Sump Bolt Given Up on vRS

[rum4mo]

Yes well, as I said or implied, using or fitting thread inserts of any type be they simple Helicoil, Teeserts or bigger grippier Keenserts etc, they will only ever be as durable as the quality of work in preparing the hole and fitting them. Personally I hate Helicoils, but they are a very cost/weight efficient way to strengthen threads in aluminium - and they do get used as original fit to a lot of aerospace equipment - any problem with them and you just need to grab them and pull them out followed by fitting a new one - then the fixing hole is as good as new! So, having said that, you should not have seen that Helicoil looking like it was in at an angle - there is the answer as to why the original repair did not prove to be effective!

[giandougl]

Hello,

I believe tightening a steel bolt into an alloy casing must be treated with extreme respect and loads of caution.

My last service was carried out by myself, not a Skoda Main Dealer, (including the oil and filter change), found the copper washer that should be fitted to the sump-plug was missing, and the sump plug was extremely hard to undo. I had to revert to using a socket and 'T' bar to break free.

I used a new washer, but used same bolt and first tightened sump-plug by hand and warily nipped up with a short ring ring spanner.

After filling with new engine oil whilst continually checking for sump oil leakage whilst standing by with clean oil drain can, I started car engine, NO OIL LEAKAGE.

OK I thought engine and casings etc are cold, leave engine tray off, go for quick trip a few mile down the road. Then really gave it some big licks back home and with engine at working temperature , checked NO OIL LEAKAGE. Checked car each and every trip for a week, with still no oil leakage.

So it seems the Skoda Main Dealers mechanic compensated the lack of a copper with an extremely tight sump plug.

Learnt from this experience if you want something done well do-it-yourself.!!

I don't know what 30Nm are but must fall into my short ring spanner category?

Ian. 29/04/2009:thumbup:

[Tom_vRS]

Yep, I'd say that sounds about OK Ian.

[sharkrider]

they told me mine was on its way out at the 70k service..... (the vRS that is, not the fiat )

[skodakid]

I've seen a few threads on other forums claiming VAG sumps are plastic or aluminium. All I know is the 1.9tdi and 1.2 petrol engines I own have steel sumps. The 1.9 Tdi has a plastic shroud over it. I would be surprised at anything other than a steel sump on an engine which has an iron block.

I can see however how a monkey could cross thread and screw up something like a sump bolt. After all, it takes just the slightest bit of care.:really: i.e. Wipe the sump thread taking care not to introduce dirt from outside. Clean the sump bolt, fit a new washer (if you are so inclined) and the sump bolt should screw in by hand easily up to washer contact stage. If there is undue resistance, dont get a socket or spanner on it:rotz:, but remove and check it again. Make sure its not in crossthread! Final tightening should be ideally torque wrench at recommended setting, or just nipped up with a short spanner. Check for leaks after running the engine for several minutes.

If a garage strips or crosses a thread, it really should be their responsibilty for gross negligence.

[rum4mo]

One thing that I know about steel sumps, well as fitted to VX and Ford, the "newer" grey paint that was used by who ever supplied them was crap and often lead to the sumps rusting through, that would lead to the sump becoming porous and dropping oil - only fix was to replace the expensive sump, the inside of the Fiesta 1.1 I needed to replace due to it weeping oil was discoloured on the inside highlighting where the rusting was worst, I cleaned the new grey painted one back to bare metal only by wiping with meths, then painted with Hammerite - a few times. Alternatively, with Fords, a much older "black" sump could safely be used as it would have stood up to the road grit better than the grey painted ones. Plastic covered steel sumps - well PSA used them at one time - and maybe still use them, their problem seemed to be that especially in Northern UK, the plastic got stone chips, water and salt gets in and you end up with a soggy soft lump of rust loosely covered by a plastic cover with a few small holes, this ends up as a leaking sump if you are lucky, if not, after bumping over an unexpectedly deep pothole, total loss of a section of soggy sump and all the oil. This happened to a couple of people I know that had Sierras with the PSA deisel engine - not good!

[Tigger_1979]

If a garage strips or crosses a thread, it really should be their responsibilty for gross negligence.

Clist and Rattle put the Original Helicoil in at 30,000 miles. and I needed a new sump after they did all my services from 30,000 miles to the last one at 90,000 miles.

I think I will use a proper mechanic next service, anyone recommend anyone?