can be all sorts of things, leaking pipes or dodgy N75 valve etc. (do a search on here).

Throttle body will cost you less than a tenner to clean and may help things, can't hurt to try it.

You could get a standard actuator from Skoda/VW or I think Forge do one too.

Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

Standard vRS runs about 10psi, most remaps are about 15-17psi although there are a few on here which run about 20-21psi and don't seem to have blown up yet

Thanks for the reply, yeah I didnt think at the time!!

So the N75 valve controls boost pressure? where is it located? & would it be worth uprating?

It's at the back of the engine, stuck between the DV and the airfilter box. It's a 3-way plug thing and changing it worked for me. Do a search as there's plenty on here about it.

Good luck

Thanks Jiggers will do

Got this of a thread just wondered if I need to know this before I clean my throttle body?

Removed and cleaned the Throttle Body ("reset" with key/ignition/door trick).

Got this of a thread just wondered if I need to know this before I clean my throttle body?

Removed and cleaned the Throttle Body ("reset" with key/ignition/door trick).

How to : Clean your throttle body - uk-mkivs

Thats a good guide there, if you leave the TB plugged in you don't need too reset it

I think that's a bit of a myth. You won't need to reset the throttle if you don't disconnect it. When you take it off leave the electric plug connected. It's still easy to get to the body and give it a good squirt with carb cleaner and work it with a toothbrush

Thank you gentlemen off to halfords in a jiffy let you guys know how it turns out

Kind regards

Alex

Ok cleaned the throttle body, now I could eat my dinner off it!! however the idle feels lumpy now & I still have the same hesitation although under acceleration it does feel smoother lower down the rev range so I think I will replace the N75 valve next so the question is should I go for a standard N75 from Skoda or the Awesome ECS Race N75

Awesome > ECS Race N75 Frequency Valve 1.8T

with either of these will I need a re-map?

Regards

Alex

I would stick with the standard N75.

Changing the N75 to any version, standard or otherwise does not require a remap.

Some people try different N75's after remapping to cure surging or to hold boost for longer but while some cars love H's, J's or the ECS version some actually hate them

You don't need a remap on the car for a specific type of N75 valve, some people that have had remaps find that if they use one of the non-standard versions it helps with surging caused by the remap or how their car responds to the remap.

If the car is standard I would just get a standard replacement N75 valve, or even cheaper, see if you have a local member that will swap theirs for you to try it for half an hour or so and see if that fixes the problem.

was considering a remap I see for not to much cash I can increase the BHP to around 220/230 mark but with 97k on the clock I am a worried about putting that kind of extra strain on the engine

What is the MAF I keep reading about, I am assuming this is the Air flow meter?

Is this still the same setup as a rehostat with a slide controller? as early AF's wore & gave bad idle & flat spots between 3-4k due to where the contacts were used most?

I've also had a strange boost problem today: overtaking in 3rd, seemed a little slow so I put my foot down... NO BOOST. Nothing! I tried accelerating in 3rd and 4th over the next few kilometers, no boost whatsoever, felt like a normally aspirated engine. In fact, since I have a bigger turbo, after 2500rpm I always hear it and it's quite loud, but now there was silence, no wooshing sound. Then I stopped at a light, but didn't turn off the engine. Idled about 2 minutes, then green light and I was off: boost was back as normal, wooshing sounds and all and it remained that way for the next 60 kms, both in town and outside. Any idea what could have prompted that lack of boost and then its recovery (even without turning off the engine)?

Can't have been a boost hose leak otherwise it would probably have carried on doing it, and can't have gone into limp mode because you would have had to clear the limp mode to get it boosting again. It should have stored a fault code so maybe worth having a look at that if you can plug it in to VAG-com or a code reader.

It definitely wasn't limp mode (I had limp mode before and it wouldn't go above 3000rpm, this one went all the way to 5500, but no boost, just linear and slow acceleration). I thought about maybe a collapsed pipe, which then came back to its original form at idle. Will Vag-com it tonight and get back to you...

When mine went into limp mode it revved past 3000 rpm but boost pressure would not go past 5 psi

When mine went into limp mode it revved past 3000 rpm but boost pressure would not go past 5 psi

Same as mine. I could rev the nuts off it, but just wouldn't pass 5psi on the gauge. The car still did 100mph plus, but just took ages to get there!

Key off and on again, and it was back to 10psi again.

The cause in my case was a dirty TB.

Key off and on again, and it was back to 10psi again.

The cause in my case was a dirty TB.

Cleared the code on the go and was back to 20.8 psi

Mine was the MAF on it's way out.

jmf, I think if a pipe collapsed the turbo would still spool but would not get enough air fed into it to produce power. I reckon a fault with the N75 held the wastegate open and the turbo wasn't being driven by the exhaust gasses. I could be totally wrong but I don't think you had limp and I don't think you had a collapsed pipe IMO

What is VAG-COM is this th esoftware they use to read the memory if so how do I get hold of it?

Ordered a new N75 just waiting on delivery.... this is driving me insane..... between 3 & 4000 rpm it's on boost, off boost, on boost, off boost & then on boost but pretty lame to the red line

Yeah its a bit of diagnostic software although its not cheap (£200 iirc?)

http://www.ross-tech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=VAGCOM

If you're only interested in scanning for fault codes then a fault code reader is cheaper:

OBD2 VW Audi SEAT SKODA VAG Fault Code Reader Scanner on eBay, also, Diagnostic Tools Equipment, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 28-Mar-09 21:25:39 GMT)

VAG-COM is more like £100 all in. You can pick up a 409.1 compatible usb interface off eBay for $14 and a license for the 409.1 version of the software is only $99. If you also have to buy a lap top to run it on though it does get a bit more pricey.

The software is available in a limitted form as freeware and worked fine for my old polo and VR^ (relatively smple engines). However, for the more complex 20v T you need the more advanced measurments like boost etc. These measurment blocks are not included in the freeware version.

There are apparently working cracks for the software out there but since Ross-Tech (who made the software) are a small family company then it seems harsh not to pay them for their work (IMO).

If you're planningto hold onto the car for a while (or excpect to have another VAG car after) then it is £100 well spent.

iep

Cleared the code on the go and was back to 20.8 psi

Mine was the MAF on it's way out.

jmf, I think if a pipe collapsed the turbo would still spool but would not get enough air fed into it to produce power. I reckon a fault with the N75 held the wastegate open and the turbo wasn't being driven by the exhaust gasses. I could be totally wrong but I don't think you had limp and I don't think you had a collapsed pipe IMO

The n75 theory certainly is plausible, as there was no turbo sound, i just can't figure why it "fixed itself" after a bit of idling. And it's running fine since then. Anyway, I'm taking the front off Saturday, 'cause the radiator screws on the bottom are all missing :eek: and I'll use the opportunity to check all pipes under the intake.

@jmf Overboost limp would cure itself on the move after a while. What is your peak boost pressure?