Hi all,

I have a 1999 Felly with the 1.3MPI engine. On Monday it failed the MOT with split boots on both sides. last year I replaced one side with a glue type split gaiter, it didn't last long! Yesterday I decided to do a proper replacement by accesing the driveshaft and removing the CV joint, I have one issue how to release the bottom ball joint so I can move the hub assembly off the CV joint. First I removed the bolt securing the spindle, it was very difficult and when it came out the threads were stripped. I then used a fork type splitter and after lots of bashing it seems the joint has released a little ( I can see about 1/4 inch of the spindle now), however I expected that the wishbone would simply fall downwards away from the joint, no matter how I try to move the wishbone down away from the spindle it doesn't part company. Is it likely the balljoint is still embedded and I am looking at the shiney steel spindle uncovered simply because the rubber has been forced downwards by my splitter tool? Everything else is undone and I am so close to accessing the CV joint to put my new gaiter on!!

I've seen the tutorial about this job on this forum, and I could try the suggestion of tying a steel pipe (or substantial piece of wood) to the wishbone and then standing on it to split the balljoint. The main problem I have here is that any length on the lever means it hits the floor. At present I have the car jacked up with an axle stand under the rear wishbone mount point (at the bush), Maybe my jacking point is not allowing the wishbone to fall down away from the balljoint spindle? Should the wishbone pivot downwards under it's own weight when the balljoint is fully released? I can't see anywhere more suitable to jack the car so I can get it up high to try the lever, any ideas would be appreciated. I've replaced CV boots many times on all types of cars but this one is a little ****!!.

Is it me or is quite difficult to find jacking points on the Felly, other than those on the sill where the scissor jack is intended to go?

try hammering a cold chisel into the 'split' to open up the pinch around the ball joint slightly, also if it has an anti-roll bar release the connecting link on the track control arm to give it a bit more play..

the 'spindle' on the ball joint has a kind of groove (fillet) in it to allow the bolt to kind of go through a portion of it to hold it in place but once the bolt is removed it should come out. you may also need to undo the track rod end (castlated nut and split pin) to get enough lateral movement to get the hub off the end of the shaft or you might be able to do it be leaving the key in the ignition so the steering lock doesn't come on and getting an assistant to 'steer'

as a last resort rather than risking breaking the ball joint you could just undo the bolts that hold the track control arm to the subframe and leave it attached to the hub at the ball joint end

if it's the outer boots/joint that need doing you can do it with the shaft still attached the gearbox, but if it's the inner ones you need to drain the gearbox oil and remove the shaft completely

Tom,

Thanks for your response, it's appreciated. I had in fact already removed the main hub nut, split and disconnected the balljoint on the track rod end and removed the bottom balljoint bolt. Although right now it's all back together again and the car is sitting on my drive until tomorrow afternoon when I finish work early. I was thinking of trying to get it in a garage (highly unusual for me!). It will only take a few minutes to get back to where I was on the job, so I'll try your suggestion of opening up the pinch point and possibly remove the ARB connecting link. It's really annoying to be so close to being able to complete the job, I guess you understand how I feel. I thought the pinchbolt would have a groove in one side, maybe mine had rotated because I can feel the obstruction when I try to insert a smaller bolt. The main issue is that I have to present the car in a fixed state within 10 days or pay again for a full test. As I work all week (lucky to still have a job!) I don't have much time. Never thought about removing the bolts on the other end of the wishbone, just goes to show how focussed your mind can get in these situations!

When I've done the CV boots, the other failure item is a couple of badly corroded brake pipes, I guess that will fun trying to undo the couplings, from experience I'll probably end up destroying some bits.

Anyway once again thanks for your help.

the only thing i will say about removing the track control arm, is that on some (depends on what year it was built) you have to drill a rivet out of the rear mounting shell.. also dont replace the ball joint bolt with any old bolt, iirc it is an unusual size

if you are going to change brake pipes it's definitely worth investing in some proper brake union spanners

Yes, what Teflon Tom said, a small chisel to open up the gap usually works. But don't support under the bush, put the axle stand further back, under the body. If it's under the bush it prevents the arm from swinging downwards and increases your trouble. And yes, it's a special size bolt. You may just be able to swing it with a regular M8 if you file one side of the head down, I think, from memory (I'm not looking at the car as I type this!). Make sure it's a high tensile (8.8) bolt, though.

Oh, and like any job on that area of any car over a couple of years old, make with the Plus Gas before starting work!

But don't support under the bush, put the axle stand further back, under the body.

Yes, there's two obvious ridges underneath the car that will sit nicely in axle stands that have a flat bit on top, with each end curled up (rather than the round ones with a cut out in the middle). I put them directly under the part where you see some metal overlapping other metal on that bit, as I assume that's the strongest part.