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Knocking Solved! At last


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Hey, not posted for a while. Long story short, had knocking going around corners from

day one, 2.7 years ago. Drove me, the Skoda dealers and SUK bonkers. Had a

service the other day

at an independent ( usually main dealers ). They replaced a track rod end.............

Hey presto. No knocking. Car feels fabulous.

Nice to have a happy ending.:)

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**** ? Don`t tell me what that means.Lol. This car is brilliant. My mate who is buying it off

me in 2 months is getting a

real good car. Don`t want it to go but I need more room for a disabled Grandaughter plus I

have a speed awareness course next month to attend. Too many coppers hiding in bushes

with radar, so i`m getting a Citroen Berlingo Multispace in August. Coo er missus.:)

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The Fabia and knocks is terrible really,

I've had two that have had various knocks over the last 3 years. My current vRS is knock free on the front at the minute but I went over speed bump at 25 the other day, didn't know the road and it was unmarked!

Now I'm just waiting for a knock to start.. I got a small creak as I went over but nothing since...Just had new console bushes fitted so probably took 10k out of them in one fowl swoop.. bum!

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I bought my wife a Fiesta Ghia 1.1 once and from 3 months old (usual ex Channel Islands fleet Ford sales scam), the front O/S wheel "knocked if you thumped it - Ford could not find any thing wrong (even although these cars didn't carried any Ford warranty), after a year had passed I got fed up and replaced the track rods and track rod ends on both sides - knocking disappeared, I reckon that it was just a "lightly" assembled rack assembly - maybe not "bad" enough to be called a fail! Maybe that was roughly what the problem was with your car, ie not perfect, but not bad enough to be called faulty.

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I had a knock and found a broken coil spring and a knackered control arm bush, not too stressed as my car has over 100k on.

Two new springs and two control arm bushes fitted and now knock free.

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how hard is a track rod end to replace diy?

It should be a piece of cake - or might end up as a piece of cack! Just try to measure the visible threaded portion of the track rod so that you can return the linkage to that point. In my case, I'm up North so lots of salt on road, removing the track rod end was the hardest part of changing a broken road spring! Buy a new nyloc nut as well as the TRE. VAG thoughfully provided a Torx or Allen key recess at the top of the TRE so that you can stop it moving in the taper. In my case this did not work, before hand I had wire brushed this area and applied lots of release oil. The problem seems to be that the exposed TRE thread above the nyloc nut rots very badly (crap CZ steel) and the plastic locking element in the nyloc nut hardens up with age - so the nyloc nut starts to slacken (good) then grips on the rusted thread it is being driven into (bad), this unlocks the TRE from the hub arm taper (how annoying), next you fit a Torx/Allen key into the end of the TRE to stop it turning - wrong, once again the crappy CZ steel lets you down and just bells/swells out and the TRE rotates. Of course if you have nut splitters to hand and a few hacksaw blades you will get round this - but it just, for me, made a five minute easy job into a wasted half hour!

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